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spencerin
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2015 11:52pm - Edited by: spencerin
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My lot, though rural, is part of a homeowners association. One of the covenants / restrictions is that a permanent build must be at least 860 sq. ft. of "livable" space. I've self-imposed a budget of $50,000 for a new build. Is it possible within reason to get this sq. ft. out of $50,000? This is for construction only (excluding the cost of the lot). Some things I'm considering to reduce costs are a pier foundation and a pellet stove for heating, and pretty much anything else that'll give the place a rustic feeling. On the other hand, I really don't want much "DIY" left over when the GC's done. If you had a GC build your place, what was the cost per sq. ft.; in your opinion, is my target achievable (my place is in central IN); and what other suggestions do you have to drive down costs?
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pash
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# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 01:52am
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i see your name is spencerin, im guessing that the location is my hometown in owen county. if this is correct, you must have had to look hard to find a HOA there. Im betting lanes addition off 67. anyway, there are plenty of ways to drive the price down, and just because it has livable space doesn't mean you have to use it. The HOA will only care about the footprint of the structure. Owen county has the log cabin exemption, there was just an article in the evening world about it, and Josh Hogan is the building inspector. I knew him years ago and he is a reasonable dude. Basically, you pay for the permit and they leave you alone if you build it yourself. I have tons of connections there if you are new to the area. Get back at me with more questions.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 08:36am - Edited by: bldginsp
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The math shows $58/sq ft. That's way below what any contractor would charge for a complete modern house, but you aren't making a complete modern house.
Get a definition of 'livable space' from the HOA so you know what they will accept. A 600 sq ft house with a 260 sq ft porch would make a nice place, and the porch reduces cost.
If you are doing a lot of the work yourself, $50,000 is very doable. Most of the cost of building is labor. Your material costs will come in probably below half the $50k mark.
A pier foundation will greatly reduce cost, but any building over 3-400 sq ft on a pier foundation is, in my mind, not wise. I doubt the building dept. will accept it, and structurally it just won't do well over time. Consider a slab, which eliminates the cost of a subfloor.
You could probably have a GC build the shell in that price range- just walls and roof, complete, then you do the inside or hire subcontractors for the inside over time as your budget permits.
Good luck.
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pash
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# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 09:58am
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im sure they calculate sqft as interior that has at least 4ft high kneewalls. So a 24x24 will work. So if you build a 8/12 or greater pitch for a loft you should get to the 860. I am currently working on my 24 by 24 with loft and am going to have 864 sqft. im not putting a floor in it (only gravel) as im putting my tractor and atv's downstairs but my shell is coming in at 7K.
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spencerin
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 12:31pm
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All very valuable info, thanks.
Pash, you're in the right county. I did write to Josh months ago and he responded that "livable" space has to be genuinely livable - finished walls, floor, heating, and access to a bathroom. The log cabin exemption isn't an option, either. I'll just have to continue to research costs.
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Borrego
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 01:49pm
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$58 per sg ft is not really gonna get you a quality job. I've usually found that when I value out my costs (using my own labor) it still comes to $75 sq ft. The homes I've built for a living are more like $200+ sq ft, but that includes finishes, usually high-end. I like bldginsp 's idea of just getting it roughed in and finishing it yourself or as time and budget allow. I do not agree with his assessment of a raised foundation, there are many homes I see that are raised with areas over 3000 sg ft, some quite old, with no significant problems..you just have to do it right.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 02:02pm
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Borrego- I meant with piers alone. Raised with spread footing is always best. Do you mean you've seen a lot of houses on piers alone in the 3000 range that hold up over time? I suppose it's a function of soil conditions
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pash
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 02:33pm
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As bldginsp stated about the shell sounds like a good idea. You could also file for a variance. IF no one can see your house from where you are, the county will likely go for it, its just a few more hoops and who you know. I likely know most people in the court house and i would be more than willing to help. It is the epitome of small town corruption around there, but you still can make it work for you. The you just need a variance from the HOA, which is a whole different animal.
There are only 1 or 2 contractors around there that i would recommend. I have also found that buying from Menards in bloomington has saved me a fortune. The order i placed yesterday for the rest of my cabin, came with an 11% rebate. Where if i had gone with the local supply house i was paying 50% more than Lowes!!!!!
My email is pash2022@gmail.com if you need more specific stuff, so as to not be posting contractors personal data and such publicly.
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Borrego
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 04:00pm
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Quoting: bldginsp Do you mean you've seen a lot of houses on piers alone in the 3000 range that hold up over time?
Sorry, I thought we were talking about posts on a poured or raised block or footing. Piers alone, no........
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Julie2Oregon
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# Posted: 10 Oct 2015 07:42pm
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Does that $50,000 include at least basic plumbing, wiring, septic? I'm wondering because I've budgeted $45,000 for less than 400 sq. ft., including those things, and I think I'll just make it. Building to code, of course. No frills on the inside, wood stove, and crawl space with block perimeter foundation and piers.
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