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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 8 Jul 2018 07:16pm
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Hello all! I am in the process of making a 14x10 redneck bunkie at my cabin. I framed it using logs from trees i cut down, including rafters. It is a single slope roof. The bunkie is entirely sided with pallet boards and i did the roof sheating the same. I used 2x8 pressure treat for the floir and tongue and groove plywood on top of it. I am doing a steel roof on top. My question is, when using steel, do you recommend putting tar paper or similar over the sheating, or am i ok to just put the steel on top? Thanks in advamce for any advice!
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 8 Jul 2018 07:37pm
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I am hoping to do the entire building for under a thousand dollars. The floir with joists was $524 and the steel is $300. Aside from nails, the cost is in the labour from dismantling pallets. I wrapped the framing wiith a heavy plastic vapour barrier then put the ballet boards over that. I scored 4 large windows that are 40"x70" free from my brother in law. I will build my own door. I have no intentions of insulating it as the latest it will be used is thanksgiving (Canadian) so october. I will build my own door. Inside i plan on using the beds from my pop up trailer. Queen one side, double the other but i may make the double a murphy bed so it can fold out of the way when not needed. I will decomission the trailer when done. Lots of work to dismantle the pallets but we are loving the random boatds and colours. Kind of did it random like hardwood flooring.
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Borrego
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# Posted: 8 Jul 2018 09:47pm
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Tar paper - Yes.....never know when you'll get a pinhole in the metal, or a leak through a screw....thicker the better....
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 01:24pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: skootamattaschmidty My question is, when using steel, do you recommend putting tar paper or similar over the sheating, or am i ok to just put the steel on top? Thanks in advance for any advice!
The mfg of my metal roofing said you use 30# felt underlayment on top or sheeting. Layer it to shed water. It can condense under it and the chutes will help it breath and keep sweat to a minimum.
So my answer is, YES, absolutely and use 30# not 15#
Oh, and never use those screws that have the self tapping cutting type tip, a metal screw with a very sharp point is what you want and get long enough and fat screws. You want the screw to go all the way through the plywood substrate and extend out. Follow mfg specs on screws too, make sure they go in straight and just squish the washer slightly is all.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 07:16pm
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Thanks for the feedback! I figured as much and was planning on putting tar paper down but my wife asked if i really needed to so i said i would confirm with you fine folks! Its nice to have reinforcement on my plans and know im doing things right. Thanks again!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2018 03:43pm
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One step up would be the waterproof membrane. seals around screws, even if they work lose over time. Little more $$$
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skootamattaschmidty
Member
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2018 05:26pm
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Yah i was thinking about that. We had that put on our home when it was reshingled a couple years ago.
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Fanman
Member
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2018 07:18pm
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Red rosin paper is often used rather than tar paper (felt) when the metal is going directly on the underlayment.
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 10 Jul 2018 10:22pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech One step up would be the waterproof membrane. seals around screws, even if they work lose over time.
hadn't thought of this, but yes....the more waterproofing the better. Remember....water is the enemy...always.
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