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chappell
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# Posted: 24 Jan 2018 05:56pm
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I recently acquired some fresh cut pine logs and have a bandsaw mill on the way. My dream has always been to build my own cabin. I know right off many will be against building with green logs but I don't want to mill this year and not being able to build until I retire. Ive done remodeling and redid our old farm house from the studs. I haven't had home building experience though.
Im planning a 8X16' cabin with a 4' deck along the long wall. for foundation I will be building on bedrock so I don't think frost line should be a big issue. I am planning a 2'x2' concrete pad with a concrete post pier block on it. pier will be 6"x6" PT. beams on top will be 8"x6". 3 beam under living portion 4 feet apart and will span 8' lengthwise.
On the beams I will have 2"x8" for floor joices 16"OC. 2" solid foam insulation inbetween joices. topped with vapor barrier and 5/8 T/G sheeting.
Logs will be 6"x6" D logs caulked at seams and screwed down. (With the logs being green how many screws should be installed for each log?)
The roof is probably where I feel I lack the most. I want something simple and looking at a lower profile slant roof the will run from the one side all the way past the deck. I'm thinking2"x6" 16"OC with a 2' over hang top/bottom and 1' overhang on the sides.
Ive done some research and I believe my spans will all work out. but since this is my first cabin Im looking for all hints tips and pointers. I'm hoping during all the work im creating for myself this summer I or my wife will have time to snap some pics of the progress
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rockies
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# Posted: 24 Jan 2018 07:57pm
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Building on bedrock, as in the rock is exposed and there is not soil or the bedrock is quite close to the surface and there is some soil?
How are you securing your concrete foundation piers to your 2x2 concrete pad? You might be better off using concrete blocks (set side by side and then the next level is 90 degrees to the first level) and filling them with concrete. That will give you wider, more stable piers.
I take it your log walls will rest on top of your beams? Are the logs square cut on four sides or on the tops and bottoms?
Your floor joists are too shallow. Are you only putting in 2" of rigid foam insulation for your floor? I would place PT plywood on top of your beams and them build your floor system on top of that using 2x10's (at least) and stuffing the cavities full of Roxul Comfortbatt mineral wool insulation.
As to the roof, I guess you want simple shed style roof. Your roof rafters are also undersized. You should use 2x10 minimum (especially with those overhangs). One really heavy snowfall and your eaves will snap off. Also, how are you insulating your roof?
Bear in mind that as your green logs dry and shrink you'll have to engineer all vertical pieces of wood (door jambs, window jambs, posts, etc" to "slide up" into the header logs so the walls don't hang up as the settle.
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chappell
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# Posted: 24 Jan 2018 09:51pm
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Rock is exposed in some area with little dirt over others. The dirt will be removed to get to rock. I tried drilling through the rock a couple years ago and let me tell you- ITS SOLID!
I thought about the concrete blocks but the issue is the area is not totally level, and removing the rock isn't going to work. Im guessing up to a foot off in a 12ft stretch. I figure with the pier and post it'll be easier to get a level foundation. My plan was to pour a pad and set the formed pier blocks on it then put the post into the block and secure the post to my beams. Not sure if that's right.
Logs will be milled on 3 sides. The floor will be built on the beams and the logs will rest on the floor. The beams will be under the long walls.
For the floor joists I read a few chart that stated a 2x8 is rated to span 10+ ft. Min will only be spanning 4' in between the beams. Yes I'm planning on 2" of insulation rigid. On top off the sheeting I'll be putting in a 2" hardwood floor.
Like I said my roof is my biggest concern since I haven't done much roofing and never build rafters or trusses. I'm thinking your prolly right on the 2x10s. As far as insulating the roof I'm thinking of faced batt with 1" boards for the ceiling finish.
I know since I'm building green I'll have to deal with some shrinkage and shifting. I don't know how to build sliding headers that your talking about. My plan for windows and door is to loosely frame them in and after a year or so go back and seal them up or redo the framing if needed. I'm going to let the whole cabin sit for a year or so before I do any treating of the logs or caulking so everything can dry out and settle.
I do have a quick question about fastening the logs down. I'm using 8" timber screws. If I put 1 screw every 2' or so is that adaquate or am I overscrewing? My log stacking plan is to alternate on corners so there is not a single seam running down the entire height of the wall
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Ontario lakeside
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# Posted: 25 Jan 2018 02:38am - Edited by: Ontario lakeside
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We built a cabin on bedrock. Bolted galvanized brackets to the rock and used 6x6 PT piers, I dont think you need to pour a pad. We built a shed style roof with 2x10s 16oc. Simple.
Check out some of my cabin build videos, I go over some of these things.
best of luck with the build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiD4X7Gs2uo&list=PL_rsbBIKr8dfzu7u1Bv43CB05JQBql6P8
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neckless
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# Posted: 25 Jan 2018 08:25am
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leave a minimal gap of 4 inches above windows....trust me in 5 years there will be no gap..... in window openins there should be a keyway cut than a 2x2 installed to float than frame should be attached to keyway. leave 4 inches clearance at top of keyway....anyway thats how u get a window to float in its opening......always keep in mind that this building will shrink a lot......
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chappell
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# Posted: 25 Jan 2018 12:33pm
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Well you've changed my mind. I'm now planning on sonotubes with concrete instead of wood piers. I will be attaching to beam with a bracket.
neckless- thanks for the info. Ive never heard of a keyway and was just planning on loosly fitting the door/window. I will be attempting to utilize the keyway now as it looks like a great idea. Just so I got this right:
I build a box frame attached to sliders that slide in the wall. Can I fasten the bottom of the frame to the bottom sill? I know I cant screw into the sides or head obviously.
I only seen keyways for the windows. I'm assuming use the same concept for the door though?
for the trim im assuming I fasten to the window frame and leave the outside edge loose so it allows movement? Also do I put anything in the opening above the window and door to seal it in (at least temporarily) otherwise I might just add some loose insulation in there to help keep some of the wind and cold out
Im not to worried about the trim etc etc since this is only going to be a rustic part time get away cabin for me and I don't need anything fancy. I just know the trim will help slow the wind and cold.
thanks for the comments, keep em coming
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rockies
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# Posted: 25 Jan 2018 07:59pm - Edited by: rockies
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I sense you haven't realized how much your walls will shrink over time. This image is from a log cabin building website. An "average" amount of shrinkage is estimated to be about 3/4" per 1 foot in height.
http://www.paulkahle.com/logconst.html
https://www.logcabinhub.com/log-preparation-tips/
http://www.thelogconnection.com/log_settling.html
The amount of drying and settling your walls do will critically affect the design and installation of all vertical members (posts, door and window frames, even the installation of wall cabinets). There must be nothing in place which can "hang up" the wall and prevent settling otherwise your walls will start to heave and your doors and windows may jam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mm6e17vHPCU
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chappell
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# Posted: 25 Jan 2018 10:46pm
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I knew it would shrink and settle, but not that much. Luckily this will be a small cabin mainly for my get away camp out with family or hunting. About 130 sq ft. Their won't be any vertical posts in the cabin just the log walls. I'm very interested in the keyway advised and I now that comment alone will save me some headaches. I am glad to read that the shrinkage isn't much linear wise. No cabinets, at least for a while, so the only hang ups I think I'll have is the door and a couple windows.
With this shrink rate I'm guessing I should sink my screws about 1/2" down into the logs as they are stacked. They are 6" D logs.
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neckless
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2018 02:17am
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u have the right idea about the key...this is how my log house is that i live in...... as for screwing the logs togeter ..dont think that will work...if u start with a hole in log and a threated 3/8 rod and use couplers as u go up than u can retourch anytime as shrinkage occurs ....just a thought
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