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Islandlife
Member
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# Posted: 9 May 2017 21:22
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Hello,
Just finished building a 8x16 floating dock. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to make concrete anchors that are easy to move on land? In the past I have filled old tires and added a metal loop to connect the chain to. This was very easy to move(roll) on land but I am not sure if there would be an environmental impact with a tire in the lake
Thanks for any ideas
Graham
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Jim in NB
Member
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# Posted: 10 May 2017 06:13
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I am using the old tire thing as well. I could not find an easier solution and found nothing of major concern searching putting tires in deep (6') water. Be interesting to see if anyone has some different ideas.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 10 May 2017 19:31
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Just out of idle curiosity, why do you have to take the anchors out? And the dock also?
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Wendigolake
Member
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# Posted: 10 May 2017 19:47
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I take my dock out so the ice doesn't get it. However I leave the anchors in the lake. Made a concrete form and put some re-bar in the top, to chain the dock too and it made some decent anchors. They are about a 100lbs each and I have 2 which are on just the end of the dock.
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Islandlife
Member
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# Posted: 10 May 2017 20:19
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Thanks for the replies.
We won't be taking either out. I am going to make them at home and bring them to the cottage. We are on an island so I would like to be able to roll them down the boat launch and onto the floating dock to get them to our place.
I am not sure if 4 tires in the lake are an issue or not however I can't come up with an easier way to make and transport heavy anchors
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 10 May 2017 21:19 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Ok, as someone who grew up in a house on a lake where the level changed during rainy seasons, we had to have a floating dock. We poured a massive concrete pad, or the step or base. Then we build the hinged section of the dock, which hooked to 2 big metal pieces of steel sticking out of the anchor pad. Had long driven rebar into the ground too to keep it from rotating. Then the dock section was the end part. So it went dock end, middle hinge section and this would be flat during normal times, maybe a ramp uphill during heavy rains. We never had the lake go low, but it would accommodate it too.
So 3 parts, anchor pad, hinged mid section (about 6 feet long and then the dock which was probably 24 feet long.
This was the normal std way. We used block Styrofoam. Plastic drums can leak and sink, Styrofoam is forever. We never took our out, it was permanent and the lake froze, was never an issue.
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 11 May 2017 20:43
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Well. I've been a fan of the X pattern chain to concrete blocks. Keep it tidy away y from diving swimmers and boat props.
If you have rising and falling water levels a base at the shore, a ramp (why they make dock hinges?), and a dock. Classic.
After many years on creeks and rivers, taking your dock in means you still have one after the spring flood. Just ask my buddy Christopher about hydraulic pressure and the cost of boat anchors. Smile.
I also like docks that are at least 10 ft wide. Not as tippy. But I imagine those new flat pontoon style floats are somewhat more stable than the old barrels approach.
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gauman2
Member
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# Posted: 18 May 2017 13:00 - Edited by: gauman2
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We did a 32 foot long dock in three sections. First is hinged at land. Other two are attached in the summer and have the tire chain method. In the winter we remove and drag the short piece onto land. The longer sections free float attached to the bottom of the lake to move with the ice. This is in western NY where snow and ice are common. It has been installed since 2014 with no issues. We contacted a guy at the EPA and he advised a tire at the bottom of the lake will do no harm.
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cbright
Member
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# Posted: 23 May 2017 15:49
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I'd just make forms and fill them on the floating dock. Lots of water available.... just fill the forms with dry concrete and then saturated the concrete. Let them set for a while (week?) and then remove the forms and push them off the dock.
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