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Stoney
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2014 05:28am
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This is still just a garage for storage and maybe a boat later. It has a garage door on both ends so I can drive through without backing out. No living space but it could easily be adapted for some if needed. I wanted to post photo's to just give people an idea of what is possible.
I am still using 2 x 8's for this 24' x 24' garage. It seems to look good to me in that size. There is about $13,000 in this project with about the same square footage as the other one. The excavation cost more this time and the attic trusses alone cost around $2000 which ran up the cost over standard trusses.
During the build many people stopped by and seven even made serious offers for me to build one for them.
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Nirky
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# Posted: 14 Feb 2014 08:06pm
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I like the attic trusses, frees up usable room. Are you thinking of going into business building these garages?
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Stoney
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# Posted: 15 Feb 2014 08:12am
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I like the attic trusses too. It gives me a lot of storage space and it is easy to get to with a real stairway going up there.
No, I am not getting back into building for other people. I was hoping to be able to have a class or two to teach some local builder to be able to do this as a business. I think there is quite a bit of money to be made here.
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Grunau
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# Posted: 7 Mar 2014 09:17pm - Edited by: Grunau
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Briankcreasman
Sorry it has taken so long to respond. We routered the outside edges of the lumber logs. The ends go past the wall 3". I made them shorter so it would look better on a small building.
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Grunau
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# Posted: 7 Mar 2014 09:27pm
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dpoisson
I dont have very many pictures but here is one of how we made the roof.
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BucksAndBeards
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2014 09:31am
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Stoney
Do you have any recommendations on pier spacing and/or diameter size holes for a 16' x 36' off grid cabin?
I am considering your design for a structure I intend to build. I was thinking 12" holes every 4 feet along the exterior of the 16' walls, and then 12" holes every six feet around the exterior of the 36' walls. My frost depth requires the holes to be a minimum of 42" depth. I was thinking 48" as this is the common depth people use around here, NYS.
I would use a 6 foot sonotube, so 4 feet of concrete is buried and 2 feet is above grade. I would then anchor a 6"x6" treated post (running horizontal to the soil) on top of the sonotubes, then install the 2" x 2" starter tongue to this 6"x6" and build up with your design from there on.
The price of a crawl space foundation is coming out around 6k plus for this building. I believe I can pour the sonotubes myself for dramatically less. I would install joist hangers inside the framework and then run 2"x10"x16' joists to build the interior floor on top of.
Any thoughts?
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Stoney
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2014 09:43am
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Bucks,
Your plan looks pretty good to me. The only thing that I can suggest is maybe some rebar in the sonotubes along with some anchor bolts or straps for the 6" by 6"
This should be much more economical especially if you can mix the concrete on site with gravel and cement.
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dpoisson
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2014 04:24pm
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Grunau, thanks! That actually answers a couple of questions I had. Great to be able to visualize it.
How did you finish the soffits if you don't mind me asking?
Stoney: If you have a wall that would be more than 16ft long, you'd simply laminate (and stagger the joints) shorter length of 2x8's to make a longer "beam"? So, you'd use various lengths of 2x8's to make a 2x8 that's 24ft long for example?
Cheers
Fish
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Stoney
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2014 05:43pm
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Fish,
You have the concept correct. My booklet shows the joint to use for making longer logs. You just make a log with a horizontal tongue longer than the outer boards and then a log with a groove to join the two outer boards to make one continious log.
Also for Bucks,
I happened to think that you may need some center supports for your floor or it may bounce a lot. You may want to run a center beam with two or three supports to have support for the 16' span.
Stoney
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Don_P
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2014 10:00pm
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Bucks,
Multiply the area of the floors times the design load, generally 40 lbs per square foot live load + 10 psf Dead load. Then do the same for the roof, area X (Snow load + dead load). Add them together for the total structure design weight.
Total the area of your footings, a 12" dia pier has a .785 square foot bearing surface.
Divide the load by the footing surface area to get the bearing pressure on the footings. "average" soil is generally considered to be capable of bearing 2000 lbs per square foot. There is a chart of bearing capacities of soil types in the codebook.
I did notice that you are spacing the piers on 4' centers on the non load bearing walls and at 6' centers on the load bearing walls. The piers on the 16' endwalls won't really be carrying an equal share of the load so the above was really kind of simplisitic.
Piers are considered to be an engineered foundation type mainly because they have quite variable resistance to horizontal loads from wind or ground movement. I also just described how there is probaly unequal loading of the piers, that can lead to uneven settlement of the building. Some last 100 years just fine, others don't make it a decade. Those examples usually don't survive and thus people say "but i've seen many that are 100 years old" , the ones that failed tell no tales. I helped shore up a bandstand about a year ago that had 2' dia sonotubes that tipped and took the rim with them, 7 joists were disconnected and I noticed it the day before a large benefit concert, needless to say there was some quick scrambling. Shortly after a large section of parking lot at the grocery store collapsed... same contractor. Several times I've seen mother nature prove that someone didn't know what they were doing not by taking one building but by taking multiple buildings built by the same individual. When test day comes they receive failing grades on all their book reports at the same time. For that contractor he is now over 80 and retired. I've seen a hurricane drop just about everything a contractor built over a lifetime.
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Stoney
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# Posted: 11 Mar 2014 10:33am
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Don P,
Thanks. This is some very helpful information.
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 11 Mar 2014 11:25pm
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Stoney, too pooped to respond thoughtfully at the moment... found the roots of the mountain under a 1928 victorian and have been playing hard rock miner. I am intrigued by your method. My thoughts have gone along the lines of built up timberframe bents, quite similar to what you have done. Something else worth checking on is a recent approval of a method that's been used in europe for a decade or so, CLT, cross laminated timber. They are making wall panels out of laminations of lumber, each layer 90 degrees to the previous layer and building basically a stress skin panel building out of those. Quick assembly and a good use of underutilized trees, like our massive beetle killed forests. APA has a manual out recently that I believe has ICC approval. I think it is all glulam but the early discussion included mechanical lamination, nails.
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tichalet
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# Posted: 11 Mar 2014 11:41pm
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Love, love, love "The Stoney System" not only for the ease of materials acquisition, the time & budget savings & all-around efficiencies of construction, but especially for the somewhat less immediately evident benefits others might not prioritize as highly as I.
Someone here already noted that once the DIY-er gets this up, for all intents & purposes, it's basically ready to go as is and the owner-builder doesn't have to spend as many vacations tinkering around to finish it off by day & sleeping in a construction zone at night as they would after closing in with other methods. They can start enjoying their cabin right away. (What a concept!)
But what makes it most appealing, from this woman's point of view at least, is just how drop-dead handsome these structures are. You would never guess that they were more economical. Quite the opposite: they look much more solid than conventional framing methods.
Almost always there's a trade-off on aesthetics with quicker & less expensive DIY building approaches. Not here, not to my eye.
Very clever AND great looking. (What a concept!) You rock, Stoney. 
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Stoney
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# Posted: 12 Mar 2014 07:13am
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Don P,
I am aware that there are other laminated solid wood structures available. My goal is to make my process available to those who may not be able to afford those expensive prefab buildings.
Thanks
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Woodweavil
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# Posted: 29 Mar 2014 08:32am - Edited by: Woodweavil
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Good morning all, I'm new to this forum and have been doing research on cross tie construction. I like this method much better because it allow the wife to take a more active role in the construction. My question are all the nail hole inside and out. They are not very aesthetically pleasing to the eye. Has anyone else thought of away to tackle this issue? This will be my residence and will be a Russian barn style, with lofted bedroom and living space. I am going to use piers and beam foundation as of now, this could change before I'm done thou. Don P. Has me thinking. I'm a 25 yr master cabinet maker and furniture builder. I have done many remodels and trim packages , but have never done any structure builds. So I'm probably more concerned about aesthetics than most. I'm looking at approximate size of 16-20x36-40 ish, with a fireplace designed for heat and cooking. Also I'm located in Tennessee. So any input would be greatly appreciated
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bronco_ed
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# Posted: 29 Mar 2014 10:42pm
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Is it still possible to get a hold of the ebook?
Thanks,
-Ed
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Woodweavil
Member
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# Posted: 30 Mar 2014 06:00am
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Ed, You can contact Stoney about a pamphlet at Braker1@bellsouth.net
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bronco_ed
Member
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# Posted: 4 Apr 2014 07:26pm
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Thank you
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Lover of logs
Member
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# Posted: 9 Apr 2014 07:39am
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Gents,
I only discovered the Forum today and have read some inquiries as to other possible users of the same or a similar construction method as Stoney´s.
One may look up the Conastoga Log Home company´s web site. They have laminated "logs" in their products. I believe they are three-ply, as Stoney´s logs are, have the same interlocking system, and stack like his do. (Theirs are surely much more expensive.)
Thanks for all the great tips and super ideas! I am also a lover of logs, but am on a tight budget. Need a small retirement cabin with a loft. Do you guess Stoney´s method would suffice, barring any problems with inspectors?
Lover of Logs from TN
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CKH
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2014 02:24pm
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Hello Stoney,
Great building concept.
Some images here are Gif instead of Jpeg. As a result they don't download. Can that be converted?
Also, have you tried using Amazon self publishing? It may work better for selling your book.
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2014 03:27pm
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CKH,
I can't speak for others but all of the images that I have sent are Jpeg.
Will be looking into Amazon. Thanks
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Osrik
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# Posted: 22 Oct 2014 11:54pm
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Just want to say thanks Stoney for your book a year or so back like anything building we make our own mods and have our own ideas right or wrong but your idea was amazing and glad I took the chance on it... its coming together thanks well worth the few bucks for your book
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 23 Oct 2014 07:51am
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Osrek,
You're very welcome. Looks great on this location. I hope you enjoy it for years to come.
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CKH
Member
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# Posted: 2 Nov 2014 01:39am - Edited by: CKH
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On page 3 here, the images titled "Interlocking Walls" all four of which are in P.gif, format, which can be copied to email but cannot be opened or saved as j.peg. I attempted to use Paint to convert a few to j.peg but that failed also. There are a few others on this thread which are labeled j.peg but are really p.gif too.
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Nirky
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# Posted: 2 Nov 2014 01:55am - Edited by: Nirky
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CKH, what you might have to do is download a screen capture program, which will let you take a snapshot of whatever is displayed on your screen. That's the only way I know how to save an image from this forum, because it converts everything to an unusably-small .gif image.
I think Macs have built-in screen grab software. Damn those Macs.
Edit: If you have genuine image editing software already on your computer, you can open the desired image, copy it, and then in your image editing program make a new canvas or file or whatever it calls a new image, and paste the copied image in.
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CKH
Member
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# Posted: 2 Nov 2014 10:08am
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Thanks Nirky. No need to find a program. All Windows computers have a "prt sc" button, and I had forgotten about using it. Does need cropping and sizing (in Picasa) but, you're certainly right, that will do it.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 2 Nov 2014 10:28am - Edited by: MtnDon
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The easiest way to save images off this forum is to place your cursor on the thumbnail image. Right click and select "save link as...". That opens a window where you select the destination. Click "save" and you have a jpeg image in the larger size. That's with Firefox or Chrome. In MS IE use "save target as..." .
Do not left click on the thumbnail. Do not try to save from the larger screen image that opens when you left click on the thumbnail. That will result in you saving an image in gif format.
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CKH
Member
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# Posted: 2 Nov 2014 10:59am
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Thanks Don, that's the answer. Works perfectly.
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Searcher
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2014 08:59am
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Thanks Stoney for sharing this log method for building, it is the answer for my build. I plan to build a remote cabin that is only accessible by walking or atv for 4 km. Retirement is in my near future and I want to get a start on this project while I still can. On weekends during this winter, I am planning to build the logs and dry fit them together in my large shed. All the logs would be numbered and marked for reassembly at the cabin site. The foundation would to be rather large pressure treated post/pillars 3-4 ft into ground.
I am by no means a carpenter but I know enough to be dangerous. The 2x8 that I will use are "suppose" to be dry but they may of course have some water in them. After I build the logs and put them in storage, do you for-see any issues to reassemble at a later date due to possible shrinkage or warping? Any other thoughts that you have?
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Stoney
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2014 04:54am
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The logs could be a little tighter to stack at the time of assembly and may require a sledge hammer to get them all the way down if they should twist some in storage.
Be sure not to hit the tongue directly or it could make the next log even harder to set. However you may not experience much difficulty what so ever. Test fit a couple logs before you transport to your building site and you will get a pretty good idea if there will be any problems.
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