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Princelake
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# Posted: 3 Oct 2018 07:36pm
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That looks decent! I'll keep measurements and flip things around. I have a couple buddies that works at an engineering firm and all itll take is a phone call. I can also order just one truss and copy it lol.
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Princelake
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2018 09:19pm
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So I reworked my plan a bit.
Moved the plumbing in the bath and added a small window
Moved location of wood stove(could also go in the corner for more room when you walk in)
I widen out the table area a bit. I measured my breakfast nook and 7' outside works out perfect. Also took out couple windows.
I increased the size of the master by bumping out out that wall to and now allowing room for closets.
With just standard trusses I can run a beam between and the nook and the master so have an over hang area to sit and bbq when it's raining.
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rockies
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2018 09:49pm
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An improvement but until you draw in wall thicknesses you'll never know how your clearances around furniture will work (one foot between the sofa and coffee table isn't enough).
I suggest buying some 1/8" graph paper and allowing 6" for the wall thickness to double-check your layout.
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rockies
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2018 06:27pm - Edited by: rockies
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In looking at your revised plan I take it you are going to run a beam across the deck between the dining nook bumpout and the bedroom in order to support the ends of your 20' trusses? In your first message you mentioned that they were "garage" trusses. How do they differ from house trusses (or do they)? Are they engineered for your local snow loads?
As to the layout, you'll need to widen the bathroom by one foot. I would move the wood stove 2 feet towards the guest bedroom and give yourself more clearance by the back door. I would build a one foot deep recess into the wall between the living room and bedrooms that is just big enough to house the TV and related equipment to get it out of the traffic zone around the sofa.
For safety reasons the kitchen needs to be reworked. Put the fridge where the stove is, move the stove to the exterior wall one foot to the right of where the sink is now and then slide the sink closer to the dining nook. Extend the dining bench to meet the side of the cabinet that will be on the left of the sink.
That's about it.
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Princelake
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2018 06:54pm
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Yes that was my idea with a beam instead of modifying the trusses and they are engineered and will meet snow load requirements and will make the bedroom larger.
What's your reasoning for widening the bathroom? I'll only have Have a small phone booth shower and small vanity for hand washing.
Moving the wood stove around is no big deal. I mentioned I can put it in the corner to. I have it over there so it's in a wide open area and safe.
I can inset the TV and steal some closet space.
Maybe the stove would be better on an exterior wall if I add a range hood.
In my trailer the dining bench seats are 4' wide fits 4 normal size ppl
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rockies
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2018 08:12pm
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Your bathroom is shown as being 4' wide. I'm guessing that is what you want your interior dimension to be (drywall to drywall) with a bathroom door that is 24" wide?
I would recommend a bathroom door that is at least 28" wide. By the time you add in the exterior and interior wall thickness (about 4 1/2" each) and the necessary framing around the door you won't have very much space left for a vanity. You might as well move the bathroom wall further over or your room might only be 3'3" wide from drywall to drywall.
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Princelake
Member
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2018 09:10pm
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The cheap stand up showers are 36" wide at the most and going with a "euro" style vanity which stick out 12-16" I figured I'd have enough room to wall by. I wanted least possible room wasted with a bathroom.
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Borrego
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2018 09:45pm
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Those plastic shower kits leak. Every one of them, eventually.....build one yourself and sacrifice a foot or two.
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