|
| Author |
Message |
Steeny
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 06:47pm
Reply
Wishing I bought pre-made plans, but too late now.
My cabin is 12x10. Got the subfloor all built and insulated. Front wall, along a 12' side, is 10' high and back wall is 8' high. It will be a single slope roof.
Working on the side walls now. Cannot figure out where to mark the studs to put in, so that 8' plywood will land on a stud, and then for the next row of plywood above that it has to start from the other end so it's staggered, but then it has to land on a stud. Heeeelp???
The front and back walls have 16" stud spacing.
|
|
rockies
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 07:18pm
Reply
The side walls should have 16 inch spacing as well. I don't know where you are placing door and window openings but I trust you know how to frame them in?
I take it you are creating a trapezoid shaped wall with 8 foot studs at one side and a ten foot stud at the other and individually cutting the remaining studs to fit? If so, run blocking between the studs at the 8 foot height so that the top edge of the lower sheet and the lower edge of the triangle shaped piece above it both have blocking to nail into. You might have to adjust the widths of the sheets as well to align with a stud.
|
|
Steeny
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 08:24pm
Reply
Door and window openings are all done in front and back wall. There are no openings being done on the side walls. Might add windows there in future, but for now, we can't figure out how to space the studs so plywood sheathing will land properly OC on studs.
|
|
Steve_S
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 08:56pm
Reply
Stud spacing is typically 16 or 24 inches on centre. Also keep in mind that a wall 8' height, 2 top plates and 1 sole plate, the studs should be cut to 92-5/8" as the plates will add another 4-1/2". You can purchase 2x4 & 2x6 studs pre-cut to that length but it adds to the cost a little bit.
|
|
Don_P
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 10:10pm
Reply
Cut the bottom, sole, plate for the sidewall and plop it down in place. Hook your tape over the outer corner of the front wall and pull. Mark 15-1/4" and put an X ahead towards 16", 31-1/4, 47-1/4" etc... in other words mark 3/4" before layout. The center of the stud is then at 4' and 8' from the front corner. Block all edges of sheathing, generally there will be half as much blocking to do if you stand the sheets up. You'll be buying 10' studs and cutting them to fit the rake angle of the top plate.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 10:18pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
You must pick a corner and pull all your measurements from that corner. Example, NW corner is your starting point. All walls running N to south, pull from North end. Even if you are doing a half wall from south to north, but it stops mid way, still pull from back. All walls running east and west, pull from the west side to east.
This keeps all studs aligned for things like rafters etc.
Use "studs", these are 92 5/8" long, and with the bottom and double top plates, you end up with a smidge over 8 feet walls. If you use 8 foot studs (96"), you will have walls too tall.
Many people refer to all 2X4 as studs, but a real stud is 92 5/8" long
OK, pulling layout for your wall. Lay your bottom plate down, secure the top plate to the bottom plate temporarily. This will ensure you mark the bottom and top plate exactly even with each other so you dont get sideways studs. Hook tape from NW corner, pull south and mark all your 16" marks, these will be red marks on your tape. Now the stud must center on that mark exactly.
As for sheeting, you do stagger your OSB etc, but run a full sheet, then next row, cut a half sheet, but start from the same end. Same goes for flooring, roof sheeting. T1-11 etc, you dont lay them sideways like a roof or floor. But all the joints will land on a stud.
Take your time, do the layout perfectly. Get a sawzall with a metal blade, if you have to un-nail something, this is a lifesaver and you will.
If you make an error, correct it ASAP, make sure its plumb, level and square. If you dont, the problem compounds itself the rest of the build and it slows you down so much and the further in your go, the slower it will be.
Ceilings are sometimes done at 24" centers, but this is mainly with trusses, rafters, and depending on size of lumber and span, you might have to go 16 vs 24" centers or some cases, even 12" centers.
Framing doors, make it 2" wider than the door and 1.5 to 2" taller. So if you have a 36" door, frame it for 38" wide and 81.5 to 82" tall. Remember on door openings, this measurement is from the floor, you will have the bottom plate which gets cut out later, make sure the measurement is from the floor, not from the top of that plate you cut out.
I am not a pro, I did hire a pro to help me frame in a dried in shell, great investment. This is items he taught me as we went along and I have picked up lots more good info on this forum from other members and those pro builders here.
|
|
Borrego
Member
|
# Posted: 8 Sep 2015 03:30pm
Reply
Quoting: Don_P Mark 15-1/4" and put an X ahead towards 16", 31-1/4, 47-1/4" etc... in other words mark 3/4" before layout. The center of the stud is then at 4' and 8' from the front corner. Block all edges of sheathing, generally there will be half as much blocking to do if you stand the sheets up. You'll be buying 10' studs and cutting them to fit the rake angle of the top plate.
This is the correct answer. Don didn't mention, but I'm sure he is building the wall on the floor and then standing it up. This makes it easier to snap a line for that rake angle on the 10 footers. And put in your 4' horizontal blocking while the wall is laying down as well, it is much easier...
If you pull and mark the 16" marks on your tape, you will be off somewhere and have to add a block. If you want to use the marks on your tape, you can also cut a piece of 1x (3/4") and use it to hook your tape on, thus pulling it back 3/4" and achieving the same end....here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSMzAKWSpBg
except always use a crowsfoot (<) not a straight line, it is not always clear which end of the line is correct....
|
|
Steeny
Member
|
# Posted: 8 Sep 2015 10:31pm
Reply
Thank you all! Makes sense about starting the sheathing at the same corner, so I got it all marked out for the stud placement on the foot plate. And now I have a pro coming to do a day's work on it tomorrow, as we are running out of time before weather could turn too cold/snowy here in central BC. He'll help get us a bit ahead and then we will continue doing what we can on weekends. Might hire him for another day later if needed.
|
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Sep 2015 08:58am - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
Quoting: Steeny so I got it all marked out for the stud placement on the foot plate
Set the top plate on the foot plate (clamp them if needed) and also mark the layout on the top plate too. So when you mark layout on the footplate, transfer them right up to the top plate too.
And of course, a second wall laid out and stood up, that ties into or butts to an existing standing wall, you deduct that amount on layout, ie shift layout 3 1/2" etc. Then a second top plate to overlap and tie all the corners (lock) together.
With your pro builder, you will do great. IMHO, that is a good investment. This is the critical part of the build, the framing. Everything else falls around that and good framing will determine if everything else comes together. Let us know how it all went and post some pictures too. 
|
|
Don_P
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Sep 2015 10:45pm - Edited by: Don_P
Reply
Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech Set the top plate on the foot plate (clamp them if needed) and also mark the layout on the top plate too. So when you mark layout on the footplate, transfer them right up to the top plate too.
Generally.. but this is a rake wall, Borrego had a good handle on what is going on. I think you understand and I do agree having a framer for a day or few is invaluable at this stage.
|
|
|
