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McFee
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2011 09:24pm
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I am looking at a few acres on a slope, maybe 25-30 degrees,. But wooded. Some of these trees are strong and straight and maybe 15-18" in diameter. I am thinking that I might use them to support my cabin rather than cutting them and building piers. Oh yes, I can see eyes rolling now, another newbie trying to relive a childhood dream. But before you run away, let me tell you that I do know that trees bend in the wind, don't always grow straight, grow at different rates, and that the load I put on them may affect how they grow. So, rather than making a stiff, nailed or bolted cabin, the tree supports will be flexible. I am thinking rope, wrapped around where a major limb meets the tree trunk. Of course, these will be at different heights, because nature seldom bends easily to the designs of man. No worries, I can use pulleys to level the cabin, adjusting it as the trees change. Now, I know that a 20' x 20' cabin is going to weigh a bit, but I've got one spot where five trees could support it, and another where six trees might support a cabin of a larger size or the same with longer ropes. But I also wonder if I shouldn't bow to the laws of geometry, and realize that a round structure will have the most area per circumference of any shape. A sphere will have the most volume of any 3D shape, but I don't want to go down that path. Anyhow, between a triangle (worst area per circumference) and a circle there are plenty of shapes, with more sides yielding more area (which means no only less wood consumed in building, but less in heating as well). I don't have any furniture that is curved, you see, and even if I did have some, it probably wouldn't have the same arc as I need. but if I have 6' sections that are straight, then a bend...well you see where I am going with this? Of course, cutting lumber at other than 90 degrees is difficult, but once you get the jig for it, it's not that bad. I wonder though, if I wouldn't end up with a pile of lumber leftovers, and greater expense, but not going with a rectangular design. But for the roof, I will certainly build a nice, sleep slope for these New England snows (not as much as you western NY guys get, but bad enough). I had considered using metal roofing, because the snow could easily slide off. But it shines in the sun, which brings me to my next point....
I am building a place in the woods because I don't want other people telling me what to do. No NIMBY neighbors and restrictive covenants. I am not going to apply for any building permits nor tell anyone what's on my land. My place is HIDDEN. I am a GUERRILLA builder, and I wonder how many others out there have taken it in mind to toss these laws aside when escaping. They tell me I can't build on a lot that has no public road access to it, a road of a certain grade of construction. They say this is because the fire engines have to be able to rescue me. What BS! I've seen the equipment these guys have, and they can make it through. I think it's just more people who are trying to prevent the spread of frontiersman like myself. So, now I am considering roofing, siding, and building methods that will not expose my hideout. If it wasn't for the snow issue, I might want a turf roof. But it may not matter so much, if I build in the trees, the trees can hide me. Well, if they're evergreens, and the ones I have spec'd out for my plans so far are not, because I don't think evergreens are as strong, but maybe I ought to reconsider.
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steveqvs
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2011 09:48pm - Edited by: steveqvs
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I had a local welder make some up braces for a tree house the look like a h upside down and the 2x6 rides in the slot. that way the trees can move. now i never did put that treehouse up.......
okay i found a picture on line that looks like them... i paid like $15 or so to have them fabricated.
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McFee
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2011 11:48pm
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Thanks for the quick response Steve. The problem I see with your h-bracket is that they only give one axis of freedom, and also it would seem as though they need to be bolted to the tree. I'd rather not bolt to the tree, because I am not 100% sure of how to do this and not affect the strength of the tree and its longevity. As rope is totally non-invasive, it would seem to be a better approach to me. But, ropes age and wear, both on each other and that they rub against. I think I'd need some pretty long-lived plastic rope or some hybrid rope to deter against rot.
Now I wish I hadn't let all those knot-tying skills from Boy Scouts be forgotten.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2011 01:44am - Edited by: MtnDon
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The most important part of a living tree is the layer just under the bark, the cambium. This is the layer that acts like the vascular system of our own bodies. It is only a few cells thick and easily damaged. If damaged in a localized area the tree will usually easily survive. As long as insects can not easily enter a screw, nail or bolt is usually no problem. I have many trees that decades ago had barbed wire nailed to them as fence posts. The trees are fine. However, if a tree is girdled around the trunk with ropes, cables or wires the tree will die as the "veins and arteries" between the leaves and roots will be cut off. It may take a few years as the tree slowly grows and strangles itself, but it will happen.
If a branch is girdled rather than the trunk, the branch will die just as if you girdled your arm with a tourniquet and left it there.
Trees will tolerate having holes drilled in them to permit the use of lag screws. They will tolerate long spikes driven into them. Even drilling completely through and using bolts to secure brackets or installing eyebolts to attach cables or ropes is much safer than girdling a tree. Maple trees are drilled and "tapped" every spring to produce maple syrup. They survive.
In fact if one has some trees they want to kill and also has some time girdling is a recommended method to kill them. Chemicals or a chainsaw may be quicker. Quicker than girdling, but slower than chemicals would be to completely strip the bark around a short section of the circumference.
So go ahead and build a tree house, but hardware should be used if the tree is to be kept alive.
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Just
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2011 10:08am
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Being a hunter i hapin to know that tree houses "squeek " all day and all "night" happy dreams !!
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TomChum
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2011 02:29pm - Edited by: TomChum
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I considered building a treehouse before I build my cabin (....and that notion is has not gone away!)
I bought a great book called "Treehouses of the World" by Pete Nelson. These folks build Treehouses all over the world, and this is the method that they have arrived at. I like this method, it's easily buildable, and makes perfect sense.
It was designed by a guy named Michael Garnier. Pete Nelson has a business called "Treehouse Workshop". You can buy them here. [url=http://www.treehouseworkshop.com/store.html[/url] And there's lots of other books about treehouses too.
I suppose some joints could be quieted, if you have a way to grease them.
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soundandfurycabin
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2011 04:49pm
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Here are a couple links showing how to hang a treehouse using bolts and cables...
http://www.thetreehouseguide.com/constructiontutorials/cables.htm
http://www.copylounge.com/treehouse/cables.html
The second link shows a safety cable as a backup if the main hardware were to fail. The safety cable appears to be wrapped around a branch. Hopefully it is loose enough not to kill it.
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Just
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# Posted: 7 Feb 2011 05:08pm
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3 am,, raining,,[ hay honey] will you go out and greese the house ?
just kidding it will work out just fine with a good plan!!
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apray
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# Posted: 7 Aug 2013 10:36pm
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TomChum wrote above about Pete Nelson. Thanks for the information, I need to check out his book and website. Nelson now has a show called "Treehouse Masters" that is on Animal Planet. It is a fun show, and his treehouses are amazing! I always wanted a treehouse....
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paulz
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2021 10:16am
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Bumping an old thread.
Took a hike up the hill behind my cabin the other day, onto the neighbors expansive property that surrounds mine on two sides. They had a guy working for them up until a few years ago, an Alaskan native with real back woods experience, we became good friends.
He's moved on but left behind his living quarters, a yurt up in a tree. It's on the left in the photo, hard to see detail. The other shack on the right was just storage.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2021 11:02am
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That took more than a little work!
I grew up in and live in tree country. Been in a few tree houses from small shacks to pretty nice, but no where near 20x20. Some of these were 'play-house' type, some were 'deer hunt stands'. Many folks here like the elevated stands for hunting visibility, not to hide the structure. Deer tend to do line of sight for danger, not up.
The most common perm elev stands are built on poles, not using trees. Having watched a number of these structures thru the years I can say those on poles have a much better survival rate than those on trees.
Unless built in amongst conifers the elevated stands become much more obvious after leaf-fall too.
Imo, if 'stealth living' is the objective then in-ground/earth bermed is the way to go. Smoke rising is a give-away too.
The powers that be around here are using sat-pics more and more for desk-top 'analysis' of what to go look at on the ground. If you drive into your property the track will be obvious as will the vehicle signature and any 'square/rec' structure roof.
Just go onto Google Maps, pic some woodsy property and come in on it with the sat-view. Scan around and look at what people have built in there.
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littlesalmon4
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2021 11:43am - Edited by: littlesalmon4
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We are working on a treehouse type project.
Because we do not have enough trees of size and did not want a structure that we need to resupport in the future we used 4 power poles as tree. The structure is 16'x16' and 2 floors.
We enclosed the bottom for stair access and wood stove installation.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 30 Nov 2021 06:43pm - Edited by: Fanman
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My "wood shed" is a roof spanning between two trees. The frame is lag bolted to the tree at one end, and rests on two short pieces of 2x4 bolted to the tree at the other end so it's free to slide. It creaks when the wind blows but it's become a comforting sound. At one point I rubbed some wax (old candles) on the sliding surfaces but I really can't say it made much difference.
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