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darren
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2018 03:07pm
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Hey everyone,
Got a few questions regarding strapping a cabin with 1x4s in preparation for vertical galvanized tin.
Cabin is 16x20 in a very dry area, so moisture is not a major issue at all. Plus, it's SUPER windy, so everything is dried right out.
1) Does the strapping have to go right into the studs?
2) If the cabin is 15' at its highest, what spacing should I use for the horizontal strapping?
3) Nails or screws? Length of?
4) At the bottom where I'll install the flashing, does it go over or under the strapping?
5) At the bottom where the plywood and concrete meet, should I overlap the 1x4 onto the concrete or keep it level with the plywood?
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Borrego
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2018 05:39pm
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I assume you mean 'furring strips' or purlins of a sort....? Like on metal roofs? They're not really absolutely necessary when doing siding.... they used to back in the good ole days, but not any more.......
Why not just install plywood on the whole building (particularly since its so small), wrap with paper, and put the tin right on that? Whenever I do a siding job, I put ply on first, stronger and makes siding install easier....
Faster, easier and probably cheaper....
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2018 09:37pm
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I believe the only reason to apply furring strips and then apply siding of any kind is if you are also FIRST installing a layer of external wall insulation. Otherwise build the exterior walls with osb or plywood panels like normal , apply the weather resistant layer like Borrego says, and then fasten the metal siding.
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old243
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2018 08:50am
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The plywood sheathing, is likely the way to go. Another disadvantage of strapping. It would make an ideal spot for critters to live, nice dry spot, almost impossible to seal up. Good luck old 243
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ColdFlame
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2018 12:37pm
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We just had our cabin metal sided with corrugated metal - they went onto the existing sheathing (OSB) without any furring strips. There was house wrap over the sheathing as well. There is opportunity for plenty of air movement in the corrugations if it were necessary.
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rockies
Member
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2018 07:42pm
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Corrugated metal siding creates a natural ventilation space behind it so furring strips aren't necessary but your siding may be more "flat". Are there any ridges in your siding?
The other thing with vertical siding is that the furring strips are usually mounted horizontally, which may cause rain water to get trapped on the "shelves" created by the furring strips.
As to the top, you'll have to install a metal "C" channel on it's side (so it looks like an "n") and tuck the siding up into it to finish off the top edge. As to the bottom, attach a piece of metal "Z" flashing to the wall sheathing and have the siding come down to within about 1/2" of the slope.
Depending on the thickness of your siding, bear in mind that it will expand and contract in the heat so don't screw it down super tight. Check with the manufacturer to see how best to handle that.
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cspot
Member
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2018 09:39pm
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Also I would use screws not nails. If you put up plywood make sure to get screws that are made for it. They are different than the ones for purlins.
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darren
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2018 02:42pm
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Thanks all for this info✌ðŸ½
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KinAlberta
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jul 2018 11:37am - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Question:
I embrace hot days as they aren’t overly present here in Alberta but it can be a big problem in some parts of the world. So could furing be used to create a channels to carry heat up and out rather than letting it move right into the wall and then into the structure? (Like a heat shield behind a stove).
Long continuous horizontal furing would trap heat but maybe a lot of breaks or a different pattern would create vertical channels while still doing the job.
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jul 2018 01:17pm
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Quoting: KinAlberta So could furing be used to create a channels to carry heat up and out rather than letting it move right into the wall and then into the structure?
Theoretically it would do something, albeit minimal, to allow heat to escape. But you would want to run the purlins vertically then....and it would create more problems than it would solve. Water intrusion, critter and bug nesting etc....
Better to add an extra layer of insulation if that is the concern.
Our cabin is in the desert and heat is a huge concern, but mostly coming from above, not so much through the walls, in my experience. Except the west wall.. 
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razmichael
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# Posted: 5 Jul 2018 01:36pm
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Don't know about the US but Canadian code requires rain-screen in some parts of the country (coastal regions in BC for example). lots of links to it such as Rain Screen - not a specific link to details just a summary. I did a rain-screen on my cabin (in Quebec), including bug screening. Likely added about 1/2 day to the install of the wood siding I used. There is some evidence that it will help with both the cooling and heating but I do not know how much in reality - and my main aim was the drying impact. Although you can get material designed to do the job of furing and bug screen, it is costly so I stuck with wood furing )vertical naturally) and use roof venting material with bug screen to seal the bottom and tops. Likely would not have bothered with this if the cabin was bigger but at 16x24, it was not a big task.
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