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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 10:36am
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I'm going to pour a slab 16x40. I plan on digging a well 22' down, 20' off of a stream, with an excavator using large corrugated black pipe for the casing. The pipe run to the cabin below frost level will be about 80' and rise about 20'. I heard pump priming limit is max 26' and can push the 80'. So I will have a pump house at the well. With all that in mind, what kind and size pipe should I use for the run, and should I poke the same pipe into the slab for the pour or use some other method? Thanks! Dave.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 12:13pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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OK, I would use 1" poly pipe for the supply line. I would run a larger pipe such as maybe a 2" pipe to lay in the form and stub it out above the slab with a cap, have it poke through the slab where you want the line to enter, ie utility room etc. And have the other end stub out well past/away from the slab below frost line. Cap both ends. In the right angle turn, do not use a 90' bend, instead, use 2 45 degree bends.
Now when it comes time to run well pipe to cabin, dig out stubbed end, remove cap, push 1" poly pipe through 2" stubbed pipe and up into utility room. (probably be easier to fish is through via the slab and and retrieve it front the underground stub end) With the 2 45 degree bends, it sweeps right in and if you ever have a break in pipe, you can push in a new pipe vs jack-hammering concrete. I say stub underground section far enough away from slab so digging/exposing end wont undermine soil under slab. Make note of there the end is, slide on a stub cap at each end to keep out dirt. Dont glue on end caps, glue the rest. I would use the black ABS stuff.
Run others if you want power to come in, low voltage stuff, phone etc. But make a separate one for each. Power has to be separate and low and high voltage must be separate from each other. Of course, main power can be bigger, but phone and low voltage power can use smaller pipes. This will also leave you a clean look outside cabin vs conduits running up wall and terminating mid point up wall. It will all be concealed and tidy looking.
I think I understood the question right. If so, this is my reply.
OK, how about sewer drains? ie toilets and sinks. That will need to be done also as the same time.
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old243
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 12:47pm
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You might also use 4 inch big O drainage pipe without slots to the well , it is rugged , reasonably priced and readily available. I wouldn't be afraid to put the water pipe and the electrical conductor in the same duct, also put in a 1/4 inch poly rope in case you have to pull in a repair some time. Just be sure to seal both ends well , rodents and critters can migrate back and forth to your cabin, if you don't. This has worked well for me numerous times. If your supply authority will not permit it , you can follow their guide. I also like to bed the duct in sand or fine topsoil. While you have the trench open you can put in perimeter drains and run them out to surface , since you have lots of fall,a French drain of 3/4 stone will protect against critters. Good luck with your project. old243
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 02:14pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech OK, I would use 1" poly pipe for the supply line. I would run a larger pipe such as maybe a 2" pipe to lay in the form and stub it out above the slab with a cap, have it poke through the slab where you want the line to enter, ie utility room etc. And have the other end stub out well past/away from the slab below frost line. Cap both ends. In the right angle turn, do not use a 90' bend, instead, use 2 45 degree bends.
Okay, found the 1" HDPE pipe at Home Depot. The larger 2" pipe, black ABS, got it. The 2" stubbed in and out of the slab is good info I needed also.
Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech I say stub underground section far enough away from slab so digging/exposing end wont undermine soil under slab.
Yeah, a good four feet past the slab.
What size and type for the 120V power?
No sewer, but two gray water drains I'll need to do. One for Kitchen sink, one for shower pan. I was thinking 3" ABS black pipe?
Old243, thanks for those tips. Water fill up will be to 55 Gal. barrels once every couple of weeks using extension cord/garden hose. No plans for pressured water to/in cabin. Sewer will be outhouse. If I change the plan, I will use your info.
Greatly appreciated guys!
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 03:31pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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I would go 2" for main power, this should easily handle 200 amp service. A would think 1.5" would be find for 100 amp service.
Water and electrical legally can not share the same space, same goes for low and high voltage.
3" is typical drain sizes for toilets, kitchen sinks, 2" and bathroom drains, 1 1/2", they usually all flow into a 4" main trunk line to septic or whatever. I suppose all this would have to be set up in the concrete. Drain slope is critical here.
Make sure all bends are the "sweeper" types too on the drains, sweeping in the direction of flow and a cleanout for the main 4". Dont forget the stack vent too.
I would secure the drains well underneath and be there for the pour to make sure nothing is moved or slope/grade isnt changed.
Water storage tanks, will they be underground or grade or above ground? I built a 10 foot tower, 2, 55 gallon drums in it, get flow from hydrostatic pressure. If the barrels are clear or opaque, enclose them or get black containers. This will keep algae from growing in the tanks. Sunlight must not penetrate.
Keep us updated with pictures too. 
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 03:37pm - Edited by: bldginsp
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I ran 3" electrical conduit through my foundation for running the water pipe. Used a long sweep bend to ensure that pushing the poly water line through is easy.
For your electrical coming in, use sch 40 electrical conduit. The size of conduit you use is a function of the size of the wires you will pull through it- off the top of my head 2" conduit should handle feeders for a 100 amp panel. Don't know where your power source is, but you don't want more than 360 degrees of bend in any one conduit run. A run over 100 feet with a lot of bends in it might be tough to pull wire thru
Plan out your under slab plumbing carefully, make sure you have 1/4" slope per foot. A few of Toyota's pipe sizes are a bit off- minimum 3" for toilets, 2" for showers and washers, 1-1/2 for sinks. You will be fine with a 3" trunk line so long as you have no more than 2 or three toilets. One advantage to 4" trunk line is that it can be set at 1/8" per foot slope, but 3" must be at 1/4.
One problem I see repeatedly is not enough slope in under slab plumbing.
Usually the plumbing is put in first, then covered with gravel as they set up for slab rebar. They put boxes in place for bathtub traps, and wrap all the rest of the pipe with foam where the concrete is- you don't want concrete to touch the pipe.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 03:46pm
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Quoting: bldginsp A few of Toyota's pipe sizes are a bit off-
Thanks bldg inspector. I was going from memory. I corrected my post to reflect your specs. Not bad for a Toyota mechanic I guess.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 03:48pm
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Can you tell me how to stop my darn 2.7 from leaking at the exhaust manifold?
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 05:04pm
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Quoting: bldginsp leaking at the exhaust manifold
Exhaust Manifold Gasket?
What's the 2.7?
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 05:07pm
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Thanks, bldginsp for the reply.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 06:55pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech I built a 10 foot tower, 2, 55 gallon drums in it, get flow from hydrostatic pressure.
How do you keep them from freezing? Temperatures at my site get down to 0 F.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 06:58pm
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Quoting: bldginsp Can you tell me how to stop my darn 2.7 from leaking at the exhaust manifold?
Yes, you have a cracked cast iron manifold, later years (few years later) they went to a tube type header, replace your manifold with the tube type header, it fits in the exact same spot (direct replacement), way cheaper in cost too. Never have an issue again.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 07:00pm
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Quoting: DaveBell How do you keep them from freezing? Temperatures at my site get down to 0 F.
I dont, I dont use it in the winter. In your case, an underground or under foundation might be the place for the cistern.
I could enclose my sides on mine and add an old school incandescent bulb to keep it from freezing I suppose. I would have to insulate and seal it up well.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 08:07pm
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Excuse me for high jacking the thread-
Toyota- it's a 1998 Tacoma 2.7 liter 4 cyl. I did replace the exhaust manifold with a stainless tube type, but it keeps coming loose and leaking. Suggestions?
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Bevis
Member
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 08:25pm
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech And have the other end stub out well past/away from the slab below frost line
I'd lay the tape out from a corner and take a pic, so much later you don't have to guess where the pipe is.
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 08:32pm
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Quoting: bldginsp exhaust manifold with a stainless tube type
There is discussion about this on the Toyota Tundra Forum.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 1 May 2016 11:44pm
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Thanks DaveBell
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1tentman
Member
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# Posted: 2 May 2016 10:32am
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One more suggestion, you say you wont have a indoor toilet which is fine but you might look at your floor plan and decide where a toilet would fit and go ahead and lay the drain pipe and toilet flange, tape off flange and pour concrete over it. Five years down the road you may decide to put in a toilet and all you would have to do is chip out crete around flange and set toilet. Just be sure to make a drawing of measurements so you can find it later. I personally have found that alot of things and ideas change as you get older and you wish you would of done things a little differant this would make a retrofit a lot easier down the road.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 2 May 2016 12:01pm
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good idea, 1tentman
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