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MntGoat
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# Posted: 30 Jun 2017 10:00pm
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Hey everyone. I have a cabin with a 15/32 plywood subfloor, joists 16" OC. I plan to install 3/4" thick finished flooring. If I nail to the joists do you see any issues with This?
My other option is to lay 3/4" advantech down and then so the finished floor.
Thanks
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Bushwhacked
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# Posted: 30 Jun 2017 10:31pm
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Are you using something like a prefinished hardwood floor for your finish floor?
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MntGoat
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# Posted: 30 Jun 2017 10:32pm
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I am planning to use tounge and groove pine.
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Bushwhacked
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# Posted: 1 Jul 2017 12:54am
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In that application I would make sure to nail to the joists. 15/32 is a little thin IMHO for subfloor. Nailing the 3/4" pine will help make up for that and also reduce the squeaky floor issue over time. If you nail to the plywood, you will have squeaky flooring for sure.
Your second option of laying 3/4 over the 15/32, then doing the finish floor seems a bit over kill to me unless you ever want to tile any part of that floor.
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old243
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# Posted: 1 Jul 2017 08:19am
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We are presently preparing to install engineered flooring in a couple of rooms . it was suggested , to put an underlay material under the new flooring . Should this apply in your case as well?
Our floor was carpet with an underlay pad. This was removed. Under this is a hard maple floor. Could be refinished, but the boss wants new, so that is what will happen. old243
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Just
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2017 08:05am
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We just finished a red pine t&g floor .We used a dab of
flooring cement at each joist and a power nailer. the last two or three rows must be face nailed we used cement then a pin nailer.
looks good sorry no pic...I believe the cement was Lapeges 400
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rockies
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2017 06:00pm
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What is below the sub-floor? Crawlspace, basement, insulation? How big are your floor joists?
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morock
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2017 06:14pm
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I would nail and glue (use something like a PL400) and should be good. That's what I'm planning on next year. It's important to use the correct glue.
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MntGoat
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2017 02:07pm
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Crawlspace 3 feet below (building is on sonotubes)
Joists are 2x8 spanning 8 feet.
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rockies
Member
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2017 07:12pm
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If it is an enclosed crawlspace you run the risk of trapping large quantities of moisture down there and rotting out your floor. Sometimes the air leaking through the subfloor lets enough moisture escape but when you start tightening up the envelope the moisture just builds up. Before you invest in finishing the floor I hope you've addressed any possible crawlspace issues.
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/building-unvented-crawl-space
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/energy-efficiency-and-durability/ 26640/what-best-method-insulating-crawlspace-ceilin
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MntGoat
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2017 08:21pm
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The subfloor is pressure treated. The crawlspace, is 3 feet high and wide open.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2017 08:00am
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I'll toss in my thoughts, 15/32 - 1/2" is not enough to keep bounce from the floor, especially when you lay another layer on it.
My suggestion is to lay down a Min. of 5/8" T&G Sub-Floor Plywood (you can use OSB - but caution Use Sub-Floor Product Only). Never allow the Top Layer to lap over the seams of your original plywood, offset all the joints/seams. You can use a good construction adhesive (use in thin lines) to bond the two (old & new) layers and nail/screw down at 12" intervals. NB You should screw over the entire 4x8 field, where there is no joist under, you can use 1-1/2" screws. The Glue & Screw combo will reduce / eliminate squeaks and shifts... T&G Flooring Ply allows for expansion & contraction correctly without buckling.
TIP: Mark where your joists are as you lay the new Ply down, so you know where you have something underneath... mark it on the ply itself. Believe me when I say, this will save you from much grumble later !
The 3/4" finished flooring I am assuming is something like Bruce Hardwood Flooring or similar product. Typically these are nailed in on edge with a flooring nailer and generally on the joists. With 1" over the joists, you'll need pretty long nails, at least 2" - 2-1/4". Follow the manufacturers instructions for the product.
Crawl Space issues, you have it all open and allowing for air movement, so condensation and dampness is considerably less than if it was closed up without venting. You will still have issues with some dampness and thermal transfer on those cold days when you start heating inside, as the floor warms up it will pull dampness & cold to it... WATCH that underneath and if it's a problem, maybe a light layer of spray foam would do enough to provide a thermal break. ** You didn't mention your region & climate zone if you have deep winter's or if you use this yr round... If you get no winter then not such a problem...
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Bushwhacked
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jul 2017 02:33pm
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Quoting: old243 We are presently preparing to install engineered flooring in a couple of rooms . it was suggested , to put an underlay material under the new flooring . Should this apply in your case as well?
Using an engineered hard wood floor, or laminate will have different requirements, just FYI.
Here is a decent explanation of differences if ya need it.
http://www.bramptonhardwood.com/hardwood-flooring-products/engineered-hardwood-floori ng/engineered-hardwood-vs-laminate-flooring/
Hard wood or engineered wood floor usually have a type of paper as an underlayment. Laminate generally uses a foam or thicker rubber underlayment.
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MntGoat
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2017 01:09pm
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Something I realized was that since pressure treated subfloor was used, I cannot use regular fasteners for my flooring. I plan to install 3/4" advantech down and then install the flooring of my choice.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2017 02:05pm
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t&g +glue+a floor gun should last a lone long time , no water inside the cabin should limlt corrosion . you could hand nail in front of the door entries with some galvanized finishing nails if you are looking at the next century. We have a 68 year old cabin with nothing but t&g pine with no subfloor and they are perfect. they do make stainless power nails I think could try that..
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MntGoat
Member
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# Posted: 28 Aug 2017 02:17pm
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Okay guys one last time.
I ended up with a lot of 5/8 CDX left over from the roof sheathing. Is this suitable to install over the 15/32? Plan now is to use laminate floating floor.
Thanks again
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Bushwhacked
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# Posted: 28 Aug 2017 10:49pm
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If it were me doing the job with what you described, Id use that 5/8 over the 15/32 with sub floor glue between the two and screw it down while screwing into the joists. That would make a good sub floor to put the laminate on. Make sure the C side is up. Follow the directions on the glue so you don't put to much between the layers.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 29 Aug 2017 06:58am
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2nd Bushwhacked's comment. Using a flooring trowel to spread the glue around will keep things even & level while allowing for uniform drying and adhesion... then "stitch" the edges of your new sheets while standing on the centre of the sheet so it's down & flat on the old surface. A Fine to Mid Tooth is best, see image below.
BTW: I've laid thousands upon thousands of square feet of subflooring and Tile (was my job for a few years, in a Modular Home Factory) and very quickly learned how to not have a single call back. NOTE, gluing the 5/8's to the 1/2" will make the floor rigid and tight, IF the 1/2" is screwed down you should be good, IF nailed, over time it could cause squeaks due to normal expansion & contraction with humidity.
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Maine Woods
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# Posted: 23 Jun 2019 08:28pm
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Hi , my wife & I live in a off grid in the mountain & lakes region of Maine. We live here full time & love it. We have a 15 x 30 detached workshop next door with a concrete main floor & a second story with 2x6 unfinished pine flooring 2ft on center. Neither our house or workshop has air conditioning. We keep the workshop heated all winter long to about 55 degrees. We would like to put down bambo or a hardwood flooring above the workshop & turn it into a bedroom or office. I asked a flooring store & they said yes you can glue down 5in wide & 1/2 in thick bambo & have success without any future issues. We have large dogs ,so were excited to hear that. I ordered 500sq ft & drove 2 hours the next day to get it. When we picked it up the guy there said that I will definitely have flooring problems no matter what type of wood floor I put down, if it's not climate controlled. So the project is on hold until I find out if this can be done with success. So, my long winded question is can a bamboo or hardwood floor be glued or even glued & nailed to keep it from moving or cupping in a non air conditioned environment ?
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP !!!!!
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cluttonfred
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# Posted: 24 Jun 2019 06:37am - Edited by: cluttonfred
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I am no flooring expert but in your situation it sounds like a floating floor (not glued or nailed down, just attached to itself) over a padded underlayment might be the way to go as it would allow for expansion with temperature changes. It's also really easy.
See https://www.menards.com/main/howtoguides.html?id=178 (video and little instruction guide) for example.
Personally I like cork flooring if it's not going to get heavy use because it's so pleasant to walk on, but it sounds like you already have the bamboo flooring. You might want to see if it's possible to install what you have using the floating method rather than nailed/glued down.
Cheers,
Matthew
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