|
| Author |
Message |
smallcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Aug 2016 05:40pm - Edited by: smallcabin
Reply
Is stapling the insulation back (see attached pics) appropriate for additional venting and prevent moisture builds up since there's a small attic space?
Before this, I had the insulation run up to the ridge board for a tight fit.
Your thoughts?
Thanks for stopping by.
|
|
Salty Craig
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Aug 2016 06:18pm
Reply
Bad idea. It will let heat into the attic space during winter causing condensation problems. I see that you have the air channels that allow air movement. That's good. Make sure if you want air movement that you have vented soffiting and a vented ridge cap.
Keep the interior and attic climate separate. That's the purpose of the insulation.
Attic= outside
Inside=inside
The insulation maintains the difference.
Salty
|
|
Salty Craig
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Aug 2016 06:24pm
Reply
Upon further inspection of your pics, I see that you do have an attic space. If all your insulation is in the rafters, then the attic is basically serving as a drop ceiling. In this situation, your attic is room climate.
Regardless of the configuration that you choose, I wouldn't have air movement between the two climates.
Enjoy!!
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Aug 2016 09:23pm
Reply
I assume you have a ridge vent in place? If so, close up the insulation, you have the proper stuff in place to keep air moving through the rafter bays.
|
|
smallcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Aug 2016 10:53pm
Reply
Salty and Toyota,
Yes, i do have a ridge vent on top for air circulation. My concern is that if I had the insulation closed up, air will be trapped inside the attic and insulation causing condensation during winter? To alleviate this, my thought is to open up the insulation as shown to move the hot air in the attic through the ridge vent?
However, based on both of your responses, it appears that by opening up the insulation...I'm allowing COLD air to enter the attic space during winter and when cold air mix with hot air, it's a perfect combination for condensation?
Do I make any sense? 
Anyway, I just looking for a second opinion before I completely sealed the ceiling.
Actually, I was thinking about adding an access door to the attic space?
Your thoughts?
Thanks!
|
|
sparky30_06
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Aug 2016 06:31am
Reply
Insulation needs to be placed against your ceiling space and stapled to the inside of the framing members not on the face side. If you want to use that area as "attic storage" then you need to use plywood to create a ceiling against the joists where you have the insulation then finish off the rest with your T&G. I would then add some vents to your storage space to allow air flow.
hope this makes sense. also you can run insulation right to the ridge beam this will not stop airflow.
|
|
Salty Craig
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Aug 2016 08:37am
Reply
smallcabin
I'm glad that you understand the need for air movement. Just make sure your conditioned space isn't contributing to the movement. Yes, introducing room air to outside air will make enough water to run or drip. The greater the difference between temperatures, the greater the condensation.
A dehumidifier works by moving "room" air across chilled plates. A steady stream of water ensues.
The air that you want moving above the insulation should enter at the soffit. Do whatever makes you happiest. I'm glad you're building a cabin. Be safe.
Salty
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Aug 2016 09:04am
Reply
OK, you are speaking of the area below the ceiling, ie the finished space upstairs? You have a window, will you have force airheating/summer fan set up or off grid?
I leave my cabin and its sealed pretty tight, I have a full attic, insulated ceiling, I get zero moisture inside the windows and when I open it up, its nice and cool inside, even in the dead of summer. I do not have a vaulted ceiling. I know a vaulted ceiling will make it warmer in the upstairs. Also, you can add venting and a electric fan that will move air based on heat or humidity, comes on automatically. But want to be hooked to the grid. I would still say you are OK, any more ventilation can be done with the windows. Do you have a window at the opposite end? Crack them both, nice cross flow ventilation...
|
|
|
smallcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Aug 2016 09:07am
Reply
Thanks guys! I appreciated the professionalism on here. I will closed up the insulation as I had it before. Now the fun begins......*painful grin*. LOL
|
|
smallcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Aug 2016 09:29am
Reply
Hi Toyota,
NO, I'm speaking of the small, unusable attic space above the drop ceiling. I had the insulation up to the ridge beam prior to this change. However, since it gets really hot up there (attic area) during the summer. My concern is that the air will be trapped in the attic and without air movements, it may cause condensation during the winter time. So I figured the attic air have to be circulated out somehow. To accomplished this, instead of installing air vents on either side of the gable ends. I decided to staple back the insulation as shown to allow air movement through the ridge vent.
However, this was a bad idea as explained by Salty? So I'm going to undo the insulation and closed them back up to the ridge beam as i had it before? YES?
Thanks!
Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech OK, you are speaking of the area below the ceiling, ie the finished space upstairs? You have a window, will you have force airheating/summer fan set up or off grid? I leave my cabin and its sealed pretty tight, I have a full attic, insulated ceiling, I get zero moisture inside the windows and when I open it up, its nice and cool inside, even in the dead of summer. I do not have a vaulted ceiling. I know a vaulted ceiling will make it warmer in the upstairs. Also, you can add venting and a electric fan that will move air based on heat or humidity, comes on automatically. But want to be hooked to the grid. I would still say you are OK, any more ventilation can be done with the windows. Do you have a window at the opposite end? Crack them both, nice cross flow ventilation...
|
|
smallcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Aug 2016 09:34am
Reply
drop ceiling with fan
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Aug 2016 08:23pm
Reply
OK, I see what you have now. Why not remove the insulation in the rafter bays just above the drop ceiling and insulate it at the drop ceiling part? This would certainly make it feel cooler in the loft.
|
|
smallcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Aug 2016 10:21am
Reply
Yes, that's a good idea. Question....Can I leave the insulation in the roof rafter bays as is and just add extra insulation to the drop ceiling bays?
Thanks!
|
|
Salty Craig
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Aug 2016 06:21pm
Reply
Now I see the big picture. Mine is exactly like that. My insulation is against the pine ceiling and the "attic" area is uninsulated and air vents thru it.
|
|
Salty Craig
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Aug 2016 06:23pm
Reply
Toyota is right. It will be cooler if that area vents. I wouldn't want a dead zone there with insulation on all 3 sides.
|
|
|
