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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 10:06am
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I'm trying to get my ideas together on a small cabin I'd like to build this spring.
Everything is in the planning stage. I'm thinking 12 x 12'. I'm also playing with the idea of getting some gravel delivered and using 4-Way Dek-Blocks.
Should I frame and level the gravel with lets say pt 2x6's?
What size gravel should I use?
Like I said, this is in the planning stage, any help would be appreciated.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 10:40am
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For Gravel, use the search function on this site to see the excellent gravel discussions. It might be helpful if you could discuss and post pictures of the site, soil, etc. In a forest, it might be wise to remove the loam first.
Quoting: chuck172 frame and level the gravel with lets say pt 2x6's
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 10:42am
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Many option's & possibilities.
What are the building requirements, codes for your area ?
Many have minimum & maximum sizes, varying permit requirements etc... This would be the 1st stop as to finding what you can & can't build and what rules may need to be addressed.
The more info you can provide the better responses you'll get. Be sure to let us know the general area your working in, maybe some of our members are closer to your locality and may be able to provide more accurate info for your region. (there are people on this forum from all corner's of the globe) I should point out that depending on your region, building methods, insulation levels and other factors will be affected.
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 10:43am
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I'll remove the top layer of the soil first. I have a tractor with a loader, and an old backhoe.
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 10:57am
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As far as I'm concerned there are no code requirements here for a 12x12 shed on skids.
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 11:01am
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How bout if I plan on removing the top layer an area 14'x14' about 6". I'd rough level the area down to virgin ground, no topsoil.
Then put down an underlayment material and fill with gravel.
Tamp, level and proceed with the floor framing.
Am I thinking right?
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sparky30_06
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 11:54am
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I built my 10' x 20' using deck block this past year and will be building a 12' x 20' later this year as an addition. First off what part of the country will this be built in?? Do you have frost to deal with? What is the soil type? sand, rock, mud? How high above the block do you plan on building?
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 12:00pm
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I'm in N.E Pa., Clay-shale soil type. Yes we have a frostline to deal with. I thought a small shed on skids over gravel would float, and I wouldn't necessarily have to deal with frost line footings.
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 12:22pm
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I have a 12x20 that floats on skids. I think your plan with fabric then gravel pad will work well. Did for me.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 12:58pm
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That'll work, then 57 type gravel.
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 02:19pm
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Thanks for all the help. I think I understand how I'll do the foundation.
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sparky30_06
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 02:40pm
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I would add a larger base under the deck block, I used 16" x 16" x 4" thick blocks from Lowes. Spreads the weight out more and makes adjustment of the block easier. If you are planning on elevating off the blocks make sure you add vertical stiffeners. My one end has a 8 or 10" vertical 4X4 and it started to lean. We pushed it back into place, added bracing and it's all good now
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Jim in NB
Member
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# Posted: 3 Feb 2017 04:59am
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Just build 2'x2' 6" deep concrete pads like in the picture. You can build them right on the existing ground. I built my camp (24x32). two sheds 12x14 and a 3 storey 8x12 water tower on them. Have had no problems at all with them - and we have lost of frost and moisture up here in New Brunswick. I used PT 2x6 laminated for the posts and beams so will have no issue with rot there. The pic shows one of the pads for the main building - had a pad built for it - big side hill. I fill the pads half full then put in some rebar. My son and I put the 15 pads down for the main camp, mixing on site, in less than four hours.
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 3 Feb 2017 07:49am
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Sounds good Jim, About how many pads would I need for a 12'x12' cabin?
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Poppa Kohl
Member
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2017 10:23pm
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Couple of points: Four foundation points is all you need for a 12 x12 shed - if you use (2x10) pressure treated boards for your floor. If it was me, I would dig 4 holes each 2 ft deep & put (6x6) pressure treated posts in. I would build the floor before I concreted the posts in – then trim the posts to the proper height – this allows you to move the posts slightly to keep everything square and build the floor level.
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2017 08:47am
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thanks Poppa Kohl
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leonk
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2017 09:06am
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I disagree with Poppa K.
Do we know the location? 2' is not enough in the north.
I prefer to build simple structures on blocks, easier to fix any issues. I also don't agree with the advice of cementing the peers AFTER the building the floor, it is backward, what prevents the builder from builing a level floor..? go buy a level 
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sparky30_06
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2017 10:21am
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Do NOT cement the posts into the ground. The posts will rot off extremely fast were the post and top of the concrete meet. You are better off pouring the concrete post with a flat top and using a post anchor with an air gap. Also this way you can adjust your post length and jack it up later if needed.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2017 11:32am
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The lumber yard in Huntsville north of toronto is now selling
18x 18 x3 cabin pads They sound substantial to me so I ordered 12 to make 6 peers for my spring bunky build
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Poppa Kohl
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2017 03:58pm
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A couple of good points made on my post - I could have been a lot clearer. Having lived in his neck of the woods, I understand the shale soil. The top part of this soil can heave a good bit in the winter – hence the suggestion to dig down two feet. Putting in the posts and building the joist framing before anchoring the posts allows one to move the posts a few inches one direction or another – not every one gets it square the first time. The concrete just anchors the very bottom part of the post – well below the wet area. Here in my area (Virginia), my 16x16 shop sits on six solid blocks setting on 8 inches of compacted sand – no problems after 12 years. True, there are better methods – but for his 8x8 shed most any will work.
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2017 04:11pm
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the cabin will be 12x12
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Jim in NB
Member
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# Posted: 17 Feb 2017 08:04am
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You would only need four pads if that is the method you are going to use. The pads "Just" talks about would be heavy - you would need to be able to place them from a vehicle very close to their final resting spot. I had fun with making the pads.
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chuck172
Member
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# Posted: 17 Feb 2017 11:01am
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Your'e talking 4-2'x2' 6" deep concrete pads Jim?
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Jim in NB
Member
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# Posted: 18 Feb 2017 10:09am
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Yes - that is what I have used. Will also use it for a sauna I am going to build this summer and storage/bunky on another property on the ocean.
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fitzpatt
Member
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# Posted: 22 Feb 2017 09:19am
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From my experience for a 12x12 all you need is 3/4 inch gravel placed below your deck blocks. I also used adjustable supports that enable adjustments for leveling. Many of the above ideas are great, but for such a small structure overkill IMO. Good luck!
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AKfisher
Member
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# Posted: 24 Feb 2017 04:27pm - Edited by: AKfisher
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Here is my sauna in Alaska where I have Rail Road ties 4' deep and cemented. It is 8*16. As you can see it is heavy, hasn't heaved yet...
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