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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2016 05:23pm - Edited by: Wyodeputy
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Hello cabin dreamers … thought I'd share some photos of my chainsaw milling. This seems the appropriate place to do it. I'll admit, I have a sickness…. some people look at a tree and see the years it took to grow to size or the shade it provides, etc. I see a tree and wonder how many board feet I can get out of it.
I started a little project, this summer. I'm stockpiling lumber for a small cabin I'm gonna build at home. I want to do the entire thing out of lumber I cut with my mill. (This thread has been posted on another website as well)
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2016 09:14am
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Quoting: Wyodeputy I'll admit, I have a sickness…. some people look at a tree and see the years it took to grow to size or the shade it provides, etc. I see a tree and wonder how many board feet I can get out of it.
Earth First! We'll log the other planets later. Just kidding.
Lot of work, but nice looking stock. What species is that one in the photos? And, I guess, the ratchet straps are and attempt to limit warping?
Nice job.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2016 10:35am
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Quoting: bldginsp What species is that one in the photos?
I'm guessing "spruce" not sure if its Engelmann or Sitka.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2016 04:24pm
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Quoting: Wyodeputy I'll admit, I have a sickness…. I'm stockpiling lumber for a small cabin I'm gonna build at home. I want to do the entire thing out of lumber I cut with my mill.
You do have a sickness. I've done a few projects with a chainsaw mill and I've decided I'm buying lumber for the next cabin build. That is slow going on creating 2x lumber.
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paulz
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2016 05:51pm
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My initial dream was to build my cabin out of wood I milled. I have both the Granberg (chainsaw) and a bandsaw mill. But as NorthRick said, cutting framing materials takes too much time. I did mill my girders, siding and deck boards and I'm in the middle of milling the deck boards for my new deck addition. My trees are all redwood, expensive stuff if you buy it retail.
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NorthRick
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2016 09:51pm
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Yeah, I still use mine. But, I mill timbers with it. Those are more expensive to buy and a lot harder to haul through the woods with a snowmobile. I've got a stack of 8"x8" and 10"x10" in lengths from 10 feet to 24 feet drying for the next cabin.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 24 Dec 2016 12:38am
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Great potable mill. (Porta-Mil)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hhs5L09vqek
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 24 Dec 2016 05:13pm - Edited by: Wyodeputy
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Thanks for all the views and comments gentlemen (and/or ladies if any be present) All of the trees used in this project are either Fir, Spruce or Pine. When I get to the interior, I'm considering doing it in Aspen … but still undecided on that.
Also, all of the trees used in this project are either dead standing, dead on the ground or green on the ground. I get my trees from ridge tops at 8500-10500 elevation. It gets windy up there and there are lots of blow downs. I prefer using green blow downs as it mills easier and there are usually no "checks" throughout the lumber.
If the lumber is green, then it requires "stickering" and strapping for the drying process. Later on in the process, you will see I use green 1x lumber for the roof and walls, and the drying process take place after the lumber is nailed in place.
I guess time is a relative concept. I have two jobs, a family of 5 and have been able to work on the project 2 to 3 times a week, usually for a half day or better. The project is 70% complete and have spent right around $100. Most of that has been for nails and tar paper. (I haven't accounted for gas and oil for the saw, but thats been about $50, for ethanol-free premium and off-the-shelf bar and chain oil from the hardware store)
I got windows for free and already have quite a few tools, they are as modern as a chainsaw is. I should mention here, this was not meant to be a primitive build except that ALL the lumber is coming from trees I milled myself so its definitely "rough-cut lumber". That was the goal when I set out … to see if I could do it … and its looking like I can and will. Its been a lot of fun.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 24 Dec 2016 05:25pm
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A few more of the milling process. I've changed the method for setting up the first cut. Will Malloff's book on chainsaw lumber making illustrated the method used here. I like it and will continue to use it as its really not length-limited as was the previous method I was using.
Really made a haul in a relatively short time. It really helps the process when you have the logs ready (which I prepared my last time out), since I only have one saw and would have to take off the mill for prep, then put it back on.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 5 Jan 2017 10:58am
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Got back to the mountains, in search of a large log for beams which will become skids for my shed. 6"x12"x15' is what I needed so only a sizable log would do. Found a green one with easy road access which was important because I'm a one man operation and those green beams are HEAVY.
I don't have a mini mill, so I can't mill vertically to take off the sides to make a cant. With the smaller 1x boards, I just take them home, screw a straight edge to them, and use a skill saw to take off the edges, but the cant is too thick for that and too heavy to move. Basically, this means I have to string the log, set nails, run my mill down the slabbing board, roll the log and repeat, three times. It was tough getting that log to balance on a natural edge, while I nailed some stabilizers to a neighboring log. Rolling the log by myself would of been impossible without a cant hook. Its a lot of work and did I mention, this log is HEAVY?
It was pretty cool watching that cant take shape.
After slabbing off the top piece, I set the mill for 6" depth and began the cut for the first beam.
Half the job is done here, no setup after this cut, just run the mill down the remaining cant for beam #2.
I made a few passes on the cutoff slabs with the mill set at 2" and was able to get a few usable pieces. After that, loaded up and headed out … I am beat!
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creeky
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# Posted: 5 Jan 2017 12:01pm
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Shadyacres
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# Posted: 5 Jan 2017 11:24pm
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A lot of work for sure but it will be worth it in the end. Many days I wish I were a little younger so I could tackle that job. I did buy myself a band saw mill last summer and I did toy with the idea of getting a chain saw mill a few years ago but didn't. Definitely hard work but it looks like you are having fun. Hope you have much success in your build and look forward to watching it transpire with plenty of pics.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2017 10:48pm
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Well, I don't have all the lumber that I need yet, but I'm running outta storage space and need to start using it to free up some room. Also I'm itching to get started on framing. So I started on the beams which will be skids for my shed/cabin.
Wanted to take off the corners so the skids under the cabin would slide easily. This cabin will be small enough (10' x14') to take with me when I move and I want to make it as easy as possible to winch onto a flat bed trailer.
They're not perfect but pretty darn close; dimensions are 6" x 12" x 14'.
I got really lucky on the ground being level on the length of the skids. I laid a level on top and the bubble said "GOOD" for both of them. But the right side skid is about 3" higher than the left so this is gonna require some digging. This isn't the exact spacing I'm gonna use but this gave me an idea of what I'm up against.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2017 10:51pm
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Today, I dug down 2-3 inches to level the right skid.
Time and money were the main concerns and convinced me to treat the skids with used motor oil. I would have rather put on several coats but I'm up against it and have to get going while I had the time. I rolled on one coat, seemed to soak in well enough but additional coats in the future will be difficult.
My main concern with the used motor oil was the smell but I worked around the skids all day and it really wasn't that bad. Glad I didn't use diesel.
Skids in place and squared up. Inside spacing is 6' apart and plan on an 18" overhang on both sides. I'm happy to finally get started on framing.
Floor framing is coming together.
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Ontario lakeside
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2017 12:00am
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Toyota
That ports mill looks really interesting, have you used one?
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2017 03:51pm - Edited by: Wyodeputy
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Lakeside, did you mean a Norwood "port a mill " ? Speaking strictly for me, I have never used one, just the Alaskan mill and some "stick time" on a woodmizer LT28. I gotta say, if I was every gonna move on from the Alaskan (and still keep in in the realm of chainsaw mills) I really like the Logosol M8. After all day running the alaskan low to the ground, that M8 off the ground looks pretty inviting. Would like to hear what Toyota has to say on the subject.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 16 Jan 2017 10:23am
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Started putting the floor boards down today. You would think this would be an easy process, but it didn't work out that way. Started at 10 am, worked straight through and got done at 5:30. So here are some of the problems I ran into. Many of the boards didn't dry straight. I had them stickered and banded with ratchet straps. Some warping and twisting still occurred. In the future, I think smaller bundles will minimize that. But now that I have twisted and warped boards to work with ao it slowed the install process. Some solutions included, making relief cuts into the back of the boards so they would lay flat.
Also, the width of the boards varied, so I had to rip boards to width, to match each course. This was due to poor planning on my part. Once the boards were down, I noticed variances in the thickness. Apparently, they either dried differently, or I didn't set my depths correctly on the Alaskan mill. I've noticed clamping the chainsaw bar tightly will cause the bar to bend and therefore change the depth of the cut across each board. So I believe there was some of that going on too and I've gotta remember to check that after making adjustments to the Alaskan Mill. I had as much as 1/4" difference from course to course. This is supposed to be a rustic cabin and mismatches are a part of that; but the thought of walking around inside and tripping on a tall floorboard bugged me too much. So, out came the planer.
I only took off what I needed to keep the boards right around 1" thick. I left most of the chain marks and rough sawn look intact planing only the underside, where I could.
I used, ring-shanked 8d nails. To fix the warping problem, I used bar clamps to tighten the gaps till it got about 4' deep, then switched to ratchet straps when the span was too deep for the clamps.
So, it wasn't a matter of just laying a floorboard down and nailing it in place. Each course offered these problems … glad to be done with this phase but will run into the same problems with the board and batten walls.
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paulz
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# Posted: 16 Jan 2017 11:50am
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Looking good. Yeah always more work with home milled lumber. I did board and batt siding, or a variation of, for my siding. I left the edges live on both, and thickness variations weren't all that important.
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upndown
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# Posted: 16 Jan 2017 08:04pm
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Love the look paulz!
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don62
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# Posted: 17 Jan 2017 02:14pm
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Awesome job, keep the pics coming...
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2017 09:40pm
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Quoting: paulz Looking good. Yeah always more work with home milled lumber. I did board and batt siding, or a variation of, for my siding. I left the edges live on both, and thickness variations weren't all that important.
Well that is a sweet looking cabin … sawmill?
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2017 09:51pm
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Back at working on the cabin.
Had to make more 2x4's from a stack of rough sawn boards I milled from dead and blown-down fir. I hope the shrinkage from moisture loss will be minimal, as these were not stickered and allowed to air dry but there may be some.
Notches for horizontal run 1x's (Exterior is gonna be board and batten)
Got a little off with the saw on this one.
Usually, building headers with "home depot lumber" requires sandwiching a piece of OSB in-between the 2x10's but it wasn't necessary using this custom cut lumber.
First wall ready to stand
Getting that first wall up really put the wind in my sails. I always get extra motivation at this point.
Back wall used up all my 2x4's. I've had a break from milling so I could get started on the building and clear out some of my lumber storage area but lots more milling is in my future. Time to sharpen some chains and head back up.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2017 01:18am
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Today, I put down the hammer, picked up the chainsaw loaded the truck and drove to the mountains. Quickly found a candidate for a ridge beam. Only problem, it was 100 yards from the truck and I wasn't sure I could drag it out of the woods after I got it cut to size. My cabin is 14' long. With a 1' overhang on each end, it had to be 16' long. Worst case scenario, leave it and bring a couple friends back to help load. So, here goes nuttin'.
Feeding the monster …
Looks like a 2x2 in this picture … actually 6x10x16.5' long.
It was a struggle but was able to drag it to the truck without recruiting any help.
Along with the beam, I was able to get some 2x lumber from the slabs and cutoff pieces.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2017 01:20am
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Today, I plumbed, lined and braced the walls in preparation for setting the ridge beam and rafters.
I'm happy to say I've done all the work on the project thus far. All the milling, cutting, trimming and framing was all me. But dragging that beam out of the woods was fresh on my mind, when I decided to recruit some help in getting it on the walls and then setting it in place. Even then, it was a tough job. (sorry no pictures of that process)
BTW, that little "H" brace was NOT the only bracing holding up that beam. There is a 4x6 block under each end of the beam.
Quite the junk show of bracing up there now, but with the exception of the blocking directly under the beam, everything is temporary and coming off once the roof framing is done.
Rafters coming next
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creeky
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2017 02:11pm
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Thx for detailing the process of milling so well. It's inspirational. My fingers are getting all chainsaw trigger happy and i'm searching kijiji for a similar mill.
Lots of aspen at my place that need clearing up. And I need siding.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2017 03:43pm
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Cut and set the rafters today.
These 2x6's have been stickered, stacked, ratchet strap banded and drying since June. I was really happy with the results. No twisting, or bowing, all of them were really straight. That DID NOT happen with the 1x's used on the floor.
I like the look of a steeper roof, and an 8/12 pitch gives me the option of a small loft area. Nowhere near big enough to stand up in, but plenty of room for storage.
I left the tails long for now. Once I decide final window sizes and sill heights, I'll cut them off.
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Kudzu
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# Posted: 5 Feb 2017 05:54pm
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Dude, you got some skills, great work.
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Rdkng07
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2017 03:13pm
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Very nice, thanks for sharing.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2017 08:42pm
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Hello all!
I've been on the project a little while and recently finished the roof framing. It won't look like much but all the little details had to be attended to. Got the rafter tails cut with a 2 foot overhang. Would have like to go with more overhang but the building is gonna have to be moved (someday) and I'm already over the limit for moving over the highway. Hopefully it'll be a short move, whenever that day comes.
I did bird blocking (that's what we used to call it) with an angle to match the 8/12 roof pitch, a double fascia with the same angle and barge rafter, took plenty of time. Being a one man show, all those trips up and down ladder, made for slow going. Additionally, my lumber didn't cooperate and I had to do lots of sizing, trimming, cutting etc. One of the drawbacks of rough cut materials. Despite all that, the roof lines are pretty straight and I'm happy with the progress (as slow as it is.)
So, I'm ready for decking the roof with 1x. I don't have it cut yet but have the trees scoped out. Lots of work ahead of me. Thanks for checking in on the progress.
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Wyodeputy
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2017 08:44pm
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We've had a serious delay of snowfall in the mountains this fall. Notice all the leaves have fallen off the trees but no snow and this is about 9000' in elevation. This area should be inaccessible right now. Its definately been to my benefit, as I didn't think I'd still be cutting this late into the fall. I figured finishing the cabin would have to wait till next spring/summer. So I'm really trying to hustle to get the material down and milled up for my roof and board and batten walls while mother nature is cooperating.
Back to the mountains to mill roof decking today:
This ratcheting wrench has been great for quicker adjustments to the Alaskan mill, as opposed to the "scrench" used on the saw which also fits the nuts on the mill. The ratcheting wrench is especially helpful, when the mill is set down around 3/4" or less as I'm still able to make adjustments to the mill's bar clamps at those depth settings. (Impossible to do with the scrench, unless you raise the mill up.)
Rather than take a 12 volt battery to the milling site, I use my truck's battery to run my grinder for blade touchup.
Got about all I could outta that log … look at all that sawdust.
I can't say enough about this saw. It just goes and goes and goes. So much power. I bought it new 10 years ago and have had zero problems with it.
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