|
| Author |
Message |
zola049
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Mar 2018 09:20pm
Reply
Looking for some fresh opinions about my cabin build. Specifically the electrical/plumbing which is the current project.
Some info first:
12x24 wood frame hunt camp in rural area of south Florida
Property is high, dry, and HOT.
No interest in future grid power.
High theft area due to local meth head scavengers
Only thing left out will be cheap, loud and gas thirsty generator
All wiring inside is 12g romex to a 100amp panel with 15
and 20amp breakers respectively
30 amp power inlet outside to bring 220v from genny into panel via girthy generator cord about 30ft long
Will be powering interior/exterior lights, outlets, small window ac, 110v shurflo plumbed in from a water tote outside, small tv etc
So due to theft I won’t be bringing in a meter, solar panels, batteries etc.
Maybe a well pump in the future but for now I’ll shuttle water via totes.
I consider myself a jack of all trades and definitely a master of none so there are a couple of things that have me held up.
1. The whole grounding, bonding deal with the generator. Seems like the more I read the more cross eyed I get. Where the does the darned ground rod go??
2. Plumbing: do I need a pressure reducer after the shurflo 3gpm pump? The pump is going to supply a sink, an outside “spicketâ€, and an eco temp water heater to shower and back to sink. Considering using pex and shark bite connections. Anyone have experience with this setup?
Thanks in advance and look forward to sharing pictures once I learn how.
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Mar 2018 05:54am
Reply
Sounds like you have it all worked out, although if you haven't bought your wire yet, there is no need for 12 gauge wire (20A) where std 14 gauge for 15A circuits is fine.
Using 220V to cabin when you have no 220v stuff ? Could just run 120V/30A from genny and KISS, you do not have anything heavy there. That would also allow you to use a smaller & quieter genny which uses way less fuel too... like the little 2000 & 3000 watt inverter gennies and they are far easier to lug around if your constantly having to shift it, several good brands out there with prices all over BUT beware, like all things, some junk too... Honda Inverter Gennies are essentially the Rolls Royce in quality & durability and priced accordingly, there are other good ones at lower price points too like those by Champion (which are pretty good actually and well priced too).
From my generator docs: Grounding
Your generator must be properly connected to an appropriate ground to help prevent electric shock. A ground terminal connected to the frame of the generator has been provided on the power panel. For remote grounding, connect of a length of heavy gauge (12 AWG minimum) copper wire between the generator ground terminal and a copper rod driven into the ground. We strongly recommend that you consult with a qualified electrician to ensure compliance with local electrical codes.
The generator system ground connects the frame to the
ground terminals on the power panel. The system ground is
connected to the AC neutral wire.
Because you will be using a Plug In Cable outside (use a proper plug for that purpose) going to your Panel which has to be grounded, the ground via that cable goes to panel which is grounded, you do not need a "remote / external" ground as such. The Grounding Rod has to ground your electrical panel and it means either a Galvanised grounding plate or a rod has to be set in. Use #8 ground wire from panel to rod/plate, the Plate or Rod has to be 24" from side of building. If Rod sunk to just below the surface (to prevent tripping hazard). If plate, buried at least at least 30" deep. See below an extract from our electrical code, your mostly very similar (it's not rocket science).
On the PEX, sharkbite connections are expensive and I have had issues with them. I bought a crimper & now use a proper pex cutter and ring with "CrimpRite" crimper and rings which make it foolproof, the rings have the small spacer so you always get the ring in the right place. See links below, most likely cheaper in USA. Note that the rings between brands are not necessarily the same even if they look close, be aware of that, it's not a nice thing to learn the hard way
Crimper Tool (1/2" & 3/4" combo)
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.combo-crimptool-value-pack.1000652068.html
Rings:
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.crimprite-ring-handi-pac.1000679012.html
Good Luck, Hope that helps answer your questions
Grounding Info
|
|
zola049
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Mar 2018 06:54am
Reply
Great info and thank you!
I had about 150’ of 12-2 romex left over from my remodel a couple years ago so I used that. We run swamp buggies and stuff out of camp so it’s not rare at all to bring out the big welder to fix something. Hence the need for 220.
As far as the 20 amp, I dedicated a couple of exterior (weatherproofed)
Outlets on its own circuit for my tools(table saws etc) and my real small welder. I’ve had instances with some tools that just won’t run on a regular 15amp outlets
. Especially my small welder that I use for the light stuff.
I’m going to take your advice and do the crimps. I’ll feel better about putting it in the wall!
Now off to get a ground rod and some copper cable!
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Mar 2018 10:35am
Reply
Glad to have been of service. Completely understand using the 12/2 if you had it left over, copper is like gold now and might as well use it if ya got it ! Nothing wrong with using 12/2 but some plugs (with the push in connectors) won't take that so you have to use the terminal screws (I prefer that anyways, don't really trust the flimsy push in connections).
I use a Big Genny 7200/9000 to run my Mig, Compressor etc as such things are just too heavy for a domestic solar system (I'm offgrid). You could also just use your big genny that way as needed and use a small inverter type that run on LPG/Gas like this for the regular cabin use https://www.championpowerequipment.com/product/100204-3100-watt-dual-fuel-inverter/ which run from 2000-3500 watt models.
Most thing will run on a 15A circuit which can handle an 1800 watt spike, compressors can push that to the edge and a mig, well that's too heavy 90% of the models I know of, you need 20A / 2400w to run. If your table saw trips on 15A, Check the brushes and for binding on the motor / blade (sometimes the safety brake on some can cause drag, increasing start load).
Yeah, nothing worse than having plumbing leak inside a wall because of bad connection - that always results in major Drunken Sailor Talk and think blue air !
|
|
rockies
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Mar 2018 07:26pm - Edited by: rockies
Reply
Are you putting the utilities in the cabin or in a small outbuilding? You might consider getting an old shipping container (one of the ones used for shipping frozen foods since it is already insulated) and using that for your utility shed. It can be easily locked up, and you could add motion cameras around it to monitor everything on your phone.
As to the generator, why not convert it to propane? Gas has a habit of going bad after a while, and if you're already bringing propane in for other things it means one less fuel type to deal with. Propane generators also tend to run quieter than gas ones.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 15 Mar 2018 09:38pm
Reply
Quoting: rockies Propane generators also tend to run quieter than gas ones
If the generator is a conventional noisy contractor type, in my experience, propane does not make much difference to noise. The exhaust may be slightly quieter but the mechanical clatter is not reduced. If you do add a better muffler system the mechanical clatter will amaze, maybe shock you. Engines specifically designed for the quiet generators have more cast in block webs, are heavier walled, stiffer and produce less mechanical noise. The big advantage is the cleaner burning propane can increase the time between oil changes, make sparkplug changes much less necessary, and the propane never causes a varnish buildup in the carburetor. The downside includes slightly reduced power output with most.
|
|
|
