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Yaakmt
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2016 00:40
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Hello Folks, new guy here. Been reading the forums maybe too much. I'm building an 18x12 cabin in NW Montana. I'm using 2x4 on 24 centers. This is a guest cabin with maybe 5 days use a month. Off grid. I have cedar ship lap for exterior siding and Doug fir t&g for the interior. Roof is OSB. I doubled up some of the rafters for strength. My plan is to use a fishing shack propane stove for heat. Nuwave I think it's called. Outside walls are 6 foot, open ceiling at 9 foot center. My main question is insulation... I'm so confused now about airflow and such. Tin roof btw. Can I just sand which the bats between the roof OSB and t&g? Or is it really as complicated as I read?
Thank you very much!
Yaakmt
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Asher
Member
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2016 08:09
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I can't really say I'm qualified, but I decided to vent mine... The last thing I want to deal with is a mildew issue.. I have a ridge vent and drilled 2" holes under the eves... then I installed those little foam channels all the way up, and I'm stuffing in some paper back insulation...
The cost to vent the roof was minimal so I figured why not play it safe...
The best thing I found to cover up the holes to keep insects, birds out (needed a brown color) was gutter covers that I used as a sofit since I have less than a 5" span..
here are the covers..
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Amerimax-Snap-In-PVC-Gutter-Screen/50040808
Here is what I used for venting..
http://www.lowes.com/pd/ADO-Products-Durovent-22-in-x-48-in-Rafter-Vents/3012019
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2016 08:52
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The whole issue with moisture condensation does get confusing sometimes but I suggest you do carefully deal with it, because if not you could get serious mold in the building.
When warm, moist air inside the building goes up and contacts the cold underside of the plywood roof deck, it condenses into water. If that water can't get out mold starts. There needs to be a ventilation space above the insulation so moisture can get out. Cross-ventilation is important- vents below and vents above so air can move across the surface.
If Montana is fire country, cedar siding might not be the best choice. Does your local fire department have construction recommendations?
Hope this helps.
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2016 10:42
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If you have a tin roof google "texas cool roof."
I have done 3 cool roofs now and they work very well for off loading summer heat gain.
Steve S did a nice job of one as well.
For ventilation of an attic asher had a good idea. buildingscience dot com has excellent illustrations of what is required. you might want to have a look.
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Yaakmt
Member
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2016 12:11
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Awesome information! Thank you all so much! Those ADO look like a pretty easy option. Will the windblock item seal the outside? I wasn't planning on adding soffit. Just open under the eaves. Also what sort of insulation can I install with the ADO? Is blown in best in this situation?
I don't plan to sheath the exterior walls. Just house wrap and siding over that. I did that on a smaller 12x10 cabin and it worked pretty good. That cabin was built with rough cut and is off grid as well with a blue flame heater and homemade door. It gets pretty warm but is drafty. See attached picture of that cabin. I didn't build it btw. I had local guy build it while I was out of town working.
I checked out that building science website but haven't exactly found what I'm looking for. I will spend more time there today.
Thank you very much!
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Yaakmt
Member
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2016 12:15
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Luckily I am out of any city limits so the only county approval is electricity inspection and sewer system approvals. I am in a pretty fire defensible property. Cedar is not too much of an issue for my property.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2016 08:55
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Yaak MT, Yaak Valley? Nice little cabin you banged out. Looks real nice. Do you know Tom Orr from the TV show Mountain Men?
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