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PolkCoAg
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# Posted: 1 Mar 2016 08:37am - Edited by: PolkCoAg
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I am building a 8x16 shed style with studs 16" on center. I wanted to use cedar pickets (got a great deal on them) for the interior walls. Being I am 16" on center and the pickets are 6', there is a dilemma I need help with.
Should I
1) cut the pickets as needed to align with studs (horizontal pattern) so I can nail into studs and the ends of pickets are not freefloating and cause warping issues later? This would basically be cutting 2 foot off each board, but I have plenty if this is the best route.
2) install 1/4" plywood to studs and then brad nail the pickets to that? Only hesitation with this is weight. I built this cabin with a stipulation that it has to be mobile in the event we need to move it in the future. However, if this is the best solution for the walls, so be it.
3) something else?
If it matters, I will have 2 in of spray foam behind the pickets, then 1/2" plywood, then Tyvek wrap, metal exterior walls.
Any help is appreciated.
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Just
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# Posted: 1 Mar 2016 09:55am
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You could go on a diagonal ,spanning 5 studs , not sure of the exact angle but what ever works .
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Topper
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# Posted: 1 Mar 2016 02:24pm - Edited by: Topper
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How thick are the cedar pickets?
A friend finished the ceiling of his cabin with 1x6 T&G.
Rather than trim to length, as you are asking in question #1, he used biscuits on the ends of the boards as needed.
Worked fine...
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 1 Mar 2016 02:48pm
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I agree- biscuit cutter is the solution. But you want something behind the boards, so you can't see gaps and to reduce drafts. One layer of 15 lb felt at least.
Biscuit cutters, or spline joiners as I think they call them, can be pretty inexpensive and very useful- worth the investment.
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PolkCoAg
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2016 06:26am - Edited by: PolkCoAg
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They are 1 inch thick, standard fence picket. 1x6x6
My only concern with a biscuit is time. I will have 155 boards to join, so around 300 cuts to make.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2016 07:37am - Edited by: bldginsp
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Once you are set up with a biscuit joiner it goes pretty quick. But what may take more time is getting a clean, square end cut on the boards regardless of whether you use a biscuit joiner or not. If they don't butt together nicely it will look, well, rustic. Radial arm saw is your best bet, circ saw with a guide is not as accurate.
A biscuit joiner makes that problem a bit worse- exposed biscuits will look a bit funny.
Any way you look at it, because you choose to use an inexpensive material of the wrong dimensions, it's going to take more time or be very wasteful. Got kindling?
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PolkCoAg
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2016 07:50am
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Thank you for the guidance. I am okay with it looking rustic, as this is just a hunting cabin and the interior wall is just so I am not looking at insulation all the time and would like something a little nicer than plywood. I appreciate all the help!
I have a miter saw, so that should help with the clean cuts. I might just do one wall and see how it goes and see if I need to change my mind for aesthetic sake.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2016 07:54am
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Looking at your math, with 16" centers, 4x16=64, from 72" boards, leaves you 4" each end to cut off end splits. Am I missing something?
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PolkCoAg
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2016 08:00am
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No, my math is wrong. Sorry about that!
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Topper
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2016 01:44pm
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What bldginsp says. Cutting the ends square will be more time consuming than cutting the biscuit slots.
If it takes you more than a second or so to cut a slot, you're taking too long.
Just to throw this out there, if "rustic" is okay. Forget the biscuits & just cut the ends at a 45* & lap the ends.
Not familiar with the lumber in question. Are the edges true? Or will there be gaps between the boards along their length?
Sometimes "a great deal" turns out not to be...
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Greenland South
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# Posted: 4 Mar 2016 10:08am
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Cut the ends at 45* and use a biscuit or spline. This will get rid of the unsightly gap and any chance of seeing the biscuit. Take a moment to think about your sight lines in the cabin and oriente the cut so you have the angle facing away. Taking 30-45 minutes building a jig on a flat stable table will save you a whole bunch of frustration and make the process quick and some what easier.
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