|
| Author |
Message |
kittysmitty
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Sep 2018 07:48am - Edited by: kittysmitty
Reply
I thought I would share some pictures of my cabin post foundation repairs. The cabin is about 14 years old and I noticed over time the cabin was twisting on the posts and the concrete was breaking down.
20170527_081408_resi.jpg
| 
20170603_081548_resi.jpg
| 
20180415_132203_resi.jpg
| 
20180909_145605_resi.jpg
|
|
|
kittysmitty
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Sep 2018 07:53am - Edited by: kittysmitty
Reply
It's 20 x24 and sits on 12 posts. There was a lot of discussion and research as to the best way to repair,time/effort/cost. In the end I used concrete parking curbs to build cribs. There are not all done yet but in progress. Just thought I would share
20180318_085640_resi.jpg
| 
20180909_145556_resi.jpg
| 
20180318_085658_resi.jpg
|  |
|
|
Borrego
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Sep 2018 06:25pm
Reply
Well that's clever and a bit unorthodox....
Did you jack up the structure to do this?
I would want to have a better post - beam connection to prevent the cabin from sliding around in the event of earth movement.....
|
|
kittysmitty
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Sep 2018 07:25pm
Reply
Yes, the structure was jacked up and leveled. Please expand on "earth movement"
|
|
Dekagoldwingers
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Sep 2018 07:58pm
Reply
Earth can move due to water action. If the soil becomes very saturated, it expands then contracts with drying. Also if you are in a freezing location then water in the soil becomes ice and the soil expands greatly! It looks to me that your original posts suffered water damage perhaps due to freezing and perhaps a poor quality concrete. I was advised by a building inspector friend that if using bagged premix to add a cup or 2 of cement powder to the batch to increase the strength. I suggest that you look at your drainage to make sure water does not pool around the concrete or build up under it to bring the problem back. Good luck
|
|
Wilbour
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Sep 2018 12:42am
Reply
I was on 4 concrete posts that heaved and tilted sideways. Lots of clay that stays saturated well into the summer.
I now have 2ftx2ftx2inch slabs. On that I have cinderblocks. Each winter the earth moves up and down so after it dries out in the summer I jack the corner up and build up the lower parts with more crushed stone and replace the pad and block.
A big pain in the butt, but doesn't take more than a couple of hours. Keep in mind I am 10x15 and only have 4 contact points to level out.
Hate it but with so much clay and moisture there is little I can do. I can trench all I want but the clay just holds the moisture until it dries out.
|
|
Dekagoldwingers
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Sep 2018 11:35am
Reply
The solution usually is to dig down below the frost line in your area and build a footing approx 2’ square to support your posts. In my area the frost line is 4’ down. The footing should contain rebar which connects to the post coming up from it. The cardboard forms work well for the posts. See my note about adding cement powder to premix. Then it would help you to backfill around the post with drain rock or whatever material you can find that will allow drainage away from the post. It would also be beneficial to connect drain tile or a French drain to each post hole to drain away excess water. I will attach a picture of a commercially available footing form which will work. You can also find “mobile home pads†which are designed to support these loads and connect to posts. If you are constructed on well drained gravel then the footing is not so important.
|
|
Dekagoldwingers
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Sep 2018 11:47am
Reply
This is a post footing form. It is designed to have a cardboard form placed on top. You should have reinforcing steel bent into “L’s†inside and projecting up into the form tube. The unit is about 30†wide and tall.
|
|
|
Dekagoldwingers
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Sep 2018 11:53am
Reply
Sorry the picture shows inverted. Look for Bigfoot Systems online.
|
|
kittysmitty
Member
|
# Posted: 3 Oct 2018 04:01pm
Reply
Yes, I'm aware of Bigfoot Systems, but somewhat late for those now. Next to impossible to dig in the center of the building. This was a "repair" not new construction.
|
|
North1966
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Oct 2018 09:06pm
Reply
Hello, I am new to the site but I have just finished the foundation and floor hoist. Please any feed back would be greatly appreciated as I have never done anything like this.
|
|
North1966
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Oct 2018 09:21pm
Reply
Here are the pics.
|
|
North1966
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Oct 2018 10:29pm - Edited by: North1966
Reply
Last one.
|
|
North1966
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Oct 2018 10:41pm
Reply
The cabin is 16 x 24, I have 9 blocks with a 12' span and I am using 2x10 for joust.
|
|
Wilbour
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Oct 2018 11:20pm
Reply
Because I am getting too old to rotate my head
|
|
North1966
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Oct 2018 11:31pm
Reply
Thank you
|
|
njdave
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2021 11:34am
Reply
I will be replacing four rear piers under my existing 24 x 24 one floor cabin. Just those piers are leaning due to water coming off the roof and entering the ground many years. The old look to be 8 x 12 block, most likely with poured concrete inside.
I will use Bigfoot Systems as replacements. I guess to use 28" base with 12" plastic tubes with rebars inside. Plastic tubes to repel frost. I will go 4 feet down below frostline and expect to hit bedrock at 3 1/2'.
Question: Will the 12" Bigfoot tubes and 28" base be large enough, and has anyone replaced with Bigfoot like this? I hear clean 3/8 to 1/2 crushed stone backfill around piers helps to repel frost also. Can anyone not an armchair expert give me an experienced answer?
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2021 03:12pm
Reply
Post pictures of the current piers please.
But generaly the smooth side of a vibrated sono tube shouldnt really move if pit below the frost line. If you have ledge rock at 3.5ft I would just pour ontop of that an epoxy in a few rebar pieces.
|
|
|
