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Srollins
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 07:07am
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Question gang, is it really nessesary to use T&G boards on a roof when achieving the exposed look inside? I have a guy selling standard square edge for almost half the price.
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Gary O
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 08:53am
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I wondered the same thing, especially after seeing the price of T&G or carboards.
However, when using (say) 2x6s, you best hand select them.
after building the A frame, I built the rest of the cabins and shop with 2x6s
not only the exposed look, but strength
the shop ceiling during the build;
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deercula
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 08:58am
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Depending on humidity, you may get gaps. I have T&G that expands and contracts approximately 3/16" with the humidity changes from summer to winter here in NY.
Previous thread:. http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_7969_0.html#msg113608
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 10:07am
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Yeah, that's the things, the shrinkage will give you gaps......I wouldn't use anything other than T&G... Or if you're on a budget and really want that look, you can use T-111, upside down.....works really well especially outside on porches...
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 11:59am
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T&G and if the T&G is to be stained you may want to stain before installation. Reason being if you stain after installation and then if the wood shrinks you can end up with unstained wood showing in the gap.
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Cowracer
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 12:11pm
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The problem is not so much gaps. Its when one board tends to warp "in" between the rafters, and the board just above or below it tends to warp "out".
That'll stand out like a dead nun in a snowbank, and you'll be hating it when it happens.
Tim
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ColdFlame
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 02:05pm
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You could just channel a "lap" into the 2x6's... just make sure you stain/finish the boards before install.
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Srollins
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 06:55pm
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Thanks all T&G it is!
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Fanman
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jun 2018 07:35pm
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If cost is a concern... I used T1-11 siding for the roof in part of my cabin, with the rough side in. The light color of the T1-II against the dark stained rafters looks quite nice.
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Gary O
Member
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# Posted: 28 Jun 2018 08:38am
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Quoting: deercula Depending on humidity, you may get gaps
Guess it's too dry here
Good point
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socceronly
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jul 2018 12:08am
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Not sure if this is a stupid question... but....
That T&G is used as the roof deck as well? I thought it was just an interior finish.
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Eddy G
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jul 2018 06:20am
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You could just cut in your own T&G. The siding on our cabin is 7/8 rough saw pine boards at random widths.
I couldn't get anyone around here to make it with the T&G
It's actually a double layer! The under layer is horizontal and the outside is vertical. I don't know why it was done that way, seems like a lot of overkill.
Anyway I've been removing and replacing windows so when I replace the siding I run the boards down the table saw a few times and use a chisel to clean out the 1/4" groove...
I know they make router bits for this too...
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jul 2018 10:40am
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^^^
yes you could get a Dado for your table saw and make your own shiplap
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Srollins
Member
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2018 12:32pm
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Hello all,
Picking up my T&G today for the cabin.
question#1 I wont be able to install for about 4 weeks or so, will the wood be ok stored in my garage strapped with ratchet straps for that long?
question #2 when installing the roof is 34' wide rafters every 16" can I run a bunch of 12' boards straight up breaking on the same rafter or do I need to stagger my breaks like you would on hardwood floor?
Thanks,
Scott
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2018 01:00pm
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I have always seen staggering with 4x8 plywood on a roof as a good practice for added system strength. So with boards it's probably even more important.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2018 03:12pm
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definitely stagger them
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Srollins
Member
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2018 07:51pm
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Thank you all
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old243
Member
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# Posted: 8 Aug 2018 08:52am
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Srollins , you mention storing it in your garage . If you can it would be better in the cabin , so it will acclimatize to the moisture content of the cabin. sticker , layers . After a month, the moisture content should be close to the cabin moisture content . This might minimize shrinkage, and movement. I doubt that binding the bundle , will have much affect on movement. Boards while drying will move , probably better to let them, so you can identify , warped boards. You also , did not mention if the wood had been kiln dried , or higher in moisture. Just my 2 cents worth. old 243
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