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Rickkrus
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# Posted: 26 Oct 2017 22:56
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If the boards are properly glued together there should be very little water intrusion.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 28 Oct 2017 16:21
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Quoting: adakseabee If the top edge of the outer board of the "log" was milled at an angle that sloped down and away, AND if the bottom edge of the outer board of the mating "log" above it was milled at the same angle such that when it is attached to its "log", it mates and overlaps the one below it, the logs would have the capability to be self-shedding of water.
Absolutely. However, this means ripping both edges of all exterior boards, and ripping middle and interior boards once in width to match. That is a LOT of ripping, and would require a 5 horse table saw with auto feed. Or, you could special order the stock from a mill. Also, it does not solve the problem of water intrusion at the corners, but these would be much easier to caulk than the full lineal feet of the exterior
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 28 Oct 2017 16:24
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Quoting: Rickkrus If the boards are properly glued together there should be very little water intrusion.
I disagree. You could try to glue this whole thing together, but the cross-grain expansion/contraction of the 2x8s would be fighting the glue, and would win.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 28 Oct 2017 19:47
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If there is enough overhang on the roof then water intrusion should not bean issue. I have a scribed fit log cabin with substantial roof overhang and my wall logs do not see any water at all in the heaviest downpours. I built my sauna/bunkie the same way and the walls stay perfectly dry.
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DCRUMRINE
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2017 14:34
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The problem with the pond idea is if the ground isnt tamped/compacted and not virgin soil. The ground must sit for 10 years in my area before building on it and even then you have to have a compaction test done on it. The ideal of builiding it on post is a great idea. Some parts of Florida is making residents build their houses on poles. I have a few friends that just had to tear their houses down cause they was sitting ground level and rebuild on post. Their houses now sit 12 feet in the air.
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DCRUMRINE
Member
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2017 18:41
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Not trying to be rude but a lot of your gap problem is your rim joice aint level in return makes your sub floor unlevel which in return cares that to your wall and anything above your walls. You can see it in your pics it aint level.
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DCRUMRINE
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2017 18:49
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Tonerboy his issue is from his rim joice not being level which continued into the flooring which carried up into his walls. You can see on the pictures that the corners drop about a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Its people who think they are a DIYer and dont pay attention to what they are doing is who is going to ruin this kind of building system. They want to complain about it before they check and see if it is their own fault it is screwed up. It has worked fine for the last like 10 years and all of a sudden it dont work..... Check your work its not the building style its the building quality.
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Zen
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# Posted: 29 Nov 2017 22:44
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Quoting: bldginsp However, this means ripping both edges of all exterior boards, and ripping middle and interior boards once in width to match. That is a LOT of ripping, and would require a 5 horse table saw with auto feed. Or, you could special order the stock from a mill.
I just found this forum and read through this post. I've been kicking around a similar idea for a couple of years, but this is far superior to what I was thinking about. On the topic of water intrusion, rather than ripping all the boards and trying to make all the angles match up, I would think a pretty simple solution would be to just knock the corner off the top edge of the outer 2 By and cutting a shallow groove in the bottom near the outside edge. The middle and interior 2 Bys would not need to be touched.
Water running down the face of the board will always try to follow the board into the seam due to the surface tension characteristics of water, but water won't run back up hill. The notch at the bottom of the log would cause the water to stop following the surface and drip onto the sloped surface of the log below it and run off.
Of course strong winds could still blow some water into the seam, so it would still need to be sealed, but the vast majority of water intrusion should be stopped in it's tracks . . . shouldn't it?
You would loose a portion of the contact surface between the outer 2 Bys, but I wouldn't think it would be significant to the strength or structural integrity of the system. But then, I'm not an engineer. Just throwing the
idea out there. What do you think?
Of course, the corners would still need to be sealed with calk, glue, silicone or whatever . . .
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cascade500
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# Posted: 3 Dec 2017 12:11
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Stoney
I would love to purchase plans for this. you have anything available with step by step with pictures?
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Searcher
Member
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# Posted: 4 Dec 2017 08:24 - Edited by: Searcher
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Zen, This is exactly what I was thinking too. I noticed the same groove procedure is used in the step of an outside door frame. I also think this would reduce water infiltration greatly at the seams.
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Nirky
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2017 08:04
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Stoney's garage built by this method has been up for 7 years now, so the question is, is there any evidence of water damage anywhere in the structure?
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Srollins
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2017 12:43
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Pretty cool idea, followed this thread from the start. I don't remember anyone talking about two things unless I missed it? Stoney please weigh-in
#1 Did you have any issues keeping your walls plumb or straight as you went up? If so how did you keep them plumb and straight just standard bracing until your roof was on?
#2 My build will be 24x32 with loft , I was planning on the walls to be 12' high to provide a nice head height in the loft area which by the way is 16' deep, question is where the loft stops the roof will be cathedral from that point to the opposing side of the cabin. In your opinion will your method of building support my roof rafters and associated framing members without buckling the logs?
Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Scott
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Srollins
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2017 12:47
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Basically the walls would go up 12' at the loft area you will have the floor joist for the loft to help stabilize things but after the loft you basically go from a 12' wall immediately to roof rafters with only collar ties no floor joist.
hope this makes sense?
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BigR
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# Posted: 14 Dec 2017 16:34
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Stoney is the manual still available?
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44him2
Member
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# Posted: 19 Dec 2017 22:07
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Stoney
I could not find your email address--I am very interested in constructing a cabin using your technique.
I would love to purchase the plans from you but could not find them on eBay.
My email address is daleandjennifer@sbcglobal.net
Thanks Dale Smith
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BigR
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2017 17:33
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Are the plans and the manual available on eBay?
BigR biggestr@aol.com
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BigR
Member
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# Posted: 25 Dec 2017 11:48
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If the manual isn't available anymore is there anyone who would share theirs for a fee or not? I would also pay the postage in either direction.
biggestr@aol.com
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Marion
Member
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# Posted: 25 Dec 2017 15:06
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Hi Stony I emailed you for a copy of your booklet
Marion
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JayD
Member
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2018 05:47
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Stoney, this is by far the most common sense idea for a small building I have seen, I would really like a copy of the plans with your updated improvements, I have very little flat ground, so it will be built on a grade. jaydeaton@gmail
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Tonerboy
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2018 14:08
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Stoney's email address is;
braker1@bellsouth.net
I believe the book is still available and it was $15.00 last time I checked.
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 8 Sep 2018 06:59
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Hello everyone.
Although I am not regularly responding to all comments, I just want all of you to know that I am still here to answer questions and to assist in whatever build issues that you might have.
You can reach me through my email address or post your questions here.
So far there are no water issues with my building because I have a two foot overhang on my roof. There are log cabins that are over one hundred years old that have survived by doing it the same way.
I want to thank all of you for the kind words and comments.
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KinAlberta
Member
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# Posted: 7 Dec 2018 22:27 - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Regarding srollins comment a year ago about keeping the walls plumb...
Not sure if this would help strengthen the walls (or if already in the design or mentioned up thread) but could gaps be built into the laminations to allow a pointed 2x2 to be pounded down the wall to stiffen the walls?
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meyer712
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# Posted: 10 Dec 2018 21:24
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Stoney do you still have any books for sale. .I checked Ebay and did not see anything.. If you would email me that would be great. I would like to purchase a copy.. Thanks.. Gene..... meyer712@gmail.com
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Ljack
Member
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 12:08
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this is to stoney on your new cabin building tenique posted 2010. hope your still around. just saw your technique on cabin building using 2x8's instead of logs looked for 1 of your pamplets on how to, but couldn't find any. please advise where to locate 1. thanks interested builder
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Ljack
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 12:13
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Stoney
hello stoney. just saw your post today for the first time. 62 years young and thinking of building a cabin. can't handle conventional log building, don't have the strength or energy. was looking for 1 of your pamplets for more detail. you wouldn't have an extra 1 lying around somewhere I could purchase from you? thanks interesting concept
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2019 13:31
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Ljack,
I can still be reached at braker1@bellsouth.net.
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nalabama
Member
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# Posted: 22 Apr 2019 19:14 - Edited by: nalabama
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Has anyone built this type wall with four pieces of lumber, two in the middle, one each inside and out?
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aloneinthewilderness
Member
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2019 10:49
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I am a newly-registered user here... Signed up hust to jaw w/ you about your unique structure... Several weeks ago I was brainstorming on how to use lumber like lofs in a butt and pass style cabin... As soon as I thought about sandwiching the 3 2x10s together -- I googled it & saw where someone has already done it... That's good!! I am heavily considering building one. Do you have any guidance on it? Book / video? Regrets?
More pics?
I'd be a fool to do a unique structure without taking advice from someone who's already done it...
For me -- it all started with trying to use 2x10 plank flooring.. Not sure why nobody else is using 2x planks for flooring???
Anyway -- your project looks great. I went to a log home builder class in 2006. They teach butt & pass. There's just no good logs around here.
Thank you!!
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2019 12:47
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I also considered using 2 x 10's but found that 2 x 8's were cheaper. Most people on this forum want to save money. Besides the logs would be heavier to lift especially when you get to the higher levels.
There are many good tips and detailed pictures in my booklet.
You can read back on this blog and get my email.
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aloneinthewilderness
Member
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2019 12:54
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Ok... What is your email & how do I get your booklet? Thanks for the fast reply!!
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