|
| Author |
Message |
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 30 Aug 2018 03:16am
Reply
Hi.
I've read that nails are preferred for framing due to their flexibility over screws. I wonder though, is it alright to screw walls to the floor, screw the different walls together etc., while the actual walls etc would still be nailed?
The reason I want to do this is that I may need to move the cabin in around 5 years, so it would be great to disassemble and move the thing in wall-sized pieces, instead of having to move the entire building (which wouldn't fit through the road I have here anyway).
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 30 Aug 2018 08:38am - Edited by: Steve_S
Reply
Well what you plan on, if I read it right should be fine.
Framing is typically done with smooth 3-1/2" nails which will allow a little give during assembly and when the wood contracts & expands, not to mention the inevitable settling and shifting that happens with all builds.
Screws offer no give so the head will pull into the wood or rip out, they can also shear off (rarely). There is a significant difference between structural screws versus just your typical #8 Woodscrew and where & when to use them.
Build your walls, floors as "Modules / Panels" and make sure you have good "screw blocks" in the key areas. Build them with standard nails BUT because this will be disassembled etc, glue the panels... IE: Build walls as 24 o.c., 8' or 10' (max) panels & glue + nail sheathing to the framing, use a firestop @ 48" height.
Floors can be modular 10x10 with screw blocks where you connect them together & where the walls will connect. Better to use 2x8 framing & 3/4" T&G floor sheathing (glued & nailed to frame). When connecting floor structures use 3/4" Galvanised Carriage Bolts with washers.
Connecting walls to Floor Base again is best done with Carriage Bolts & washers, make sure you have a good cross block underneath to go through.
Load Bearing Points: Depending on size etc, you will have different load bearing points that will need to be connected & reinforced to support "modularity" for assembly & disassembly. Wherever you have load bearing points connecting, you should gusset brace the corners & put in backing for screws. These connections should be done with Structural Screws URL
Do put a sill gasket between the floor base & wall but be aware of which sealant (if any) you use as it can be a huge PITA if trying to take it apart....
Depending on size, roof can also be modular BUT putting that up new is not hard, working with it afterwards is another story. IF 2x6, 24o.c., 8' x8' and sheathed they weight will be about 120 LBS of awkward and that's without insulation or anything else.
Wiring / Plumbing ! There are two ways to do that, you can put in "Junction" boxes between panels (these can be plugs but one cable has to go through a conduit to pass between modules to the next plug), plumbing can have a variety of "disconnects" such as Fernco Adapters for DWV, brass couplers or quick connects for plumbing (PEX is better to work with). With this in mind, it is best to situate key modules together, for example the kitchen & washroom module with the water heater & electric panel in one module, that way your only extending out as needed.
BTW: I spent 2 years working @ a Modular Home Factory and just some tips... I was working here @ http://guildcrest.com/
I hope this is helpful, it just takes some planning and pre-thinking about how you will assemble & disassemble the build... Many things like how to access the screws & retainers once built & finished (leaving portholes / trap doors / panels) but if well thought out and built with care it can work well. BTW, I check in here only occasionally now as Cabineering has me pretty busy at this time sawin lumber & swinging hammer (while being told off by my chipmunks).
|
|
Cowracer
Member
|
# Posted: 30 Aug 2018 09:15am
Reply
What about using double-headed nails at the "take-apart" points. All the benefits of using nails, and easy removal. I'll tell you this... After sitting in wood for 5 years, you will be cussing the screws. You will probably strip out half of the heads trying to get them out.
Tim
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 30 Aug 2018 01:57pm
Reply
Steve_S, thank you for the lengthy advice. Most appreciated!
Cowracer, did not even know about those. I'll look into if they have them in my area. Thanks!
|
|
Borrego
Member
|
# Posted: 31 Aug 2018 10:42am
Reply
You could also build it with nails and then fasten the walls together with 'L' brackets or straps of some sort......? I think that would make it easier to disassemble when the time came.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 31 Aug 2018 02:37pm - Edited by: ICC
Reply
The double headed nails are known as scaffolding nails. That harks back to the days when we built needed scaffolding on site and then reused the lumber. The double heads make it very easy to dismantle
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 1 Sep 2018 05:28pm
Reply
ICC, my neck of the woods, they call them dunplex nails. 
OK, OP, I think screws is no good, ie shear, while nails are the shizzle. 
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Sep 2018 01:23am
Reply
Appreciate all the suggestions. I think the double headed nails sound the best; I'll look into if they have them locally.
|
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 2 Sep 2018 09:19pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
I have some buddies who pre fabbed a 16X16 hunting cabin. They did use 2X3's and trimmed them down to 7 feet walls, ie 80 5/8". The walls were each 2 sections 8 feet long, 7 feet high. They screwed together the corners, all panels fit on the deck of a car trailer. They put it up each year, take it back down. They screwed the corners together. Electrical just had a plug pigtail that would plug into a corner outlet and this would keep the circuit complete.
|
|
|
