Small Cabin

Small Cabin Forum
 - Forums - Register/Sign Up - Reply - Search - Statistics -

Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / If my builder could do this within budget, YES!
<< . 1 . 2 . 3 .
Author Message
Julie2Oregon
Member
# Posted: 1 Feb 2016 04:47pm
Reply 


Quoting: beachman
FWIW We built a place with a standard peak roof, 8/12 pitch as I recall. We put in a dormer with a nice window for ventilation - could get out if I had to. We have a steel roof that is a "cool roof". The rain does not make that much noise with the vents built in and 7.5 insulation - pink batting. No leaks even through a hurricane. We have a fairly central wood stove with a pipe up through the peak of the roof. All works great and we love it. Build what suits you best but with the proper technique, any system should work well. We are in eastern Canada and can get heavy snow, but only use it three seasons. It would work in winter but water use would pose a problem.


I agree with you, Beachman. And on the wood stove, I'm doing the same thing.

Don_P
Member
# Posted: 1 Feb 2016 05:40pm
Reply 


There really isn't such a thing as too tight but you do need fresh air. In a tight house this is the normal solution;
http://www.broan.com/products/lifestyle/hrv-or-erv-whats-the-difference-bf711e80-2043 -41a0-bf21-98542b29a2d0

In a kind of tight house, the ones we built during the 70's and repeated through the 90's, the moist indoor air whistles through the cracks and the moisture condenses inside the walls, moldy house.

In the old uninsulated farmhouse there were enough air changes per hour that the relative humidity crashed, there was little to condense. Build tight or build loose. The scandanavian method of ventilating the stale indoor air is to throw open the windows and doors, about hourly.

Do make sure your builder runs the roof design through his engineer and happily pay that bill.

Julie2Oregon
Member
# Posted: 3 Feb 2016 03:34am
Reply 


Don_P
Yes, I'm paying for engineering and pro drawings. Definitely worth it. Best to give the building department engineered specs and for everyone to be on the same page. Literally and figuratively, lol.

I appreciate everyone's input and info here so much. It helps me to understand the building process, what I need, what to look for, etc. so I can incorporate these things and my ideas to design a great little cabin with my builder. I'm doing this alone and selling everything, moving across the country for my dream so I've got one chance to get what I want, done right, at a cost I can afford. A bit daunting but incredibly exciting, too!

Jabberwocky
Member
# Posted: 5 Feb 2016 06:47pm
Reply 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ib0YRE-PMI

.... Just happened to stumble upon this - seems like a good idea.

Don_P
Member
# Posted: 6 Feb 2016 08:56am - Edited by: Don_P
Reply 


Google nailbase or vented nailbase insulation for other types. Wrap and strap is another method I've used. Use structural screws or nails to attach these to the deck, drywall and deck screws are brittle. Some do come with 5/8 osb. For floors I've simply layed sheet xps and covered with 1/2" osb screwed to the joists and sheathing.

<< . 1 . 2 . 3 .
Your reply
Bold Style  Italic Style  Underlined Style  Thumbnail Image Link  Large Image Link  URL Link           :) ;) :-( :confused: More smilies...

» Username  » Password 
Only registered users can post here. Please enter your login/password details before posting a message, or register here first.