Small Cabin

# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 01:44pm
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**** I have no idea why that picture is sideways!

Borrego
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# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 01:52pm
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You need a piece of 'L' (1x6) flashing under the ply, that's all...if you want to put some sealant on the bottom of the L, that would be ok, but not necessary.....

# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 06:55pm
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You used 8 foot siding, maybe go longer. Siding comes in many length. Extend it past the concrete a few inches, then maybe a membrane or something to tack to backside of siding that overlaps concrete. The can keep water out, and siding from contacting cement (rot)

ICC
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# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 09:40pm - Edited by: ICC
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The drawing shows what I interpret to be plywood sheathing. Or is the plywood on the drawing the finished siding?

If built already, if you can still pry the lower edge loose and insert a z-strip, that is best. Tapes, caulks can fail. If that plywood is the finished skin then I'd use a highest quality caulk.

If not built already notr that you can use a layer of foam under the sill. Look for sill gasket as well as the z-strip under the lower panel edge.

And yes many 4 foot wide panels are available in 9 or 10 foot lengths which permit overlapping the foundation.

Borrego
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# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 09:52pm
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The 'L' flashing should go at the bottom, where the siding will meet the concrete.... Z-Bar, like ICC is talking about, would go between the two sheets of siding at the 8 ft line....

# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 10:21pm
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Not sure I'm explaining this properly. The above diagram is already built. I am going to add tin siding in the next few weeks. The tin siding will overlap the concrete about 2".

So can I just caulk the small gap between the plywood and the concrete or a wider (perhaps 6") membrane, such as blue skin all the way around?

# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 11:01pm
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Darren, from the last explanation, do you need to even caulk it? If the metal is going on, and it will overlap it enough onto the concrete, then should be OK???. You can get foam blocking for your metal profile. I would do it. It sticks to the metal. Do this where it fastens at the bottom, probably the sill plate. This will allow it to breath, water to drain out if sweat builds up (and it can) and keep bees out. You will need a barrier between the metal and the wall sheeting. Can you run that barrier long at the bottom. Then with metal added with foam blocking, trim excess barrier off.

# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 11:10pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech

You will need a barrier between the metal and the wall sheeting. Can you run that barrier long at the bottom. Then with metal added with foam blocking, trim excess barrier off.

I have Typar on the plywood, and it hangs down a little beyond the concrete, as well.

Not sure what you mean by foam blocking though.

# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 11:19pm
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When you buy your metal for the siding, ask seller. There is a foam block that fits the profile and sticks to the underside of the metal. I assume the metal will look like roofing with breather channels? Those channels are open at the top and bottom. They make a foam that is pre cut to that profile, comes in 4 foot or 3 foot strips, sticks onto the metal.
See: https://www.lowes.com/pl/Roof-panel-closure-strips-Roof-panels-accessories-Roofing-Bu ilding-supplies/4294806360

# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 11:22pm
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This video probably sums it up best.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PWVgJusdoM

Get the right one for your profile.

# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 11:31pm
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Ya, I used that on the roof. Didn't know what it was called.

Won't that block moisture and air though?

# Posted: 8 Jul 2018 05:50am
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The sill gasket and termite flashing go on before erecting the wall.

sillplate.jpg

# Posted: 8 Jul 2018 05:58am - Edited by: DaveBell
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See if you can fit a shallow (1x1) flashing under the wall. If so, Use an exterior caulk and caulk the gap and push the flashing into the caulk. You will have air seal and termite barrier. If not, caulk the air gap and nail the flashing on the sill so that it bends outward.

Is the sill plate PT or plain 2x6?

# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 07:17pm
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Quoting: DaveBell

Is the sill plate PT or plain 2x6?

Sill plate is plain 2x6.

# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 07:38pm
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Say hello to the round headed wood borer.

# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 07:40pm
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There may be a brush on wood protector you could apply to the sill plate and any other exposed wood.

# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 08:16pm
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Quoting: DaveBell

Say hello to the round headed wood borer.

I'm north of 60, so termites aren't a major issue here. I'll look into that wood protector though. Thanks.

Borrego
Member

# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 09:36pm
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Termites aren't the only issue..you need to get some protection in there. You can drill holes and inject PT type chemicals. If you don't do this you can expect problems...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmrsRNdypWY