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Natureman3
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2011 14:30
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Well, this spring i will be building a 12 x 20 ft cabin on my 55 acres. I am stuck on how I want to do the roofing. I want to use metal, but am not sure all my options. My biggest concern in keeping condensation out. I will use it many times throught the year and will put a small wood stove in it. Because of its size the wood stove would probably heat it up too good, so insulation is not on my mind, unless it is needed to keep out condensation. How would i want to do this with just purlins? Or should I do roof sheathing, felt paper, and then metal? Do I need to leave some kind of gap for air flow between layers? The roof will be on trusses. I have no plans in closing off a ceiling unless it is need for the roofing i use. The walls will be metal as well. I am looking for a few options to guide me. Thanks.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 16 Jan 2011 13:35
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I have an attic space on mine. But used the long ridge beam and rafters, then I sheated it with 1/2" plywood, covered with felt paper and metal roof. I did vent my ridge and have vents in the gable ends in the attic.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 16 Jan 2011 15:47 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Metal walls too? What are your plans for the inside of the walls? What is your climate? I'm also thinking the summer's sun will heat the inside up very quickly to the point of being too warm.
I've only been in one place where I would not worry about insulation. That was a place where they don't eve worry about walls themselves at times. Hawaii.
So if it is cold enough to need some heating at some time of the year a bare metal roof will have condensation o the underside at some time. Even a plywood or OSB sheathed roof with any roofing on it may have some condensation on the underside at times, IF the space under the roof is not ventilated to the outside.
On the other hand if this was to be used only a few times a year and remain empty the rest of the year maybe its not worth the expense of insulation. ???
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97Marlin
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# Posted: 16 Jan 2011 18:18
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Natureman3--I'll be out in Missouri later this year and I am curious as to what 55 acres will run you in Missouri these days???
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Natureman3
Member
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2011 16:36
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purchased mine for $990/acre. All wooded and rough topography in the Ozark hills about an 1 from St. Louis, exactly what I wanted. Game camera has seen turkey, deer, opposum, raccoon, squirrel, and a bobcat.
I thought about the heat in the summer. Hoping several open windows would take care of that. Even thought about putting in a sliding door as a large window. I wanted to stick with the metal because it really doesnt take anything to upkeep, last a long time, and would be simple to put up.
The cold doesnt bother me. I usually sleep in my truck out there during hunting season, I have good sleeping bags. Again I will have a small wood stove in there.
I wasnt planing on drywall or anything on the inside. Maybe later. Right now I'm just looking at a getting something framed and shelled. My father-in-law just informed me he can get shingles for me for free, all different colors of course. But FREE. Multicolors will help it blend anyway. So it looks like im going to shingle it. I guess i will vent the gables and eventually put in a ceiling. Keeping going back and forth on what to do with the walls too.
Would going with metal on the walls and using the roll insulation be enough to keep condensation away or should another layer be put on the wall?
My buddy has a 30 x 30 metal garage but it is not being heated so I dont know how it will react with condesation.
Thanks for the replies.
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PlicketyCat
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2011 19:22
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If you're going to use metal (esp. on the walls without sheathing beneath) and roll/batt insulation, you might want to consider putting a vapor barrier on the warm side (typically the interior in cold climates) of the wall studs & insulation. That should help considerably with condensation since warm vapor won't infiltrate the walls.
The only other way I've seen it done (esp. in warm or wet climates) is to wrap the exterior of the studs with house wrap or felt paper for the weather barrier and then stand the metal out about an inch using 1x3 strapping to leave a ventilation/drainage gap behind the sheets.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2011 19:47
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Right PlicketyCat , the key is to keep the airborne water vapor away from the cold metal on the inside. The vapor barrier has to be well sealed including gaskets at receptacles and switches, etc.
I can't see where you say where you are, or what climate zone you are in. An inside vapor barrier is good in most places in the USA, the hot-humid south excepted when there is A/C.
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