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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 09:16am
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OK as I sit here preplanning my next attack I came to a fork in the road and want some opinions. So my shack is framed and covered in Tyvek house wrap right now, temporary cross bracing on the inside to keep it square.
Ok so I'm going to be using 5/8" T1-11 siding direct to the studs. Do I install the windows first directly to the framing then install them over the T1-11? Or do I side with T1-11 then install the window over the siding, trim and caulk the crap out of it? When I build traditional houses we had sheeting up that the windows nailed to then siding after that. SO I'm sure I'm over thinking this.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 09:27am - Edited by: Steve_S
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Do the windows have a Brick Molding or other flashing ? Nailing Strips ? It does somewhat depend on the type of window configuration and how you are weatherproofing.
A photo of the window type your using would be helpful as well as of your Rough Openings.
I am trying to picture your wall as described.
inside {Studs | wrap | T1-11} outside is this correct ?
The conventional method is correct with the appropriate blueskin or whatever you use to keep water away. Using the nailer strip to attach to the RO framing / sheathing then cladding with your choice. But would you be adding some sort of exterior finish trim around the windows if there isn't one ?
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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 09:55am
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The windows will be standard new construction with a nailing strip.
Quoting: Steve_S {Studs | wrap | T1-11}
Correct
Nothing is set in stone right now.
As for trim, well if the windows are under the T1-11 then just caulk around them. If the windows are on top of the T1-11 then I will have to add trim boards around the window
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PA_Bound
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 11:24am - Edited by: PA_Bound
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Sparky... I did the latter as I didn't have a choice, adding the windows after the siding was on and then trimming and caulking heavily. This method worked okay and has held up, but given the choice I would probably install the windows then side around them. I think that would be easier, and probably tighter if done right.
My $.02
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Littlecooner
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 12:17pm
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Just a do it yourself er here, but, it did the windows with nailing strips to the stud and sheathed walls and then did the siding over them. I though that was the best way to keep out the elements. That is just my thoughts and what I did. There may be good solid reasons for doing one vs the other. Hey, it's like the commercial "have it your way". If it is your off grid, out of the way cabin with no inspector, do what you decide is best.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 04:59pm
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I think you can go in either direction as long as you can guarantee no water penetration, flashings with a larger back may be prudent. The key is preventing moisture getting past the window assembly and air tightness if your there & using it in winter.
I've used those as replacement windows in existing frames. I got brick-molding with my windows & doors (even though I don't own a brick).
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Durk
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 05:33pm
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I faced this same decision earlier this year, or rather had several discussions with the framer of my cabin about the subject. I used LP Smartside panels, similar in look to T1-11 but an OSB product. They are structural like T1-11, so it was studs, then house wrap, then siding. I used vinyl windows with a 1 inch nailing flange. My builder wanted to install the windows on top of the siding. I thought that was the wrong way to do it, but he went ahead and did it that way, caulking the nailing flange to the siding. I agonized about doing it that way, but now that I have trimmed the windows they look great and I have no qualms about them leaking. I used the same product (LP Smartside trim) for trim. It is a full inch thick and 3 1/2 inches wide. I cut out a rabbet with a table saw one inch wide and 3/16 inch deep at the inside edge of each trim piece to clear the nailing flange so the trim piece would lay flat, which it does. That leaves a 1" X 3/16" opening at the end of 2 of the 4 pieces of trim on each window (2 of them are covered by the trim) that need to be caulked. I also ran a thin bead of clear caulk around the outside edge of the trim.
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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 24 Aug 2016 07:50am
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Durk
How are you liking the LP Smartside?? I've been thinking about residing my house with it. Seems to have some advantages over Hardie Board especially down here in the south with houses that are constantly moving.
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Durk
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# Posted: 24 Aug 2016 10:23am
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Sparky,
I really have come to like the LP Smartside. It's nice to work with and takes paint very well over the factory primer. I like the thick trim, too. It sure seems like it will hold up well here in Montana. My original plan was to use T1-11, but all the pieces I saw had so many patches and mill marks on them that they didn't look very good for staining, and I didn't want to paint T1-11. The Smartside has a nice uniform texture. The price was comparable to T1-11.
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MouldyJoe
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# Posted: 30 Aug 2016 01:58pm
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I put my window nail strip under my siding (Board and Batten) and trimmed with cedar. I also put some ice and snow guard (sticky tar paper like stuff) around the window frame before the window, just to make sure there were no leaks. But I get very little water 4"-6"/year.
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rockies
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2017 07:52pm
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http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/qa-spotlight/installing-windows-right- way
Mentioned in the "Expert's Opinion" section: Point 2
http://www.tremcosealants.com/category/transition-assemblies.aspx
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2017 07:54pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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General construction, the windows are nailed to the studs then the sheeting installed. But you can certainly do it either way. There is a few tricks to doing it over sheeting. I would take the trim and cut a kerf in the back of it so it doesn't tip on the nailer flange, but not all the way, just where the nail fins are. And I would bevel the top part to shed water and bevel the part at the bottom of the window, just at the window.
Lay that window black membrane over the siding and nailier fins, this will keep it all water tight, and even seal nail holes. Dont seal the trim at the bottom, leave it open so any moisture under it can run outward.
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