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robmorin
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 11:02am
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Hello all, I am going to start with the decking of my roof next week, I want to use boards, like 1"x6" or 1"x8", but i was wondering do i have to use tongue and groove as its very expensive here in Quebec.
There is a local saw mill guy that can supply pine very cheap at a real 1"x8" but not tongue & groove. Can i still use this? Would i need to have spaces between the boards?
What is the advantage of using tongue & groove over non tongue & groove boards?
My whole reason for this is that the cabin will have a cathedral ceiling with a loft, so i want the inside to look nice.
Anything in 4'x8' would look not a rustic.
Any suggestions?
FYI after boards go up, I would put tar paper, then 2" of rigid foam bonded to osb, then more tar paper then shingles.
Thanks..
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Absolutely
Member
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 11:18am
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You could always buy the cheap 1" x 8" boards and then use a router to tongue & groove them yourself.
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robmorin
Member
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 11:22am
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Thanks for the reply Absolutley, however buying a router and bits would add to the cost and complexity, plus I have never used a router before. But why is tongue and groove need? What does it do that non tongue and groove cannot do?
Thanks
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morock
Member
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 12:29pm
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I can get very cheap T&G around Gatineau QC. Don't know where you are. Also put down a layer of vapour barrier on top of your pine, then two layers of foam board with the seems offset. You can get used foam very cheap off kijiji.
Search "propin" on google.
Just my 2 cents
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robmorin
Member
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 12:47pm
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Hey morock, in Gatineau, where? I checked a place named Les bois heratage, but they seem like not so helpful there.
I was going to do tar paper over the planks then rigid foam to total 4" then osb, then tar paper then shingles.
Thanks
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 12:54pm
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If it doesn't show from below use 4x8 roof deck ether plywood or chip board . Place a roof clip at the mid point between each rafter.
About 75 cents a sq . ft.
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robmorin
Member
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 01:29pm
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Ahh, i see ok thanks Just!
Thats a cool idea!
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 05:21pm
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The main purpose for T+G is just to prevent visible gaps. If you are going for a rustic look perhaps you don't care. I did exactly what you have described, put 1x8 weathered fence boards on the rafters, black felt on that, 3/8 plywood on that, 4-1/2" rigid foam on that, sleepers on the foam for an air space above the insulation, plywood deck on the sleepers- see pics below.
One problem with this is that the gaps in the ceiling boards make basically a sieve for hot air to go through. So around the edges we put bituthane to seal it off. In winter when it's heated the air will be pushing hard to get out, and you could lose a lot of heat.
Redwood fence boards for ceiling
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Rigid insulation up top
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2016 05:41pm
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Is there a reason for using boards and not sheet goods )plywood, OSB)? Sheet goods make the roof stronger, better able to resist lateral loads (wind).
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Jabberwocky
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2016 08:44am
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MtnDon
Yes, he mentioned looks in the first post. 4x8' OSB doesn't look as good from underneath.
Tongue and groove would have the same effect - it essentially binds all the boards together to form a solid cohesive piece. But if the cost is prohibitive, then you can accomplish a similar look with non-T&G boards. They may not be quite as strong or energy efficient, but certainly doable.
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morock
Member
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2016 08:46am
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Try this:
http://www.pro-pin.ca/pg_ProductDetails.php?int_FeaturedProductId=194
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2016 09:07am
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If it helps. You can have a look at my "chalet" build. it's on here somewhere. I did close to what you're talking about. I got the roof design from building science and other sources.
* I put plain cheap Amish milled no-tongue and groove 1x12" pine boards. For the look.
* I then used house wrap. I forget the brand. For breathing waterproof layer.
* I then staggered 2 layers at 3.5" polyiso insulation I got in Gatineau. Air/water proof. From a roofer. Steve_S has gone there too (he's on kijiji all the time. You do have to watch. he likes to get rid of old eps insulation first. I've gone to the yard and then asked "what else do you have?" and I only use xps and polyiso. Higher r value. More critter proof.)
* I then strapped. The 8" screws required to go through the eps/strapping ... $kaching. Like .50 ea. Ottawa Fastener.
* I then metal roofed. Flashed.
Been up two winters. Looks great inside. And I heated that building for around 150 in propane last winter.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2016 09:55am
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Here is a pic of 1x12 barn pine $1 sq. ft. most lumber yards in CAN. I also, have used it in 3 cabins .Finished in poly +a bit of white latex paint to lighted the room .Sealing the ends on the outside walls is also needed as bldginsp suggest .
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2016 02:49pm
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As mentioned the reason for using boards is aesthetics. But boards do not provide the rigidity of sheet goods, so it's important to put a layer of shear ply on top of the boards. I used 3/8" CDX. Black paper on top of the boards as a partial air barrier and so that cracks and knot holes look black, not housewrap.
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Cpipitone
Member
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2017 07:15am
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Why can't you get 5/4 tg then 7/16 osb tar paper then shingle . The 5/4 v groove facing inside for looks.
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