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Koffeedan
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2014 19:26
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Stoney, just bought your design and really looking forward to start building in the spring. Like Searcher I will prebuild the logs where I have actual hydro and not from a genny. Further to your suggestion of knocking them in with a sledge hammer, maybe built a sacrificial two foot section of a beam, install on top and knock down on it to save your beams.
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Searcher
Member
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2014 20:44
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Thanks Stoney for the info and your design book... and Koffeedan, using a sacrificial section would be a good idea.
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2014 04:33
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Using the sacrificial section to set any tight logs is the best way to go so you don't damage any tongues. I have used this method many times and it works well.
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gmlechuga
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jan 2015 12:50 - Edited by: gmlechuga
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Where are the books available
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claypat11
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jan 2015 15:27 - Edited by: claypat11
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Also interested... Please let me know where I can get an ebook.
TIA
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Phillip
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jan 2015 16:36
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gmlechuga and claypat11,
You might want to take the time to actually read through this thread. You'll be amazed at how many times Stoney has answered your question over the past 4 years.
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gmlechuga
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jan 2015 18:26
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Email him at braker1@bellsouth.net I have mine on the way 2 minutes on pay pal and he even took time to answered some questions very nice guy thank you Stoney looking forward to seeing the book.
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sloweather
Member
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# Posted: 11 Jul 2016 17:50
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New here, old thread, I know. I skimmed the other posts to see if this idea was mentioned. I didn't see it, but I might have missed it. 
These could also be made with different species of woods. say, cedar for the interior, doug fir for the middle, and redwood for the outside.
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OliJ
Member
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# Posted: 14 Sep 2016 15:21 - Edited by: OliJ
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Hi Stoney,
I would like to buy the Cabin drawing or plans you have created or acquired .
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preventec47
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2017 19:09
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Has anyone created a total cost comparison between traditional 2x4 stick built walls with exterior siding on the outside like T-1-11 or Smartside panels and plywood on the inside and then compared
with these three ply thick 2x8 or 2x10 or whatever is most cost effective at prevailing lumber prices from the big sellers like Home Depot ? I would like to know if the Stoney method is cheaper or
more expensive and by what approx percentage. I think his method is cute but I cannot imagine it being cheaper than traditional approach and I would like to know the premium to go
this route. This thread is now 5 to 7 years old by now and several others should by now have finished theirs and have an opinion on total costs etc. and any other significant learned
advantages or disadvantages etc.
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preventec47
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2017 19:12
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Here in May 2017 would like to hear opinions from anyone who has worked with Stoneys innovative design ideas....
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Pearce
Member
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# Posted: 24 Jun 2017 16:45
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This might be the best do it yourself cabins that I have seen here yet.
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preventec47
Member
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# Posted: 24 Jun 2017 16:53
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This may not be important if the cabin is not occupied or the climate is exceedingly mild but I think the lumber walls are
going to leak air horribly and it will take a ton of caulk or
foam strips etc to try to get it air-tight. This is where I think
conventionally covered plywood interior and outside over 2x4 frameing will be much better.
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 24 Jun 2017 16:54
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Would be nice to get an update from those who have built with this method to see how well things hold up and wear over time through the seasonal variations.
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preventec47
Member
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# Posted: 24 Jun 2017 17:15
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Here is what would be a much cheaper approach to building
a smaller cabin using any size 2X lumber or even a mixture of
sizes. You might need to use a lot of caulk to make it water tight
unless you put shingles or steel roof on top. The way I figure it
approx 14 2x4's equal a 4x8 plywood sheet so it would not be too difficult for the lumber approach to be a lot cheaper than sheathing on one or two sides of a framed wall.
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Tonerboy
Member
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# Posted: 25 Jun 2017 11:11
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If you go back through the thread, you will see that Stoney has commented on how things have held up. His first building/garage did quite well and his latest builds are only slightly different in improvements.
One of the best reasons to build with this method is labor. While I have yet to build using this method, for my requirements, I can create the "logs" offsite and then truck the "kit" to my building site. Trying to complete a cabin/house 100 miles from where I currently live and maintain a full-time job would take me far too much time/years.
The cost is higher, but for just the walls of a 12x24 cabin, assuming floor and roof costs the same for stick build vs "stoney build" we're talking 1,500 vs 2,100. Again, factoring in labor, your time is worth something, I believe it is worth it.
Remember, these are assumptions on my part, based on my needs and limitations.
In addition, you have a nice exterior/interior look. Stain it and your done
There are many factors in this type of build which need to be evaluated. Lumber availability and quality are important. I have done a very limited evaluation of dimension changes vs time, built a corner of a wall 4 foot high and let it bake in the Texas heat for 6mo with minimal wood shrinkage but had a small amount of warping.
Stoney has plans for sale and has answered several questions in this thread. Scroll back and you can find his email if you want to consider this process.
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Jabberwocky
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jun 2017 09:49
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Quoting: preventec47 Here is what would be a much cheaper approach to building a smaller cabin using any size 2X lumber or even a mixture of sizes. You might need to use a lot of caulk to make it water tight unless you put shingles or steel roof on top. The way I figure it approx 14 2x4's equal a 4x8 plywood sheet so it would not be too difficult for the lumber approach to be a lot cheaper than sheathing on one or two sides of a framed wall. _Lumber_Cabin_mins.jpg _Lumber_Cabin_mins.jpg
That's a cool looking design, but I'm having a hard time seeing the practicality... for one thing, it looks like the caulking details needed at the top where the two sides intersect would be a nightmare... and the only check for preventing a leaky roof. If the sides were sheathed, I suppose one could completely envelope the top (upside-down triangle) and make it a ridge vent of sorts.
The other thing is that the 2x4s would really need to be a good quality to stay together like that. I would think the typical warping in either direction would be a beast to contend with.
Lastly, cool Spartan helmet! 
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preventec47
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jun 2017 13:26
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I 've looked further at that "woven" 2x4 roof and I realized that
there is no need for the sticks up in the air. All those 2x4 ends could be cut off flush with each other and still keep the alignment
function of the boards. Then it would be super simple to run
a piece of bent flashing from one end to the other over the ridge
to make that part of the roof watertight. Further you could put as
many horizontal "bracing pieces on the back side to keep it all
square and straight.
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Jabberwocky
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jun 2017 13:30
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True.
With the armor in the pic it looks like this was designed to be a modern mimic of a more ancient building type. It looks a little reminiscent of a Viking long house, but the Grecian Hoplite helmet wouldn't suggest that.
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Rickkrus
Member
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# Posted: 30 Jun 2017 21:30
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I'm building a cabin with this method so I can add my experiences. I like the method. I've built the entire thing solo and not sure if I could have done that stick built. It looks good. Everyone asks what kit it is. Make certain you get quality lumber. I live in the middle of nowhere and only had one choice to deliver. The quality was horrible so I have some big gaps. The best, cheapest, and fastest way to fill them was using canned gap foam. Painted a layer of tire bond over it and think it will last a while.
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preventec47
Member
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# Posted: 1 Jul 2017 05:34
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Unfortunately I see a real problem in the future with interior
wall wood rot. Unlike in the real world where there is always
a flashing technique that always throws the water to the outside,
in this case when it rains the water will follow around the outside
board to the inner board immediately below. The wall interior is
never going to dry out and will be rotted in just a few years.
Alternatively you could place some kind of rubber gasket material
if it stays tight and the gaps are not huge. I guess many hundreds of dollars of caulking would do the same thing. Probably much less than in a conventional log home so that might not be so bad. If anyone ignores the path of the water
the structure will only be temporary and that would be sad.
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Tonerboy
Member
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# Posted: 2 Jul 2017 09:35
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Rickkrus
It would be interesting to see some close-up pics of the issues you had.
How did you build the logs? Type of glue, screws, a jig, etc.
Are those 2x8 or 2x10
Foundation spacing for the loads since you are on piers and not a poured slab.
Beautiful location.
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Elessar
Member
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# Posted: 30 Sep 2017 16:09
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Stoney
I purchased the booklet that Stoney sold on Ebay and we're FINALLY talking about building a tiny house using Stoney's method. I have save my booklet and pulled it from my files so that we can discuss this incredible method for creating a outbuilding that should be durable and easy.
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Flcs3527
Member
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# Posted: 19 Oct 2017 21:04
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Stoney
Where can I get your pamplett?
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SasKcabin
Member
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2017 01:58
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I've used the stoney plans for our cabin. The logs worked out great for our Canadian winters, didn't use anything between the logs. Our 2x6's were in pretty good shape and just screwed them together with deck screws. There is a slight draft in the corners but the cabin heats up nice even when its -30c outside. We sealed up the corners with some silicone and used spray foam around the windows and doors.
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Dennis Ward
Member
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2017 11:12
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Do you use treated or untreated wood ?? Is it expensive to build like this. I like what you build. Great idea, how about a video on your project.
Dennis
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Flcs3527
Member
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2017 22:56
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Elessar
Hey Elessar, I've been trying to get Stoney's booklet. Do you know where I can get a copy. Thanks
You can reach me at Frank{@}schipula.com
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Alohae
Member
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# Posted: 26 Oct 2017 18:19 - Edited by: Alohae
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I joined the forum, and then realized there were lots of updates past 2010, so I edited this while I look back for the info I was asking about. Great idea!
Lauren
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 26 Oct 2017 20:48
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Quoting: preventec47 If anyone ignores the path of the water the structure will only be temporary and that would be sad.
Agreed. Users of this method should be forewarned that it depends entirely on caulk sealing to prevent water intrusion. Caulk works until it fails, and will, in spots, with this method because of wood movement across the boards. A building where the siding is arranged in a shingled manner, overlapping, sheds water by default. Windows and doors can be flashed which, again, is shingling which provides default water drip out and away. 2x lumber stacked up does not provide such a shingling effect, it offers a ledge where, if water gets onto the ledge, it can fall inside between boards. Because there is no default water drip inherent to the design, this must happen when the caulk seal fails. The only way to avoid this would be to recaulk and do careful maintenance on a very regular basis, yearly or every other year. Eventually this effort will cease or diminish and the result will be inevitable. I wonder whether this sealing can be done effectively at all at the corner joints. Log builders use joint designs with sloping surfaces for just this reason- a flat ledge holds water and leads it in. Milled kit logs have T+G milled into each piece which creates a dam that prevents water intrusion. This method does not lend itself to any of these solutions.
I think I would use this method for a building that I did not expect to last, such as a storage shed or the like. Or if I lived in a desert where exposed wood lasts almost forever. But I would not build with this method in a moist environment if I wanted it to last, because of the necessity of constant maintenance.
I know you don’t respond well to criticism of your method Stoney, but I think it needs to be said that this method, by its inherent design, does not do one of the main things a building is supposed to do- keep water out. It can, but only thru constant maintenance throughout its life. I’d rather build something that doesn’t require that degree of maintenance. Everything needs maintenance, but I prefer to choose methods that minimize that work, not increase it.
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adakseabee
Member
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# Posted: 26 Oct 2017 22:23
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If the top edge of the outer board of the "log" was milled at an angle that sloped down and away, AND if the bottom edge of the outer board of the mating "log" above it was milled at the same angle such that when it is attached to its "log", it mates and overlaps the one below it, the logs would have the capability to be self-shedding of water. The joint between the two logs would be a modified shiplap joint. This would require boards slightly wider initially before making the angle cuts along the length of the outer boards to account for the loss in width due to the angle cuts.
Other possible solutions would be to have large overhangs to protect the walls from driving rain, use pressure treated boards for the inner and outer boards of the three that make up each "log", and LIBERAL use the best quality silicone caulk in the outer joint of each log.
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