|
| Author |
Message |
raven62
Member
|
# Posted: 21 Sep 2010 09:40pm
Reply
hello new to the forum and could really use some advice on a small cabin im going to build its in northern michigan i got five acres with alot of red pine on it in the 18 to 34 inch diameter i want to build a cabin about 16x20 i have a friend who just bought a chainsaw mill and will be giving me a hand and we know nothing about working with logs it will be a learn has we go experience were trying to figure the best route to go we would like to square mill the logs and was wondering what would be a good size would it be ok to mill timbers in a size like 4x12 inches for the walls and set them up vertically seems like you could get more timbers from the logs by going this route? also what would happen if we milled the logs to that size and built with them right away with them being fresh cut would the drying out of the timbers cause to many problems with checking and warping? any help would be fantastic and thanks again.
|
|
raven62
Member
|
# Posted: 21 Sep 2010 10:39pm
Reply
have another idea been browsing thru the forum was thinking maybe using the chainsaw mill to make lumber and using 2x6 for the walls would i run into alot of problems using green fresh cut red pine lumber when it starts to dry after walls are made. thanks again.
|
|
fpw
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2010 06:45pm
Reply
I like Red Pine, works well. Hand scribed or round notched takes some practice and or time, but it works very well.
Milling with a chainsaw mill is also back-breaking work and takes some time.
If you want to speed up the process, hire someone with a bandmill to cut your logs.
D-logs cut and stacked horizontially seesm to be quite common.
For horiziontal logs plan on losing 3/4" per foot of wall height on green logs. Your doors and windows need to be keyed to allow for settling.
I cut some subfloor with chainsaw mill about 500 square feet, it took me a number of weekends to get this little bit of lumber. This little activity influenced me to purchase a sawmill.
There are a few places that have classes in timber framing and cabin building that, to me, were very worthwhile.
Such as the following:
www.northhouseschool.com
www.greatlakesshooloflogbuilding.com
|
|
fpw
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2010 06:46pm
Reply
www.northhouse.org
www.schooloflogbuilding.com
wrong link above...sorry
|
|
raven62
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2010 07:56pm
Reply
hello thanks for the reply and the info i dont like the idea of it settling that much how would it work if we used green dimensional red pine lumber? or if we sticker it and let it dry for a summer and use it in the fall of the year? are other idea is to use square cut timbers used vertically how long would be a good idea to let the fresh cut timbers dry before using? i was real worried about the dimensional lumber and the timbers warping and twisting etc while they were stickered and drying before using. thanks again for the info im off to check out the links you posted. thanks kris
|
|
raven62
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Sep 2010 07:59pm
Reply
oops forgot to mention only reason we would be using the chainsaw mill is because my buddy has one and a pair of echo 8000 saws so no cost there and we have weekend to do the milling. dont like the thought of it has back breaking but what can you do. lol
|
|
Anonymous
|
# Posted: 5 Oct 2010 06:15pm
Reply
The lumber needs to be felled in the winter to avoid leaking pitch long after its cut down.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 24 Oct 2010 10:10pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
Quoting: fpw I like Red Pine, works well. Hand scribed or round notched takes some practice and or time, but it works very well.
If this is the original poster first attempt at a log type structure. As long as you are milling the logs, I'd leave the outside exposed rounded, (D log type) then cut the top and bottom so they are all the same thickness from top to bottom. Then on the ends, instead of the time comsuming saddle notch or the swedish cope, try the "butt/pass" method. Lock the logs in place on the ends where tyey cross by drilling a pilot hole and driving in a chunk of rebar to pin it.
You want you logs cut in the winter, and you want them to contail les than a certain % of moisture. I'm not sure the exact numbers, but its critical. Windows must be able to float too.
|
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Oct 2010 04:27pm
Reply
Green, fresh cut, logs and lumber usually shrinks way too much if used to build without drying. A 12" plank for example can easily lose an inch of width.
|
|
|
