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Jabberwocky
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# Posted: 11 May 2017 11:19am - Edited by: Jabberwocky
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I really need to start my own build topic, but just haven't had time. Meanwhile, I will have to keep posting miscellaneous questions seeking some advice:
I need suggestions on materials and thicknesses that would work for a ceiling finish attached to the underside of 2x4 ceiling straps, laid flat, spaced 24"oc.
I spaced the ceiling straps 24"oc because I originally intended to install a light-weight sheet metal ceiling. I installed them flat instead of on edge because ceiling height is a premium due to needing the headroom for the loft.
We are shying away from the sheetmetal because of all the trimming involved - it's not a material I've worked with in the past and I feel it might be a little daunting to get right, especially around light fixtures.
Our next idea was sheetrock, but my carpenter is telling me that it will sag unless we go 5/8" thickness. That's going to be a mother trying to install, let alone the 14' tall end 
So my first question is: Is that true, or would 1/2" or even 3/8" be visually acceptable? (We wouldn't be taping the seams, but caulking and battening them instead). Cost is a factor as well - 3/8 sheet is $10 bucks, 5/8" is closer to $15. Of course that wouldn't include necessary sealant and batten boards, which is an additional expense.
Now, if 5/8" is the only quality option sheetrock-wise, my next question is: What other alternatives are there?
What about plywood? Would a thinner thickness sag just like sheetrock, or no? There's some nicely planed 1/4" stuff I can get for $11/sheet, but is that also too thin?
Any ideas and suggestions are appreciated. 
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KelVarnsen
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# Posted: 11 May 2017 12:48pm
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I'm looking forward to some replies on this topic. My next major project this summer will be installing a ceiling with ceiling joists 24" OC. I haven't decided for sure on materials yet or on additional strapping.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 11 May 2017 12:54pm - Edited by: Steve_S
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Options...
1) 1/2" Ultra Light Drywall (not the regular heavy stuff) will hold up if screwed on properly (12" spacing) and mudded. It could sag if subjected to humidity over a long period.
2) 1/2" Light Green Board (not subject to humidity issues) also used in bathrooms & kitchens... Might be better off...
With DW, if the strapping is exposed (on top of the vapour barrier) then you can also (should) use construction adhesive, run a line on the strapping before setting the drywall on and screwing it down. Believe it or not, that glue will make a big diff over the years. ** You can still add strapping if need be (maybe use 2x3 for the infill strapping between the existing 2x4's) although finding straight / true 2x3 might be tricky but cheaper that 2x4.
3) Pine / Cedar tongue and groove planks - OK costlier but nice never the less... *
4) Rough Cut wood another option, cheaper if avail from local miller... *
* Maybe something could be arranged with a local miller if you have access..
5) I have seen walls done with Slab Wood (off cuts from a miller, very cheap) that looked great, imagine a ceiling would too depending on rest of cabin.... BUT this would certainly be a lot of fiddly work too... +
6) Tin is not really too hard to work with, need a good set of tin snips & straight cutter tin scissor.... Holes for light fixtures can use a Hole Saw (measure 3 times! Cut once) GET A SCRAP Piece to abuse for practice... The modern "Tin" is quite thin compared to the old stuff.... A Circular Saw can cut the sheets down for length but you need to be careful especially if it is painted / coloured tin. Most tin today is the 22 gauge which you could cut with good scissor's BUT it's very sharp ! So you will need good hand protection (Mechanix TM Gloves are great for working with sheet tin.)
1/4" Ply will sag over time as it is porous & will absorb moisture BUT there is a trick ! Paint the backside with a Sealer primer (not just a primer) before installing... Post install, seal to face as well.... You can stain, varnish or paint. Doing so cuts permeability and reduces moisture absorption reducing sag potentials. (you know, you can add extra strapping for 12" OC)
6) Another Possibility is OSB which can be sealed both sides & installed... run a "facing strap" along the seams and in a 2'x2' grid _or_ 4'x4' grid with a different colour / stain. Still keep the 1/8" spacing between boards so they can contract & expand the little and the face strap hides that.... you could use the H-Clips if you wanted to (bit of fiddly work may be needed) Extra Strapping would be good & you may be able to get away with 7/16 Sheathing with extra strapping & sealed on both faces.
Finished Panelling... depends on type, if wood core or fibre core and what it's finished with, veneer or paper (printed pattern) it's $$$ for what you get and really looks 70's tacky (especially after a couple of yrs).
A Photo of your ceiling layout would be helpful to understand... and any potentially tricky spots.
Hope this is helpful,
EDIT: added option 6....
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Jabberwocky
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# Posted: 11 May 2017 04:41pm
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Steve, thanks for the comprehensive reply. 
The strapping will indeed be underneath (or outside) the vapor barrier. I probably should have described the rest of the roof system which may or may not change your answers...
Layers from top to bottom:
Metal roof on 2x4 purlins spaced 24"oc
Radiant barrier
5.5" of poly-iso rigid foam made up of two layers, air sealed
Pro-clima Intello Plus smart vapor retarder
2x4 ceiling straps spaced 24"oc
.... So, because of the painstaking air sealing along with the smart vapor retarder, I'm not too worried about whether the finish ceiling is vapor-permeable or not. But that's a great point about the plywood soaking up moisture and sagging down the road - I hadn't thought of that.
The tin I'm picturing is the type of stuff that is already on the outside of my building - it's too heavy to cut with snips without killing your hand and taking forever. We are partial to the 5V pattern tin, however I think it might be out of our budget - around $700 not including any hardware or trim. Of course it would come pre-coated, so there's the savings in paint I suppose. 
While browsing the web I also found some beadboard that isn't too pricy but worried about sagging: http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-3-16-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-Beadboard-White- True-Bead-Panel-975-759/205669196?MERCH=REC-_-rv_categorypages_rr-_-NA-_-205669196-_- N
... Reviews are not stellar but I don't know if it's a fault of the product or the skill level of the novices that actually have the time and desire to post reviews.
All the greenboard (concrete) listed is in 3x5 panels, which I do not want, and I think would be too pricy.
I don't think the wife would go for an OSB ceiling.
Not a fan of tongue and groove slats, mostly because of cost and time to install.
At this point it sounds like I may need to either stick with tin or install additional strapping for sheetrock or lightweight plywood. I don't want to take a chance on lightweight sheetrock without additional strapping only to have it sag later. Same for plywood. 
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 11 May 2017 06:47pm
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When I mentioned greenboard I meant this type of drywall
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.12-inch-sheetrock-ultralight-mould-tough-4-ft-x-8- ft-drywall-gypsum-panel.1000152285.html
Likely there is something similar in your area... The lightweight drywall is better on a ceiling, heck of a lot less weight on the screws and if properly primed & painted moisture should be no issue, UNLESS the place dampens up badly while unoccupied...
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Jabberwocky
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# Posted: 12 May 2017 08:47am
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Ahhh... I gotcha. Yes, there's a option similar to that here and it's cost-effective. That's probably the option we will go with. I am still intrigued by the beadboard however, just because of looks - any thoughts on the link I posted?
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 12 May 2017 09:03am
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While I have seen nicely done Bead Board (real wood) my experience with MDF is far from stellar... at 3/16's this is something you would glue to a solid backing... like existing drywall, it could never support itself for long, once it dampens, well... what does damp cardboard do....
Seriously, Bang for Buck and simplicity, ultra-light drywall is best... hell it out performs standard gypsum drywall.
IF you want to use something like that, as thin as it is (or close) then you'll likely have to do as shown below to keep it from sagging... I've seen many variants of these and some look amazingly nice when colours contrast somewhat...
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Jabberwocky
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# Posted: 12 May 2017 10:34am
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Yes Steve, that is definitely a look we would go for! But I think you are right about the sheetrock - it's probably the best option.
Incidentally, I DID start my build thread this morning, so I'll probably switch focus to that one moving forward
http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_7577_0.html
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preventec47
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# Posted: 1 Jul 2017 09:00am
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I am planning on doing a ceiling with heavily discounted
discontinued laminate flooring. The edges of each piece interlock and I am trying to figure out the best way of attachment to
the ceiling.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 1 Jul 2017 09:50am
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In my garage ceiling, its 24" centers on the trusses, I have the firebreak 5/8 sheetrock on the wall from bottom to top where it meets the house, so I was able to go 1/2" on my garage ceiling. Its been in place since 2000 and never sagged at all.
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Jabberwocky
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2017 09:32am
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We have switched back to the sheet metal ceiling idea. I am currently in the process of obtaining quotes. We like the idea because A) It's a lot lighter and therefore easier to install. B) We will buy it pre-coated, so no painting afterward. C) No taping and mudding afterward.
In the bathroom and in my office we will do all sheetrock though.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2017 09:41am
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@Jabberwocky, I hope you'll have sound dampening items in your place - throw rugs etc, you may find sound resonating / echoing due to the tin may get a tad annoying. Just one of the things worth considering. All hard surfaces cause echo but tin has a unique ability to do so, just an observation made over the yrs.
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Atlincabin
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2017 09:52am - Edited by: Atlincabin
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Useful tool if you are cutting a lot of sheet metal is an electric "sheet metal shear" that can be found either online or at some hardware stores. Even harbor freight sells them. They are pretty easy to use, cut a nice line, and much easier on the hands. Potential downside is that they take a "kerf" out of your metal typically 3/16 to 1/4 inch wide.
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Jabberwocky
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# Posted: 3 Jul 2017 10:40am
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Steve_S
Yeah, and we're sticking with hard floors  ... Will have rugs though. I dunno, I don't think it'll be too bad. My stereo and home theater system will be in my office, which will be sheetrocked and has a loft in-between it and the metal ceiling. I think we'll be okay.
Atlincabin
Already have one 
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