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deryk
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# Posted: 2 Sep 2015 07:52am
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I am still trying to squirrel away a few grand for the spring to put down on a piece of land, personal loan for the balance.
Since I will be paying it off over 5 years, the next loan would probably be for a septic system so the town health person would be happy. I am probably going to build a smaller structure initially like a 12x12 or 12x16 single level that could one day when I retire be my workshop (I craft and make/build stuff)
The maintenance guy at work had a lengthy conversation with me about the merits of steel frame construction and since one of the pluses is lighter weight which when working alone is a big deal, I have been watching some video's and doing some reading on it.
Any opinions?
thanks
deryk
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 2 Sep 2015 09:35am - Edited by: MtnDon
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You will need to use rigid sheet foam on the exterior for wall insulation, just so you are aware of that.
And be sure it is the structural type for the load bearing ext walls.... much of what you see is for non load bearing partition walls. The stuff at my Lowe's and HD for example.
I'd rather use wood.
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deryk
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# Posted: 4 Sep 2015 11:59am
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Oh yes Don I from reading there is a big difference between load bearing and non load bearing.
I just see this as an interesting possibility because of its reduced weight for 1 person it could make it easier to build.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 4 Sep 2015 07:52pm - Edited by: Don_P
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in a 12x12 or 12x16 the weight of any member is not going to be a problem. Working in wood, solo I can raise a wall section, slide a brace into position and slap 2 nails into it while holding the wall and a level in the other hand, steel framing works fine and we are natural born problem solvers but I don't think of it as easier. There are sections on steel construction in the codebook with span tables and construction details
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JDPugh
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# Posted: 5 Sep 2015 10:15am
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I have spent the bulk of my working life in the commercial drywall & light gauge framing industry. I think light gauge framing is a great choice but as with anything their are pro's & con's.
It is correct that their are non-structural (generally 20 & 25 gauge) vs structural members (20,18,16,14,12 gauge) but the shape of the member plays a big part in the load bearing capacity. Their are also many clips and accessories you can use: www.clarkdietrich.com is a good place to see the full line. I would highly suggest that you skip Lowe's and Home Depot and find a specialty distributor in your area that supplies commercial contractors.
Keep in mind that if you are going to be inspected you most likely will need a framing plan that is engineered and has an engineers stamp. If it is a simple single story structure it will be a fairly simple. If it is a multi-level structure with big openings it can get pricey....maybe too pricey. A simple 16 x 24 cabin, single story with small windows can probably be built with a 20ga "CSJ" stud. Rafters will be light also but need to be sized by manufacturer (some may do for free) or engineer for any snow loads.
The con's are that the sizes in some cases are not standard so windows and jambs can be a bit of an issues. A 6" wood stud is 5.50" but in steel it will be a full 6". They also have a 5.50" stud and a 3.5" stud just be aware that the size is the size unlike wood. I would try to stay with these 3.50" & 5.50" if possible to make the windows and doors easier to purchase and install. Remember though that all non bearing interior walls can be 25ga which are light. Also, the wall can be easily built after the building is dried in which speeds up the dry-in process. Also bearing in mind that you can order the studs custom cut to any length from 7' to 40' which speeds things up and minimizes waste.
You can frame with metal and use a plywood sheathing screw attached, or you can use a gypsum based DensGlas or similar sheathing screw attached. I would go Densglas because plywood will be hard to attach to anything less than 18ga. With 20ga the screws will tend to strip out before pulling up tight. You can add a foam panel also if you are worried about thermal tranfer but I do not see that as a must have.
Batt insulation is different also. A fiberglass batt for 16"oc wood is made 15.50" wide while a metal stud batt will be full 16" wide.
Tools are also different you will most likely need a chop saw with metal cutting blade. Various clamps and such but not a big cost.
If you are building a simple single story cabin with rafters I would say its a great choice. If it's multi-story with lots roof elevation changes and many big openings....maybe not.
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deryk
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# Posted: 5 Sep 2015 11:44am
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Thanks JD!
The first build will be small and simple...would probably eventually become my workshop when I build a more substantial cabin after saving for a few years and getting closer to retirement to become a full time home. For the next 15 years it's just a weekend get away place just for me(single and like it that way).
I agree 100%, I would be ordering it from a distributor so once I have a plan I like I can order the pieces to size and minimize waste. I saw a video from New Zealand that they formed the beams and framed out a 20' some foot tiny home on a trailer with a team (experienced guys) in about 5 hours...pretty impressive.
Because I don't live near whatever piece of land I will be buying (Probably 2-3 hours away...central NJ is not where I want to live, nor could afford lol) I could probably frame it out in a long weekend and wouldn't have to worry so much about it being exposed wood to the elements.
The video's I was watching they were building with 16 gauge primarily with 14 gauge floor's and roofing members. I read you can do longer span's but even my dream home wouldn't be very large because honestly, how much space does 1 guy need? As long as I have a shop to craft/build stuff in I am happy. And growing up in a ranch, living on a sailboat for almost 10 years 1 level works for me (Maybe a storage loft for some extra stuff like off season clothes that I wouldn't be accessing often).
I like to be open minded that there are different ways to do things and some of the reports I read on the life span of the galvanized studs will most likely outlast my lifespan.
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JDPugh
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# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 03:00pm
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For a simple, single story building they are really great especially if you have limited help. Look at the Trade Ready Floor System and the Trade Ready Headers at Clark Dietrich. Also the HDS header & jamb systems. Perfect for this situation. The studs come with a G60 galvanized finish which is fine for most uses, however if you are in near the ocean or just want to be double sure you can order the G90 galvanized.
Clark Dietrich materials are widely available, however most of the major manufacturers have similar products.
The attached file is a bit dated but will help maybe.
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deryk
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# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 06:58pm
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Thanks JD...more to read!
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rockies
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# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 07:25pm
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I am responding to your second objective, which was putting in a septic system. Depending on your need or want for water (dishes, laundry, shower, cooking, etc) you might be able to reduce the size and cost of a septic system if you can use a composting toilet and a greywater system. Some regions allow this, some don't. If they do allow a composting toilet you might save hundreds or thousands of dollar by putting in a much smaller waste management system. Doesn't hurt to check.
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deryk
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# Posted: 6 Sep 2015 07:39pm
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sadly Rockies most of the counties I have spoken to are unwilling on grey water systems. I will probably go composting toilet route but all the requirements seem the same 1000 gallon holding tank.
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