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Tarmetto
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 08:25pm - Edited by: Tarmetto
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Ok, here's the layout. Full perimeter block with 16" x 16" piers on roughly 6.5' centers...all at the same elevation (this is already finished). This is for a 1.5 story.
If you were framing the joists using dimensional lumber (2x8), by yourself (as in me...just me)...how would you do it?
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 08:39pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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I would run a girder across the pier pads long ways, making a splice over the pad itself, then run the joist the 20 foot direction every 16" OC. I guess with the 2 girders spaced as they are, run a 16 footer and then a 4 footer, spliced over a girder. This would allow a 12" overlap at the splice. The joist would run over top of the girder, overlapping at splice and nailed into the girder and blocking over the girder between the joist. Nail splices together and onto the girder with toe nails.
Is this built already? I think 2X8, you can go 12 feet or real close to it. Maybe one girder down the middle and overlap 12 footers at the center at the 10 foot mark? The 2 girders would get you a solid floor, but I know the 10 foot spans on a 2X8 with 16" OC is acceptable/code too. Half the blocking too. :D
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Tarmetto
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 08:54pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech I would run a girder across the pier pads long ways, making a splice over the pad itself, then run the joist the 20 foot direction every 16" OC. I guess with the 2 girders spaced as they are, run a 16 footer and then a 4 footer, spliced over a girder. This would allow a 12" overlap at the splice. The joist would run over top of the girder, overlapping at splice and nailed into the girder and blocking over the girder between the joist. Nail splices together and onto the girder with toe nails. Is this built already? I think 2X8, you can go 12 feet or real close to it. Maybe one girder down the middle and overlap 12 footers at the center at the 10 foot mark? The 2 girders would get you a solid floor, but I know the 10 foot spans on a 2X8 with 16" OC is acceptable/code too. Half the blocking too. :D
Yes, block is already laid...or about finished anyway.
I think you missed that the piers are at the same elevation as the perimeter, so I can't run girders on top of the piers and set the joists on top. they have to tie to the side of the girder.
Here's my idea, just have no idea about code.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 09:08pm
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Tarmetto- yes, you can hang the joists off the girders. It's a lot of work nailing all those hangers, but at this point you'll have to since the piers are at the same level as the footings. Use 4x6 for the girders, and there is no need for 2x8 joists cause the span is so little. Use 2x6 common.
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Just
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 09:09pm
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2 6x6 beams crossed with 2x6 x 8 ft. joists overlapping at the beams or you could use 16 ft 2x6 and a2x6 8ft. alternating ever other joist.I would ask my inspector first if you must pass inspection.
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Tarmetto
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 09:14pm - Edited by: Tarmetto
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Quoting: bldginsp Tarmetto- yes, you can hang the joists off the girders. It's a lot of work nailing all those hangers, but at this point you'll have to since the piers are at the same level as the footings. Use 4x6 for the girders, and there is no need for 2x8 joists cause the span is so little. Use 2x6 common.
I wonder if I doubled the 2x6 girders, and ran a 2x8 sill plate full length under them, would that work as a ledger being such a short span. Possibly eliminating the need for hangers. Maybe use timber screws to secure the sill across the short open spans.
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Just
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 09:43pm
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cut 5.5 in. off your piers with a cement saw
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Tarmetto
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 09:48pm
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Quoting: Just cut 5.5 in. off your piers with a cement saw
Ouch! x 10 piers. I think I'd rather nail 120 joist hangers....LOL!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 09:57pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: Just cut 5.5 in. off your piers with a cement saw
Bingo, I would do this, a diamond bit, it will go much quicker than you think. Be stronger in the end IMHO
As for the girder, defiantly a doubler o maybe triple.
As for pier columns, are they on a pier pad? Can they be removed (column from the pad itself) or are they cemented in? It this blocking or concrete? Because as log as the pads are lower, you can make up the space with a wood column vs the cement ones you have now.
I would do the concrete saw, it will go so much faster, I bet you'd be done in no more thna a few hours. Have some water ont he blade, dont breathe that dust (silicosis) and the inspector wont have an issue signing off.
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Tarmetto
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 10:28pm
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Piers are 16" block on concrete footings, perimeter is 8" block.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2017 10:47pm
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Quoting: Tarmetto Piers are 16" block on concrete footings, perimeter is 8" block.
Perimeter is perfect, the pier pads and piers is the issue. Can the pier column be removed, ie broken away, then just use a wooden post from pier pad to bottom of girder. Or a laser line and grab a diamond blade and saw all piers at a point low enough then just make up the difference with a wooden post to bottom of girder.
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