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Srollins
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2017 04:40pm
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Hello all,
First and foremost thanks to all the members giving the advice on my subfloor ( see previous post) I went ahead and got the Advantech 3/4" T&G and wow its tough stuff. moving forward I need some ideas concerning walls I want a rustic look , so far was thinking of getting some 6x6 rough cut and basically framing walls out of those and using 5/4 x6" T&G boards on the outside , stain the 6x6 a darker color then the 5/4 and go from there . I could add some cross bracing and some different things inside to really set it off, I like that look but who knows what else I could do, I don't like the idea of standard 2x framing . insulate, then you need to finish off the inside. My way you have exterior sheathing and your inside is finished off as well, after the boards are in place I would install foam board overtop then some type of siding. any advice, pics?
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rockies
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2017 06:01pm - Edited by: rockies
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Rigid foam board applied to the exterior can trap water against the sheathing. Plus all that seam taping. I would recommend using Roxul Comfortboard rigid mineral wool panels on the exterior. It is a breathable exterior insulation that is also water resistant and fire proof.
http://www.roxul.com/products/comfortboard-110/
You'll also have to apply a air/vapor barrier on top of the sheathing before attaching the Comfortboard.
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/housewrap-can-liquid-applied-w rbs
The BEST way to do this is to use a liquid applied barrier like Stoguard.
http://www.stocorp.com/sto_products/sto-gold-coat/
On top of the Comfortboard you attach 1/2" spacers running vertically every 16" on center and then your exterior siding.
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ICC
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2017 08:44pm - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: Srollins so far was thinking of getting some 6x6 rough cut and basically framing walls out of those and using 5/4 x6" T&G boards on the outside
T&G siding installed horizontally, nailed over studs or vertical posts in the usual manner, provides very little bracing against sideways forces on the walls, such as high winds. When that bracing used to be provided with boards the boards were nailed at a 45 degree angle, forming a mass of triangles. Triangles are strong and resist movement whereas horizontal boards... might look nice but are not stable.
That does not make for a good building and is puzzling to me when the intent is to side over the T&G on the exterior side anyways and cover with some other siding.
Using 6x6 and larger timbers is done in timber framing. They can be quite handsome to view. They need bracing and done properly the bracing is not just nailed up in some haphazard manner. Joints are cut and fitted. I have an old timber frame barn I inherited. A thing of beauty and strong, but with a great many hand cut and fitted mortise and tenon joints. Not for a weekend builder with no prior experience, IMO.
Rockies, sheet foam over a stick framed and sheathed (with osb) is not a problem when done right. I guess the "when done right" can be said of anything. Success depends on using the correct thickness of foam for the climate. My walls are foam insulated on the exterior with no infill insulation between the 2x4 studs at all. Google something like "foam exterior insulation green building" and anyone can read how to do it right. Thousands of homes in the northern areas have been retrofitted this way with complete success, when done right.
As for the idea of using what amounts to open on the inside framing, where do the electrical wires, water supply and drains go? How do they get covered, made safe in the case of electrical? I did not fill the stud bays on purpose. Electrical and plumbing can be retrofitted if I ever need or want to without having to deal with insulation packed in the stud bays.
A stick frame building with exterior foam, then vertical furring and a lap siding over that can be quite attractive and very energy efficient and fire safe depending on the siding used.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2017 09:49pm - Edited by: Steve_S
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I would like to clarify what your thinking on a bit to se if I understand your plan.
1) Frame everything with rough, stain the framing slightly darker.
2) The Stain 6" T&G and apply as external sheathing (nicer side in) to framing.
3) Apply some type of foam insulation on the exterior, seal around window / door RO's and lift walls into place, nail/screw together and anchor.
4) Goal is to keep the framing, exterior sheathing T&G etc visible as your interior finish for the more raw look.
Rough Cut is nice but requires work, lots of it before using it to build a cabin or high finish living space. Wonderful for sheds and other which can be more "slack". width & thickness varies quite a bit and even on same board, not necessarily any 100% straight edges either. Real table saw (no foldup up & go jobbie), patience, chalk line & time. BTDT ! Still doing it as all my inside "finishing trims", baseboards, beams all rough cut pine, some 12" wide.
That should work BUT the foam is the critical issue and which.
The Roxul Comfort Board is a WIN but it is not foam, high R-value, water resistant and wont's absorb or wick water, bugs/rodents hate it, quite fire resistance (it is rock wool afterall) breaths which is good for wood behind it.
PolyISO High R Value per inch,
- Foil Faced (most common) does not breath and must be foil taped, wood will have to breath inwards ! (It is a vapour barrier).
- Paper / Fibre faced breaths which is better for the wood, lightweight, does not attract rodents or bugs (some older versions did but that was solved yrs ago) not a vapour barrier.
EPS, XPS foams are not ALL suitable for exterior cladding. EPS-II is suitable for between stud construction very time consuming unless premade & milled for an EZ-Sip application (that's $$).
Windows & Doors ! there's a gotcha there...
If you clad insulation outside this should be trimmed to the RO's of your doors and windows, these will need to be corrected to allow for baily boxes (1/2"- 5/8" Plywood box to slip through the RO and through the foam, added support as well for the windows & doors because you are now moving them out by X inches depth for insulation, + strapping or rails for exterior finish + the thickness of the exterior finish itself and possibly trims. Depending of course on what you want on the outside to show and IF your building with a Rain screen Method or not which changes it too...
Roxul & ISO are about R5.5 per in thick, varies on specific type a bit.
How much R Value do you want / need ?
Year Round or 3 season ?
Rainy damp moist area or dry ?
Snowy & Wintery ?
Right roof can make the world of dif as well... I'm sure you saw me mention texas cool roofs... used the idea, love it to death, works a treat, people are seeing it at my place and employing it. This summer it never went of 24c / 75f even when it was 35c / 95f for two weeks, no fan, no ac, windows open. stays toasty in cold & winter.
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ICC
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2017 10:19pm
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Quoting: Steve_S PolyISO High R Value per inch, - Foil Faced (most common)
All polyiso sheets are faced with something because of the manufacturing method. Foil is usually used as that creates an impermeable barrier when taped right. Polyiso can also be fiberglass faced when it is desirable to have a vapor permeable insulation.
Quoting: Steve_S EPS, XPS foams are not suitable for exterior cladding.
Show me where you got that. XPS and EPS can and are used on the exterior. The exterior finish on top of them must be done to create the proper barrier of course. XPS is used under concrete to insulate a slab too. XPS may have environmental reasons to not use. They use ozone depleting gasses in the manufacture. Polyiso may be the more friendly of the foams as the process uses no gasses that are ozone destroying. Strangely polyiso performs better in hot climates than in cold climates. Also because polyiso forms a vapor barrier it should be the only vapor barrier. No vapor barrier on the inside is a must.
Insulation and vapor barriers are climate specific. Srollins, some of the best time you can spend is to check out the buildingscience.com website and search out wall construction, insulation, roof construction.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2017 07:04am
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PolyISO I have used has all come from Atlas, their website tells you all you need to know which is which and where to use. The vast majority (4 lifts) used in my place where from a Commercial Roofer* and where not foil faced.
Atlas Insulation Site: (Not sure if this is a NA company, or Canada only but material & data should be identical in any case.
http://wall.atlasrwi.com/products/residentiallight-commercial/
Under my FPSF Slab I used 4" thick XPS "Roofmate(tm)" double over code in this area. again, obtained from a Commercial Roofer*
REF: https://www.dow.com/en-us/products/roofmatexpsinsulation
** Older versions of RoofMate and some EPS used an additive which unfortunately attracted certain insects to bore into it. That was resolved about 10 years ago if memory serves. CAUTION if buying take-off insulation, watch for date stamping and look for tiny holes.
*Commercial Roofer*
I purchased almost all my foam insulations from a Commercial Roofing company at "extreme discount". This is "Take Off Insulation" from large commercial facilities (schools, malls etc). When re-roofing and when they have to strip off, all good material is kept intact and removed properly, then sent for recycling (requirement here). The companies get a credit for doing so but it costs a lot to ship out and often they can be convinced to sell to a Cabineer, as they still get the creds & save on shipping... Transport Truck loads = $$, ISO & XPS very light as well so not a heavy load. I paid $7 a sheet for 3.5" 4'x8' ISO, $8 a sheet for 4", and $4 or $3 for 2" thick. The XPS was $10 a sheet (2'x4'x4") My EPS-II was $10 per sheet 4'x4'x5-1/2".
Current EPS (10 yrs or so) all have been treated for fire resistance & insect control additives, some concerns were raised about that but unfounded. There are many kinds of EPS (that is the white styrofoams you see) and not all equal .
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Srollins
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2017 09:32am
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Just wanted to clarify a couple things, sometimes it's hard to explain a vision , I'm mainly after a certain look and to achieve that I will need to frame this differently then most folks would frame. I haven't started anything yet but I need to start the layout and planning/ budgeting .
I will take another stab at explaining what I'm after,
Wall framing- will consist of 6x6 rough cut basically built like a typical wall including bottom plate and top plate also 6x6, I think 4' apart the 6x6 studding will be with diagonal 6x6 between the studs. the 6x6 wall studs will be laid out the same way so the roof rafters rest on top of the wall studs, again I'm not sure about the spacing of the studs I'm assuming 4' is ok?
Wall sheathing- will consist of 5/4" x 6 T&G Pine, using this I will achieve the look I'm after on the inside, the outside If I called it done great however, no insulation in my walls. If I go the other route I would cover the exterior in Tyvek then some type of siding.
the cabin is in West Virginia its going to be a weekend get away so I don't want to sink too much money into it however, I want to build it to last a long time. I don't want to over complicate the idea or purchase a bunch of new products that are offered today, but I want it done right just simple.
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Srollins
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2017 09:47am
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It would be a huge help if someone could build my wall for me , meaning wall section side view I'm thinking inside to outside like this,
6x6..... T&G...... TYVEK........SIDING
OR
6X6......T&G........TYVEK........FOAM 2" BOARD........SIDING
??????
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2017 10:03am
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So something along these lines for the interior finish / look:
option 2 likely work best. 2" is between R10 to R13 pending on what you use. Seriously look at the Roxul Comfortboard for this.
6X6......T&G........TYVEK........FOAM 2" BOARD...|strapping|...SIDING
Have a peek here for assorted plans, some free, some cheap, others a bit more.... good stuff... even a cheapo plan from them may answer many of your questions and these guys know what they are doing.
http://jamaicacottageshop.com/?s=plans&post_type=product
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Srollins
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2017 10:28am
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Thanks Steve, yes your pic is most definitely close to what I want to do and I agree option #2 is the way to go but what do you mean by strapping?
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2017 11:31am
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You never mentioned what your intending on siding, I would assume of your going for the nice raw wood finish look inside that your likely contemplating a natural wood siding to keep "the theme"... OK, I did Live Edge Cedar, looks lovely BUT laborious is an understatement.
If you attach Comfortboard or something else, it cannot support / hold weight obviously, it's not structural. You will have to strap and screw / nail to framing members / studs and then attach youe siding to the strapping.
There is also an Bonus Advantage if you do this as a Rain Screen method, providing a 1" air space between siding and insulation, allowing free airflow between (no condensation, lower rot/mould etc issues). Also provides a thermal break between the siding & the actual wall structure keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Being Canadian in the Mid North I can tell you this is really effective both on hot 95F / 80% humid days to -20F blusteringly nasty days - similar to the Cool Roof system, together it's a huge win.
BTW: I have had people come and look at my build, see it physically for themselves and see the numbers - many are following the path... I took huge chances, gambled & WON as several of the techniques were new to me but with good foundations in science and practicality. Even the building inspector in this region tells people about some of the stuff I incorporated and how well it works... but who am I, just a shmuck who hates doing anything twice and wants best bang for buck and to have an ultra cheap to operate home in my retirement... rather spend $ on other things when I have time.
Even my Propane Installer was enamoured with my Radiant Heating System (he also builds them) and took plenty of photo's and will be changing his systems to reflect a few improvements that never even occurred to him before (and he's been doing it for 20 yrs). He is also building a new home in spring and will be using the roof design and rainscreening method now that he saw it, touched & understands it, although mine is not Bog Standard due to my material choices ands particular building quirks.
REF's in case you missed them in other posts and for new readers etc...
The Texas Smart Roofâ„¢: The Coolest Roof in Texas Excellent Description ! based my roof on this.
http://www.houstoncoolmetalroofs.com/cool-roof-information/cool-roof-design-texas/
Video on YT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1Zmo7D6Qqs
** There are many docs on this at GBA, CMHC and elsewhere but the above is one of the best descriptions and discussions on it.
All About Rainscreens
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/all-about-rainscreens
** Lots of info out there but this is a good snapshot article.
Radiant Heating Floor System
(for those reading and interested in what I was talking about).
I used this companies products and am 110% Pleased with the workmanship, support & help that was provided and their speedy response to issues (caused by my particular installation). HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ! BTW their pricing is bang on ! Even their On-Demand heater prices beat many !
http://www.radiantcompany.com/
Hope that helps.... I'll check in tonight after the days work is done... I hope I answered your questions, maybe raised a few too, that's ok, we are here to share our knowledge & Experience or what is the point right.
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Srollins
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2017 11:46am
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Steve, I really appreciate your input. I have zero questions I think I can now take the info you provided and apply it to a solid wall design and press on.
Have a great Thanksgiving and thanks again
Scott
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rockies
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2017 06:39pm
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I get the feeling that since your cabin is going to be a weekend getaway you are not too concerned about insulation. Do you plan on having water and electricity?
One thing to keep in mind is warm INTERIOR air condensing on a cooler or cold interior surface. I would still recommend wrapping your exterior walls on the outside with Roxul Comfortboard rather than rigid foam panels because (as mentioned) rigid foam needs to be detailed exactly right in the field and it hardly ever is. The more insulation you apply to the exterior means that the exterior shell stays warmer, hence less chance of interior moisture vapor condensing on the interior wall and ceiling surfaces.
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Srollins
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2017 08:36am
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Understood, I don't know much about the comfort board but will research it. You are correct not much concerned about insulation but I want something instead of nothing. Electric will be at first a generator or propane don't really need much , water will be pumped in from a nearby creek for toilet flushing , I will transport drinking , cooking, shower water from an outside source.
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rockies
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2017 07:55pm
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Why are you putting a flush toilet into a weekend cabin? Why not use a composting toilet? No plumbing pipes, no waste disposal.
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Srollins
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2017 07:41am
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It's complicated but I will take a stab at it, basically I don't know what the future holds for this cabin and I'm trying to build on a budget but at the same time build correct and have the option of turning this weekend getaway into a permanent place to retire, I have 12 years until I can retire and I guarantee a lot of time will be spent at the cabin once I retire.
The cabin site is located 5 hours away from where I live and work so I guess you can call me a weekend warrior, so there is my dilemma.
When we stay at the cabin a full bathroom is a definite so I was going to go futuristic and buy a septic tank and have all typical plumbing except for trucking in water for showers, toilet I can pump water from a nearby creek to one of two water tanks I already have, one tank for creek water and the other for shower / cooking water.
I am a school builder by trade but its not the same, what I do is very commercial/ industrial and everything is sub contracted out to other trades, we are construction managers .
I understand many folks on here are puzzled by my ideas, I'm mainly using the site to spit ball ideas and it works, I appreciate all the help I get on here and take constructive criticism well. and oh for hot water I was thinking a small tankless??
I may add propane in the future or go solar not sure but until then a generator will provide power, I was also thinking of a rain water collection system for the toilet water, I will still look into a composting toilet.
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rockies
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2017 07:19pm
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So basically you want to start with a "camping" shell and eventually turn it into a full time, 4 season home. That route is fraught with peril!
The danger is that as you add on services you get boxed in by the decisions you made before. You discover that you can't add on a room where you want it because you don't have the necessary structural framing in place, or there's no place to run the plumbing pipes without them freezing in winter.
I would recommend designing the cabin for 12 years from now when it's complete and putting in all the systems on the plan so you know they will fit. For example, you could put in a 6 inch deep false floor throughout the interior so that in the future you can run all the pipes there rather than down in the structural floor (where they tend to freeze).
You could also design the interior wall finish so that certain "boards" can pop off easily in case you wanted to add more wiring. The best idea is to centralize all your plumbing so it runs through one small common interior wall (the kitchen and bathroom back to back). The last thing you'll want to do in 5-10 years is start ripping things out in order to update.
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Srollins
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2017 06:20am
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Good idea sir, I started working on a floor plan and should have considered freezing pipes but didn't. I think your right in my decision making sometimes I get impatient and just want it done so I can start actually using it but your right I have been working my whole life none stop and the last thing I want to do upon retirement is tear stuff apart because of poor decisions 12 years back. Speaking of back BACK to the drawing board thanks Rockies!
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Srollins
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2017 07:26am
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Here's some pics of my cabin project in West Virginia.
IMG_1297.JPG
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IMG_1299.JPG
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IMG_0317.JPG
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IMG_1245.JPG
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2017 07:49am - Edited by: Steve_S
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Rockies makes very good points there.
Because of how I built my place and materials I chose, my exterior walls have 5-1/2" of EPS-II foam between the wall studs & with cathedral ceilings 7-1/2" of PolyISO between my rafters, I did not want to put holes in any of it (doors, windows, exhaust vents & air intake excepted of course LOL). So I have run my electrical within the few internal walls or on interior surface where needed (2 spots), my plumbing same thing, water pipe comes in through the concrete pad from underground. The kitchen sink, shower and washroom sink drain lines are also surface run at floor level (shower is on a platform of sorts) and 1/4" per foot slope observed for those. Everything is hidden from view with the exception of the cleanouts
Figure a utility room close to the action (between kitchen & washroom) where you can put your hot water heater (On Demand is really the only way to go), electrical panel, that will keep runs of pipe & wire minimized. Future Planning as well... In my electrical setup, I am running 8/3 from the powerhouse to cabin panel BUT I also have a run of 6/3 which would let me upgrade the panel if needed later already in the wall coiled up (section where panel is, is removable with screws for access)
Washroom... I would really suggest a Grey Water** setup for the whole place and composting toilet system... there are many variations and possibilities and you have to consider what your local laws / regs are too. Septic is black water and toxic / pollution plus it's costly as all heck to get done, whereas composting can be dirt cheap <$50 to a couple of grand for a nice commercial system *NB Not all are suitable for solar systems as they have electric heating elements which are power hogs and battery killers. BTW: Factor in something every guy wants, a urinal !
Also... as you have trades including roofers and what not that you work with, you may be able to get some recovered materials and other stuff through them. For instance, I got ALL my foams, EPS, XPS & PolyISO as take offs from a Commercial Roofer for pennies on the dollar compared to retail. NOTE, they also have thicknesses not available in the retail stores and certainly not at reasonable price points. I have, not one single fibre of Batt Insulation in my present place. Sorry, I do have a special batt insulation in the Cathedral Ceiling Chimney Box as my chimney goes through the roof (should have gone through the wall instead)
Brainstorming here first is the best idea... Toss every idea, issues, potential that you might want to do later (provisioning for add-ons or a porch or ??? ). Some ideas may seem odd or even crazy at first but sometimes they come together with other ideas to provide a better solution. Remember Julies thread, much heavy duty brainstorming there.
Chasing through your threads I figured out your in West Virginia so you don't get huge nasty winters but suffer other issues like high humidity in summer and other ? In any case, build your place for the worst possible conditions experienced in the State to CYA (Cover Your backend) as who knows what the weather will be like down the road so "be prepared"  Also saw that you have already built your floor and base framing on piers, so your already building without really knowing what your gonna put on top... Having already built your base, you have already determined load limits and some placements before you know what your putting on top, careful & well considered planning is now required.. I hope you have many pictures & drawn out diagrams with measurements of everything handy & in Safe Place #1 as you will need to reference them later as this is a prolonged build.
Not to sound negative or anything but better put the brakes on now... your waist deep in an unknown now and it's a tricky spot. You really need to think the next stages through ahead of the game because decisions today and nailed in tomorrow, will affect what you can / can't do later. Door Window placements & sizing... Even things like picking door sizes.. I went 36" because I can walk now BUT may not be so mobile later (already been there before), washroom has pocket door = better access & no swing space needed (that's a big saver)
**Greywater can be used to water plants, trees and even gardens in drier areas or during droughts and if that is planned in ahead that can really work to your advantage. Planting fruit trees and planning a garden area that can be serviced by GW you can ensure having some good healthy food stuffs at hand when it starts producing. I believe WV you can have a very broad choice / options of trees and what not, Far more than me in Zone 4a.
BTW, Peruse through the Jamaica Cottage shop floor plans and designs, they have some really good ideas and solutions in their structures.... good idea source, there are others as well that are worth looking through and grab the ideas that you like and think would like in your place and keep links, download the images (or print pages to PDF to store them, for later).
Boy oh Boy... much to chomp on and ponder about... better set in the Thinking Rocker and start pondering... 
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neckless
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# Posted: 25 Nov 2017 12:54pm
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fyi... the pole shed i built ...had a bunch of 4x4 treated ..i built with these on 3ft centres does sage a bit shoulda went with 2ft.... but 6x6s will be much better ..but the roof sheathing will have to span 4 feet probly need 2inch sheeting of some kind....
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Srollins
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2017 07:20am
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Thanks for the advice Steve and understood , I'm trying to be careful not to get in too deep without proper planning. I have a pretty good floor plan with window and door placement however, after reading about things freezing I will move some things around a bit to solve that issue. I think my main issue is not knowing the full design meaning materials used, I would love to cut my own logs and build a real cabin however, no time! I am completely alone building this my circle of friends is small and the ones I do have would be more in the way then help.....if that makes sense? I love the idea of 6x6 with wood TG siding idea but how can one guy build this type of system alone? A lot of bracing? I could build typical walls 2x4 on the floor, stand up 12' sections alone no worries, install sheathing after walls are up,I could do those types of walls a lot faster then 6x6 but then I have the whole inside to finish off. Decisions decisions! Drives me crazy also NOT a big fan but thought about T-1-11 5/8" sheathing plus siding rolled into one? Thoughts?
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2017 09:37am - Edited by: Steve_S
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I built my place pretty much with MMI Construction... Me, Myself & I. No help from the chipmunk clan (just opinions and much chatter & they critique my music too), wild turkeys or deer !
I framed, nailed, assembled & sheathed my walls on the concrete pad and stacked everything up. Cabin is 24x20 so I built it in 3, 8' sections per long side, 2, 10' sections per short side. Measured not, once, twice or thrice but 4 or 5 times - no screw up allowed ! Luckily I only had a 1/4" oops in a corner quickly fixed. GF came up, 2 friends from down the road and walls were all up, aligned & nailed to base plate in < 2 hours and that's with breaks. 2x6 studs, double bottom (lowest / one against concrete being PT) and double top plate, 7/16 OSB Sheathing. Air Powered Nail gun made life much better.
T111 is not that popular around here, I have never used it so can't comment on it... I might use it for a shed BUT I live in logging country so Pine & Cedar and small mills everywhere, hence why I went Live Edge Cedar for my siding. Lot of work but very nice, several lessons learned with it too. * See photo @ bottom
Cutting your own logs... IF you have worthy trees it is possible to hire in a portable mill (depends on your area though, so) but ungraded unstamped and building inspectors usually say no... IF it's for finishing, IE if you have cedars and want to use that for siding that's different and no problem with B.I's BUT if your in a fire zone then insurance would have something to say about that, like an unequivocal NO.
Maggie and I almost ("" this close) went with a Polebarn sorta, Building Inspector was good with it and thought the plan was good with 2 minor tweaks... In some ways I think that would have been better served. We were very seriously looking at this (even bought the full plans)
http://www.todaysplans.net/DB-Candlewood.pdf
As you already have your floor assembled & on piers, I'm not sure if a polebarn type of structure can be put on that - relative to load points and more... I am not a structural eng so I dunno what would be involved and level of detail. Normally this would all have to be detailed in the plan submitted for the building permit and once there only minimal changes / updates can be done, unless you change permit... I guess you are in an area that does not need permits or is very lax.
Just chucking this in here as other's are likely following / reading here now and maybe later too... Some of the obvious Quick & Easy builds that people can use are often skipped right past as they cannot see it... The complete Garage Kits you can buy from Home Hardware or other lumber / building centres are more than suitable, IF they are 2x6 structure. Placed on a concrete pad (with Radiant Heating in it) is a win.... In Canada - North US, Frost Protected Slab Foundation is a must.
Here is an example of a 2 car, with high loft, 2 dormers. Scrap the garage doors and add a patio door in one, window in other, extend roof from under dormers to make a porch, set that side towards south and voila... open, airy, easy to partition, have a real stair to go up, smaller ground footprint and plans included and usually accepted by building depts... *** of course certain regs for sewage and to go habitable have to be added and it all depends on your area but not hard to add in..
https://www.homehardware.ca/en/index/home-projects/backyard-projects/garages/loft-gar ages/loft-garage-28-x-26.htm
** Below is my West Wall showing the Live Edge, BR & Bath windows and the HRV end sticking out at the top. Notice how deep the facia is ? That's just under 12" because of the Cool Roof design which keeps heat out in summer and warmth in in winter and no thermal transfer.
West Wall BR & Bath window, HRV Vent at top.
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Srollins
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2017 06:49pm
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Thanks for the info Steve, you know exactly what is going on in my head . In a couple weeks I'm planning another trip to finish up the subfloor. I'm useing the suggested Advantech 3/4" seems like good stuff. After then I need to decide what I'm doing for wall framing. Will keep the group updated I'm also trying to set up a meeting with the local power company, power would be great but I'm not sure what will be required on my end and the site is so out of reach and the folks are so laid back no permit is required to build. Now if you add power I'm not sure if things get too crazy I will just go solar which interest me .
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 27 Nov 2017 06:31am
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Mmmmm Power Co and running lines to property... I'm curious what they wanna charge for that. Hydro One (our local monster Power Co) wanted 50K to put in poles, drill into the granite bedrock & cut their own access "right of way" through my bush to my power house and so many little associated costs... roughly 2 miles of wire and a transformer. Solar cost me less than half that.
Usually if your Grid Attached you have to get some sort of electrical inspection prior to them putting the meter on, unless it's a Temp Service Pole for a build site (that likely needs an Inspection as well).
Solar now in USA is not bad BUT if Trump & ITC add tariffs to Imported panels the prices will jump by up to 35% from the latest update could be worse though...
REF: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-10-31/u-s-trade-panel-proposes-duties-of -up-to-35-in-solar-case-j9frwy6w
Your at planning stage, so did you orient the cabin East-West length with a good southern facing to possibly mount roof panels ?
Seems like this is turning into a combo brain storming & planning thread.
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Srollins
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# Posted: 27 Nov 2017 06:34am
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10-4 CABIN IS POSITIONED CORRECTLY FOR PANELS, TELL YOU WHAT IF THE COST IS THAT MUCH I WONT BE GETTING POWER ANYTIME SOON. SOME OTHER FOLKS BEFORE MY PLACE AND AFTER HAVE POWER SO AT THIS POINT IM ASSUMING IT WONT BE A BIG DEAL BUT I WILL KEEP YOU IN THE LOOP.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 27 Nov 2017 06:40am
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WOW.... reading while I wrote but STILL IN NEED OF MUGGA # 1 I see LOL. I have #1 in hand (almost refill time)
I curious what they want... but if lines run past you, should not be terribly bad. If power / phone lines are there then maybe a feed-in power deal is possible down the road but who knows. TBH depending on "Utility Mobsters" is not one of my fav's, especially as things are getting crazy in that sector.
Have a Terrific Day !
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Srollins
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# Posted: 27 Nov 2017 06:43am
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Yeah I agree, thing is I have pole with phone lines on my property going to another lot but for the life of me cant find any power lines anywhere. have a great day
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