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Mark1
Member
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# Posted: 26 Dec 2016 10:08pm
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Hey guys, I'm looking into buying a wood stove for a 16x20 cabin with 9 foot walls and and 12x16 loft. Through my research so far, the "hobbit stove" (although I am not sure is available in Canada), the "cubic mini grizzly", and the "dwarf 4K" are the top stoves on the market to comfortably heat a small cabin. I am in Canada and looking for any suggestions of what people have used in their cabins and which stoves they would or wouldn't recommend. Looking for a stove that takes up little room, heats comfortably (does not cook us out!), and reasonably priced to buy in Canada or order in.
Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks and Merry Christmas
Mark
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fiftyfifty
Member
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# Posted: 26 Dec 2016 10:28pm
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Depends on where you are in Canada. At our cabin it gets down to -35 C at times, although we've never stayed there any colder than -20 C. Ours is 16 x 24 with a loft. We insulated the walls with fiberglass and sprang for spray foam in the cathedral ceiling. We have the smallest Jotul, which is a lot bigger than the stoves you are talking about, and it's only enough if you are constantly feeding it (as in multiple times a night). We are going to trade it out for a True North TN20.
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Mark1
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 12:38am
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We do have a back up electric heater for really cold nights since we are in Alberta but you do raise a good point, I am simply looking at the square feet the stove will heat without taking in account our horrible winters, why have you decided to go with the true north tn20? Looks like a great stove, a bit bigger than I originally thought I might need but I'm very interested
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 08:43am
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I wonder if a good method is to figure out what size for the sq footage and then multiply by 2, cause you can always build a smaller fire? Reserve capability?
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Mark1
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 11:14am
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Good point Dave. On he flip side, the less floor space the stove takes up the better but I might have to make a compromise for our weather.
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 12:32pm
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You don't mention if you have cathedral ceilings or how compartmentalised your cabin is. Air circulation / flow is essential for proper balanced heating. There are many ways of doing that but it is all dependent on your place.
I installed a http://www.flame-intl.com/product.aspx?Id=597&CategoId=1 which uses 16" logs and it's quite an amazing stove plus it has the flat top so I can put my griddle on there. I got it on sale @ Home Hardware for $629. My cabin is 20x24 with cathedral ceilings. I'm building my own version of this "Heat stick" http://www.heatstick.com/_heat%20stk03.htm
Below is my 1st firing after I installed it, it's sitting on a 28"x32" stove board, the tin behind is 48" high, 1" spaced off the wall which has MgO Board on it which is far superior & 1/2 the price to cement or other. ref: http://magobp.ca/benefits/ I should mention that even when the stove is at 450 degrees the tin behind is just warm, in fact I can touch the back shield on the stove without getting burned, the heat goes where it is supposed to and the reburn system really makes the difference !
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 12:46pm
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Quoting: DaveBell cause you can always build a smaller fire?
I'm not so sure that will really work. You would have to tend the fire constantly to keep it from going out. What all woodstoves do best with is a good bed of coals
I have a Morso Squirrel stove, 30,000 btus, upright so it takes less space, takes 10" logs, small firebox, is supposed to heat 800- 1000 square feet. Right now I'm sitting in front of it in my 300 sq ft cabin, it's 23F outside, but my insulation is not complete. Floor and ceiling are insulated but not the walls, so this is not a really good test, but I'm feeding it constantly to keep the place at 60F.
I'm sure it will do better with the insulation in, but still it has a tiny firebox and you just can't get much wood in there. It's very well made and very tight, so it can be dampened way down to make the load last longer, but you damper it too far and it just smolders. If I'm not happy when the cabin is complete I may swap it out for the smallest stove I can find that is well made and will take a 16" log.
Being able to damper well is critical. Some cheaper stoves have so many cracks it's impossible to damper them down. Best solution might be a slightly oversized stove that dampers well enough to slow the fire.
I'm going to also instal a propane wall heater. I'll use that if necessary to supplement the woodstove, but what they are best for is clicking on by thermostat at 2AM when the woodstove slows down. Also it will help with initial startup, and to take the edge off in spring or fall when the woodstove would be too much.
Then, if my budget allows, I'll get a small heat pump (if I get on grid). They will provide heat down at fairly low temperatures, operate on a thermostat, and provide AC in the summer. That's a lot of stuff for a dinky cabin but I want to be comfortable when/if I move here-
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Rebel300r
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 01:51pm
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Hi Mark, I have a 24x20 cabin, 1/2 loft, SE Alaska. I have a Jotul 118 and it is about perfect size for us when really cold. Summer, Spring though it is too much!
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Julie2Oregon
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 03:49pm
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Propane. Or pellet, if you have electricity or buy one that can be run off a battery. I was going to spring for a Wiseway pellet stove because they are designed for off-grid but, alas. US Stove bought out the Wiseway inventor, they're no longer made here in Oregon (China), and I've read recent reviews from very disappointed purchasers.
I just stopped using wood to heat my 10 x 16 shabin with half loft, half cathedral ceiling. Warm and cozy in moderate winter temps but it required WAY too much monitoring and feeding. When it was in the low teens and single digits, I had to sleep next to the thing. Sleep is a misnomer -- I'd get maybe 2 hours at a time.
It was a Colorado Cylinder stove, purported to keep a big 12×14 TENT cozy in below zero weather, and to get a 4-6 hour burn. I'd love to know how. I had it installed straight through the roof with Duravent stove pipe, triple wall chimney, etc.
It finally took its toll on my health and well-being so I gave up and went to my backups -- propane and a ceramic space heater. It's nice to sleep all night uninterrupted and not to wake up cold.
Was chatting with the guy at the store by my property yesterday. He asked me how it was going with wood and wasn't surprised when I told him. Apparently, most people use propane or kerosene out here. Because, yeah, wood's a huge pain.
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spoofer
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 04:47pm
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I have a Jotul 118 in my 24x14 shack. It is just right. Mediocre insulation at best.
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Mark1
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2016 09:06pm
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Where did you purchase the jotul 118? Is there a provider in Canada? And what's the approximate price if I was to install myself?
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silverwaterlady
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2016 02:33am
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We have a propane fireplace because we could not get insured if we had wood heat.
We almost made a huge mistake in assuming we needed a certain size stove. I am grateful I spoke to the pros at the stove store after asking us questions about our cabin,size etc.. They recommend a stove that was one step up in btu's from the stove we were going to purchase. Had We made the mistake of ordering the first stove it would not have been adequate enough to heat our cabin.
Not sure where you plan on buying your stove but you really need to talk to a person educated in wood stove sales whom will find the correct stove for you.
This is going to be one of the most important purchases you will make for your cabin...there is no room for error.
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Gary O
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2016 07:54am
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Git a used earth stove
new pipes
toss 3 or 4 good sized rounds in before bed
warm all night
...and a good part of the morning
not a good suggestion for those concerned with codes and insurance
but, dang
earth stoves ROCK!
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Atlincabin
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2016 10:07am
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Another vote for Jotul. We have a 602 in our 20x24 cabin in Northern BC and it seems to work well for spring, summer, fall (we're not there in winter at all). We have a lot of insulation (big logs, plus 12" in both floor and ceiling) which helps greatly in holding the heat. I put two pieces of metal (1/2" and 1" from the wall) as heat shields to allow closer placement of the stove to the wall. Jotuls seem to be available from many dealers across Canada.
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spoofer
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2016 10:23am
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Mark 1
Sorry for the delayed answer. I bought it used on CL for a killer deal. Had to have my neighbor make new inside side plates for it. The original ones were cracked from it being over fired. Its an older one from the late 70's I think. It has green enamel.
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2016 10:35am - Edited by: Steve_S
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My Jotul 3TD will be in the yard sale this spring needs a cleaning, stove black (or possible to change the colour if you want) and new glass for the door, which is around $90 or less. First dibs to our Cabin Folk here so if anyone "local" is interested... I'm between Pembroke - Renfrew areas. It all comes apart (unscrews) for transport, cleaning etc.... North of $550 + delivery if I have to trek far.
Looks like this below
Jotul 3TD Series
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2016 12:30pm
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I used an olde 80s no name stove. Oversized for well insulated 12x20. But plus 35c at -30c. Priceless. And wood is free for me. I move it against the wall for the summer.
I use a 12k btu propane heater for shoulder season.night time.
Today it is easy relatively easy to install an air source heat pump. And run it on solar. The gree crown series for canada. Good to -30C. Low amp draw at 240.
Great teamed with lithium batteries, the new high frequency inverters.
Don't get locked into ye olde solar thinking. Seriously consider all electric ashp heat now. Particularly if it is 3 season. Shoulder season heat. Summer a/c. Teamed with a wood stove....
( I am installing the gree into a friends 12x20 this summer. very well insulated. Lithium etc. Will know more on performance next year.)
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Malamute
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2016 11:22pm - Edited by: Malamute
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I have an older Blaze King. Its way more stove than Id need for my 14x18 cabin, but,....I just build less fire. Got it used at a yard sale for $300. I use maybe, a little less than 1/4 of the actual firebox size worth of wood. For most times, slab pine (the first cuts from the sawmill to square up logs for lumber) are plenty, Ive also used scraps from house building, like 2x6 and log siding scraps. I can build an all night fire with either scraps or mill slabs, if I do it right.
If you lay your wood tightly together on the bottom front of the stove, packed tightly together, say, 2/3 of the front to back depth of the stove, then about 8-10 inches deep in tightly laid wood, then lay a small starter fire (like a small tipi style campfire) on top and let it burn down into the wood, and damp the stove way down once its going, I get all night heat from it with no other work. If it gets zero-ish F, I use a half log for overnight, if 20 below, a full round sometimes, that's on top of coals already going from the previous fire lay. At 20 below I may open the door 3 times in 24 hrs, at zero to 20s above, twice a day total. Above that I rarely open the door more than once a day. If I don't damp it down enough when its first starting it will cook me, like this evening. Need to use one of the stove pipe dampers because of the wind perhaps. This works with my Blaze King, which is an airtight with a thermometer damper to allow air once it starts to cool some. Others report that basic method works with other stove types also, even open fireplaces or campfires. I haven't had any other stove to try since I startd doing it.
I was fussing with the fire a lot, and feeding it a lot more before changing how I built the fire. Saw some stupid article about "upside down fires". Build it wrong, or at least what everyone thinks is wrong, only it works, and uses way less wood, as it burns much slower.
Ive had a bit less than a cord of 9-12" full round log pieces left over from building my little cabin about 11 years ago, I still have about half or a third of it, I use the full rounds so seldom, just don't need them once I changed how I built fires. I use about 2 cords of mill slab wood a year.
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machzman
Member
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# Posted: 30 Dec 2016 05:55pm
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i have the amish baker choice
great stove
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ShabinNo5
Member
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# Posted: 30 Dec 2016 08:13pm
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The Shabin is 16X20 with a 10X11 loft. We found a Jotul Model 8 on Craigslist. So far it is working great.
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fiftyfifty
Member
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2016 12:30pm
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"why have you decided to go with the true north tn20?"
For a few reasons:
1. You load in the wood straight back, perpendicular to the front of the stove. Compared to the "normal way" I find this easier.
2. Totally full size firebox. Currently I have the Jotul 602cb, and it only accepts logs up to 16 inches max, not one bit over. I thought that would be good enough, because that's a full size log. But in reality, that means you have to aim for 15 inches when you cut, because if you aim for 16, some are going to be a bit over. Cuts take time and effort if you do them yourself, and if you buy wood it means you have to re-cut much of what you get.
3. Well made and a good value for what you get.
4. I cook on top of my woodstove and am finding that the Jotul 602 has only enough room for one smallish fry pan. I would like to be able to put on a bigger one or 2 smaller ones etc.
5. I like the look of it.
I plan to build a small guest cabin, ~160 square ft + half loft, and will move the jotul 602 into there.
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