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Ditchmonkey
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2017 01:47pm
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I am trying to figure out something unique and not-too-expensive for the interior of my cottage build. My latest idea is to use #3 pine board and run it through the table saw to create a small step so the boards will overlap. Has anyone done anything like this? I know in a normal house this kind of siding is usually applied on top of drywall for fire code. For your small cabins, did you skip the drywall?
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Ontario lakeside
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2017 03:47pm - Edited by: Ontario lakeside
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We used plain pine boards in our cabin. we made sure it was very dry and then just installed it butted one board to the next. no shiplap at all. Worked well for us and we like the look. I have a video that shows our interior paneling "cabin build part 5"
https://www.youtube.com/user/OntarioLakeside/featured
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OutdoorFanatic
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2017 08:00pm
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You can pick up some shiplap at lowes or home depot or your local lumber yard for short money.
Or if you want to go thru the hassle you can pick up a cheap router and a rabbit bit and ship lap the boards your self..
https://youtu.be/0QST1wUP-ts
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darz5150
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2017 09:04pm
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I used laminate flooring to finish a wall in the kitchen. You can go horizontal, vertical, or 45 degree angle. Lots of finishes/styles to choose from.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2017 08:20am
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I used 6" wide, 5/8's thick V groove board to do my cathedral ceiling which could have been installed backwards as the back face is a lap cut edge, meaning no notches. Now this was purchased from a local milling operation and not a big box retailer which makes a huge difference. I was originally going to go with the "shiplap edge" finish but Maggie talked me into the alternate V Cut side.
I was going to make my own but after doing the math (time, materials & tools required) it worked out better buying from a local mill.
Consider the amount of work and costs... a decent DADO blade for your table saw will come out between 75-125 (75-80 will get you a good Freud) Then of course the time to do 2 sides of each board to make the Lap. A Featherboard is a MUST.
Using a Router, you would need to have it on a table and well secured, 2 cuts per board again, after 6' length you get Grumble Factor. You would really need a Really Good BIT as you want good clean cuts.
After all that you still have to sand, stain, finish.
I'm just mentioning this so you can consider the differences in cost. IF you already have the woodworking tools, blades etc, space to do the work and helper (8' board wiggling on edge, on a router table = get a helper) then it may work out best for you & your pocket book. If you need to buy kit and jump through the hoops while having to store, etc, you may be better off $ buying precut.
NOTE that Big Box stores have only limited choices (profiles) and many of them are thin 3/8's and often cracked up in the cellophane packaging. Look at the local mills and lumber yards
Also consider how / what you will stain / finish with as 95% odds you will want to do that before installing any of it. I went with Shellac because it's very forgiving, dries in 15 minutes, won't make you stoned or sick ! and it gave the finish I was after.
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benny8
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2017 09:57pm
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I have a friend who works at a mill and he gets me planer-outs for 18 cents per board foot for shiplap or vgroove pine. My Sugar cabin will be floored, exterior sided, interior finished and roof subfloored with the pine. Can't go wrong with that price. These are 2nds from the mill that look better than the junk Home Cheapo sells for Premium.
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grover
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2017 09:24am
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Check craigslist for your area. That's how we found our pine shiplap. We got it at around $.95 per sq ft. It's not a true shiplap but is as Steve explained. It is T & G with a square edge so it looks like shiplap.
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Kudzu
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2017 11:00am
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Knotty pine or spruce both look great.
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Malamute
Member
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2017 02:04pm
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Check prices from several places on No 3 T&G. Ive used it on walls and ceilings many times, the price is better than the regular No2. Zero added time making lap edges.
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Cabinmonkey
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# Posted: 16 Mar 2017 04:16pm
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I used board and batten:
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FishHog
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# Posted: 16 Mar 2017 08:13pm - Edited by: FishHog
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T&G (low grade with knots) with a quick light white wash brightened it up a lot. I really like it.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 16 Mar 2017 08:15pm
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no clue why my pic's flip when I post them. They never used to but you get the idea.
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frankpaige
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# Posted: 16 Mar 2017 09:42pm
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I wanted something light inside. I used white beadboard for the interior. I would have loved to do board and batten outside, tad pricey here.
Different ideas makes the world go around.
Good Hunting all
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rayyy
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# Posted: 17 Mar 2017 01:04pm
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Last time I bought 6"t&g pine,it was 35. cents a foot.I went to put this in my new building and,,,,Hooow.,leeeee,cooooow!65.cents a foot now.so I've been using 6" cedar fence slats,still expensive but look'so great.
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don62
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# Posted: 17 Mar 2017 02:01pm
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I went to Home Depot a week ago and they had knotty pine t&g pre-finished on clearance for 8.00 a bundle of 4- 8 footers. Normal price was 32.00, I bought all they had, I'll come up with a use for it someday...
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Greenland South
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# Posted: 17 Mar 2017 03:14pm
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What I did was find a local sawmill and bought a trailer load of rough cut live edge aspen. Not sure how many board feet I got for $200 but the load was 6' wide 5' high and 16' long.
Took it home ran it through the table saw to get 5.5" and 3.5" boards. Stacked it up for a few weeks in the shop with a fan blowing across it and a dehumidifier running. Got it down to 12% moisture contact then ran it through the planer to wind up at 3/4"
After the planer I used a hand held router fitted with a router bit to cut the tongue on all the boards then changed the router bit to cut the groove. A hand held router at this step was the key to getting a consistent tongue and groove on the boards, because the router easily follows the contour of the board. This way warped or crooked boards can still be used.
I did all the trim and our screen veranda in a 2800 sq ft house and I'll be doing the same in the cabin. Total time invested was 12 hours of machine time. If you have the tools available, do it yourself.
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 21 Mar 2017 02:16pm
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Wow - I never knew aspen (poplar) would look so good. Great work!
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Ditchmonkey
Member
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# Posted: 30 Mar 2017 02:20pm
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Thanks for the replies. Now that I have almost survived this crazy winter I'm back at it.
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rayyy
Member
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# Posted: 2 Apr 2017 08:28am
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I have used a lot of 6" toung & Grove but the price has doubled lately so i've found a cheaper way.I use the 5/8" X 6"X 6'fence slats from home depo.they are $1.55 each and look pretty good for rough cut planking.
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Wendigolake
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# Posted: 2 Apr 2017 07:12pm
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My cottage is in Northern Ontario. I found a mill In Trout Creek, which is about a half hour drive, south of North Bay. I can get good quality 6" T&G Pine for $0.55/ft. They cut them in 6',8', 10' and 16ft lengths. You need to order ahead and they will have your order ready. I have bought 500 boards of different lengths so far and the quality has been great. Just thought I would pass the info on and maybe it will help someone with their project.
http://www.tcpmill.com
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