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paulz
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# Posted: 20 May 2018 09:11am
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I'm going to build a shed to use up left over materials. The space is confined, the max I can go is 7x15. Other than needing flooring, siding and roof ply in odd sizes, is there any other reason to avoid odd numbers?
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 20 May 2018 11:27am
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More labour, more fiddling with fitting things up. 8x14 would simplify much and keep same space. If your just using left overs and it all fits or could be made to fit, saving you from buying more... the savings of not having to buy material is good and the extra work pays off there by leaving no waste. Waste is money thrown out the door.
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 20 May 2018 11:54am
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If you switch to metric it may not be odd anymore. Problem solved. 
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 20 May 2018 12:04pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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I'm with Steve, 8X14, or you will have lots of wasted sheeting material and slows down built the other way. I like multiples of 4, but even numbers is second best option, ie multiples of 2 feet etc.
Hey, is a 2X4 (1.5 X 3.5) industry standard worldwide? I think it is or do they use metric lumber in some places?
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 20 May 2018 12:10pm
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If dealing with odd distances certainly centres, would still be 12â€, 16â€, 24â€, right?
But is there a standard practice for filling in any remainders? (Say a 30†space) I’d expect they’d either automatically fall fall at the ‘back’ or furthest ‘away’ ‘side’ from the starting point. I’d guess that would often be from the door, from the front, the most visible point...). If planning for this though where’s the best place?
Having say a 10†centre on a joist nearest the door would add a bit more strength at the point of maximum use. Same with studs. A short stud spacing nearest the door might add more strength near a weaker point if a wall. Conversely in laying sheathing I would expect full sheets are most desirable around the ‘front door’ for maximum strength (shear-wall, etc).
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 20 May 2018 12:13pm - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech Hey, is a 2X4 (1.5 X 3.5) industry standard worldwide? I think it is or do they use metric lumber in some places?
1.5†shows that you’re already working with odd lumber.
Convert 1.5†to cm and you’re at 3.8 cm. There you go. Back to even.
I was dealing with the 2â€x_†is less just yesterday. I wish meant 2â€x4†actually meant 2â€x4â€. Cut the rough lumber slightly bigger.
That said where can I buy rough 2x4s etc
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paulz
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# Posted: 20 May 2018 01:05pm
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Thanks guys. Here is the hillside area I have been leveling. My leftover PT girders are a couple inches short of 16' unfortunately. The test joists boards in the photo are 8', putting them almost into the hillside and tight against that tree on the other side. I could notch the hill a bit more, wouldn't be easy building on either side of the shed nor getting around it but I guess it would be worth it in the long run. Once it's built shouldn't be much reason to go around it.
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drb777
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# Posted: 21 May 2018 09:46am - Edited by: drb777
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech Hey, is a 2X4 (1.5 X 3.5) industry standard worldwide? I think it is or do they use metric lumber in some places?
My cabin, built in Finland, is all metric lumber. Since Luomann does everything from forest-to-shipping container themselves, metric was their choice design, but must be the norm in at least the Baltic region.
Many components are close, but not quite the same as 2X4 or 2X6. This didn't really seem to effect anything since they make virtually all of the components (except shingles & hardware).
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cspot
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# Posted: 21 May 2018 09:29pm
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Around me 14' lumber isn't very common. Yes you will have some waste but 7'x15' won't be that bad. With that size you need every square inch that you can get. Actually with the roof you could put small overhangs so that you would have no waste on the roof.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 21 May 2018 11:51pm
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Quoting: paulz I'm going to build a shed to use up left over materials. The space is confined, the max I can go is 7x15. Other than needing flooring, siding and roof ply in odd sizes, is there any other reason to avoid odd numbers?
I find I'm cutting a little off of stuff anyways. Eight foot lumber isn't always 8', around here at least. 8' 1/4"; 8' 1/8"; it seems to be slightly off and I have to trim it. Also, if you are putting a rim joist around it and expect 8' sheeting to fit, you are going to have to trim 3" off. So, not much savings in labor.
At 7x15 you are only wasting a foot of material. Don't worry about it and have a fire at the end of the build.
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paulz
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# Posted: 22 May 2018 11:05am
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Thanks guys. Well I started trying to dig more off the hill yesterday to widen the footprint and promptly broke my pick handle. Back to other projects for a few days..
If I can get out to 8' comfortably I will, otherwise 7 will have to do.
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paulz
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# Posted: 11 Jun 2018 03:31pm
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Well I dug more hill away and got 8' wide, though I should do more. Question: my joists are not PT, I remember talk about coating with old motor oil or deisel for rot protection, is that ok and or beneficial?
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Fanman
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# Posted: 19 Jun 2018 02:50pm
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One thing you gotta watch, digging into the hillside, is leaving plenty of clearance between the dirt and the uphill wall, and keeping it clear. I've seen a lot of cabins in my area, often when an addition was built on the uphill side and the hillside cut out for it, where leaves and debris accumulate against the wall and rot it out.
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snobdds
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# Posted: 19 Jun 2018 02:58pm
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Quoting: paulz Well I dug more hill away and got 8' wide, though I should do more. Question: my joists are not PT, I remember talk about coating with old motor oil or deisel for rot protection, is that ok and or beneficial?
Yes, Use a 60/40 mix of new engine oil to diesel fuel. You can use old motor oil, but the new stuff leaves a nice look and it doesn't turn everything black. .
Best weatherproofing I know of next to straight creosote or copper cote, which are both banned now.
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paulz
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# Posted: 22 Jun 2018 07:00pm
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Just noticed the last two replies, thanks. Good point on keeping the uphill wall clear of dirt and debris, I keep chipping away at the hillside when I have pick and shovel energy. Also the oil/diesel preservative sounds good.
Today I bought the lumber for the walls and rafters. Couple questions:
I did 12' wals on my cabin and milled my own siding but this 8x14 will be more standard. I got this off the 'net:
Wall studs are dimensional boards, precut for framing walls. An 8-foot stud is 92 and 5/8 inches long, which is more than 3 inches short of 8 feet, but the standard interior wall also consists of a floor plate, which is 1 ½ inches high, and two ceiling plates that add an additional 3 inches to the wall height.
Seems to me a floor plate and two ceiling plates would add 4.5", not three to the stud, making it over 8'. Is the extra to accommodate flooring and ceiling, so 8' drywall still fits?
I'm calling this a shed but if it doesn't get too filled up with junk I may put a bed in there and use it for guests. I see most sheds use 24" oc for walls and rafters, is there any benefit to using 16" for something this size (8x14)? I have enough lumber.
Gable roof with 6' rafters, plywood and shingles. Ridge beam or trusses or collar ties? attic would only be 3' high in center, not much room for storage.
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