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saltbranch
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# Posted: 7 Dec 2010 10:10pm
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I have a carport that I am thinking of converting to a cabin. Building a wood foundation on piers, setting carport up on it, securing it. Build 2x4 frames allowing for windows between the uprites then enclose the outside with siding, insulate and panel the inside.
here is a pic of one similar to the 1 I have. Mine is 5' tall at the corners
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saltbranch
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# Posted: 7 Dec 2010 10:12pm
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Forgot to say, I want your opinions please on this idea,
thx
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Borrego
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# Posted: 7 Dec 2010 10:31pm
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I would scrap that idea and do it right... You are not saving any money or making anything easier..... just my opinion....
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 7 Dec 2010 11:17pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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My off the top of my head first thought is it would not be worth the effort to work around the steel framework and roof restrictions. . The basic shell of a small cabin, from foundation up through the roof is the quickest part of the build , in my opinion. I am always amazed at how fast I can make that happen. Then I'm also sort of amazed at how long it takes me to complete the interior.
Take the roof. A metal roof will have water condensing on the underside once it is closed in and warmer inside than the outside air. I would not trust only insulation and a vapor barrier under the insulation to keep the underside of the skin dry. The only real way to get around that with a metal skin on a steel frame like that would be spray foam on the underside. Okay, there are ways by stretching tar paper or building wrap under the metal and placing insulation under it. Is it worth the effort? I say no, but OMMV. (Others Mileage may vary).
With five feet at the corners I'd think you would have to build a short wall anyhow.
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fooboo
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# Posted: 8 Dec 2010 04:56am
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+1 on the idea that you won't be saving money by using wood to close in the carport.
You worded your original post to imply that you already own the carport. If so, then I think your only realistic path to close the carport would be to go back to Superior Carports and ask them what additional steel components you need to buy from them to close in the carport and make it into an all metal building. Since a big chunk of Superior's business is in utility buildings, not just carports, they should be able to help you. The price to close in the building with steel components that are purpose built for this will probably cost more than an all wood cabin, but perhaps you can get close. So, if you must use your carport, I think that's your only path to a waterproof and windproof structure.
In the end, I think you'd be better off selling the carport and use that money towards building an all wood cabin.
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saltbranch
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# Posted: 8 Dec 2010 07:53am
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Thanks for the advice.
I do own the carport, its at my home currently. Think I set it up at our property for tractor/equipment storage as it sounds like it would be a waste of time to turn into a cabin.
Thanks again for the input.
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cabingal3
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# Posted: 9 Dec 2010 07:54am
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well up at our woods.there is a family there that used this idea.i think one of the things u may consider and i am sure u have...is the kind of weather in your area.i am waiting to see this familys place up at our woods now that there is snow.we have alot of heavy snow loads and the temps are freezing in the nite and then snowing and then in the day.the temps get up enough for it all to melt and then ice up ...so cars and mobile homes and these kinds of carport covers have crushed under the load.but they did live in a place just as u are speaking of doing.
this family up at our woods...did have canvas sides and they lived in this place they made for the summer while they were building there little home to live in.so now all there stuff is in the carport building and i am sort of worried for them...but as i say-this is just my thoughts but i dont know much.seems like a cool idea if weather is good.its another way and there is more than one way to do something.
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saltbranch
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# Posted: 9 Dec 2010 12:17pm
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I'm in south Texas, so snow is not much of a concern. Heat is though, it would have to be well insulated for the summer months around here.
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cabingal3
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# Posted: 9 Dec 2010 12:25pm
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I see.yes u are correct.i think its a cool idea.
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wvcookieman
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2015 05:40pm
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did you convert your carport into a cabin?? I am considering doing the same thing and am wondering how to go about it..
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Cowracer
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2015 03:32pm
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I would use the carport as a shelter for the cabin you build underneath it, then scrap the carport. I would have loved to have my cabin under cover during construction.
Tim
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Don_P
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2015 06:47pm
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Hmm, build a deck under it to create a covered porch to work under and then attach the cabin to that.
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OutdoorFanatic
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2015 08:04pm
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They do that up here all the time, Kind of.
Because the snow we get usually crushes a camper, most people build a port over it and turn it into a cabin. After the 3 walls are done they simply pull out the camper and finish the last wall.
Then they tow the camper to the dump.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2015 10:35pm
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These metal carport structures seem to be designed by the same guys that design camper roofs, losing it as a temporary or a porch roof, it wouldn't be a huge deal if it fails. I wouldn't want one for a roof over a building.
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2015 10:54am
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The irony might be that you turn it into a cabin, start using it so much, that you then need to buy or build a carport...
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saltbranch
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# Posted: 23 Jul 2016 08:19pm
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I am back to revisit this idea. I will be moving forward with it in the next few months. I can buy a 20' x 21' x 12' at corners with eaves with metal roof and metal sides for 1995.00 and they will build the structure on my supplied deck. Then I will add the end walls,doors windows and alot of insulation. The property is 100 miles from home, I am tired of RV's. I have limited time to work there and this, for me it seems a good solution as I can enclose it quick and work on it as I have time. I am not a carpenter and building a structure like this ground up is not in my skill set at this time.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 23 Jul 2016 09:48pm
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I see what you are saying, but with all due respect, I would still argue against it.
The skills you would need to adapt walls etc. to such a structure are no less in number or complexity than framing up a small simple building.
$2000 that the carport costs will probably buy all the framing lumber, roofing and siding you need.
But perhaps it works best for you. Keep us posted with pics of your progress.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 24 Jul 2016 08:16am
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I second BldgInsp's comment.
That being said, building something if you've never done it, can be quite daunting but also extremely satisfying, as most here can tell you... Kind of hard to replace that feeling any other way ! To that end, you may want to consider possibly trying to do your own thing (start small) and working up.
There are heaps of sites and tons of video's, books etc to guide (and confuse) you but often that just adds to the overwhelming feeling we all get.
I found Shanon's site a few years back and he keeps adding material and answering peoples questions and I must say doing a darn good job of it. Here is the link to his Site @ http://www.house-improvements.com/ His video's explain all the essentials and even shows you the tricks that make life easier. NOTE that he's Canadian and some of our terms differ a tad but it's all the same anyways.
Have a gander at some of his video's, like Framing Walls etc and you'll see it really isn't all that tough. Besides, it would also be helpful for you to see how to build your End Walls and Doorway for your project as it is right now.
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Just
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# Posted: 24 Jul 2016 08:57am
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If you think it will keep you dry, warm, and safe, its your choice .
Sometimes vanity gets in our way !!!
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Rebel300r
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# Posted: 24 Jul 2016 09:12am
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Salt, sometimes doing SOMETHING is better than waiting to do it right. I get that but since many have concerns, how about building this a bit away from the "perfect" cabin site. That way, if it does not work as expected, you can use it as a base for a more permanent cabin?
Scott
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saltbranch
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2016 12:08am
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Thanks for the link and the concerns. My old carport has been taken down and setback up and I have had no trouble with it. The metal has lasted fine with no rust etc and its got to be close to 15 years old . I am going to buy one that is 12' at eaves and to be honest my thought was, if this works out good and can buy a 10', slide under eave and continue to build another room. This will suite my purpose for now and it is being built near the 40' sea containers I have for storage. Worst case, this will make a cool little shop. Who knows, maybe I will get more confident in my skills after this project. I am hoping to start in October. Let this 100 plus daily degree heat pass.
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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2016 06:36am
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I've seen several car ports turning into horse barns. I'm actually getting ready to enclose one for a horse down here in East Texas. They are similar in construction to the versa tube buildings.
I feel your pain with the 100 plus degree days. My cabin build west of San Antonio is one hold till things cool off. I did loose 10 lbs trying to get it dried in beginning of July working in the high heat. Guess that was a plus
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JDPugh
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# Posted: 27 Jul 2016 08:56pm - Edited by: JDPugh
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For a couple of years, I worked for a company that sold these units as an add on to the primary business of manufacturing and selling metal roof panels. Designed and sold many during that time for sheds, workshops, boat houses, RV ports, carports. Did a few as a quick build shelter in Haiti. If yours is as I expect the tubes are 60"on center and the roof panels are 29ga running horizontally. In the middle this will carry almost no loading at all and does not meet the recommended screw pattern for the panels....not even close. If you do not expect snow that may sound like a non issue, but I have seen them collapse from ice and fold up like an accordion from wind gusts during a severe thunderstorms. Also have several penetrated by large hail stones.
If I were you, I would just buy and have delivered a wood framed shed and go from there. The extra cost is cheap insurance and time savings alone will most likely cover most of it.
But if not, at least have them add 16ga hat channels minimum 24" on center and run the panels vertically as they were intended to be used. That will at least give you some lateral support, better water runoff and much better support for the panels.
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