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thepalletco
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2015 10:11am
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I have a wood shabin built with 2x4s @ 24" and we have already done the insulation with paper backing. Can I run rough cut lumber right across the 2x4s for the interior walls or do I need to put up plywood first. If I go no plywood do I need to put up a poly vapor barrier or not worry about it? It will not be lived in but a few weeks a year as a hunting cabin. The outside is also already finished.
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Just
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2015 10:24am
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Depends were your cabin is , hot humid southern US. NO POLY,, northern US YES , USE POLY I.M.O..
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thepalletco
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2015 10:56am
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Gotcha. I am in the Southern US. So you think it is ok to just tack the 1x lumber right onto the studs?
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2015 03:50pm
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I will be using rough cut wood inside as well but I am in the North so I have to use a barrier of sorts. I'm building my walls with solid foam panels so that changes things a touch. I will be treating my wood after it's acclimated & before installation.
The wood will be tongue & grooved with the "bad side" towards the wall and nice side visible. Even with a bit of thickness variation (more character) it should work out well. I have a Planer so if needed I can run the thicker ones through there to get them within 2mm of the rest. At least I won't see gaps when the wood contracts in winter. (F-T residence for me)
And to answer your other question, yes you can attach it to your studs. I'd suggest using Galvanised Nails with small heads to hide them.
You should seriously consider a treated Kraft Paper barrier instead of Poly... There are synthetic Typar Types that do the same job for interiors.
Something else to ponder on... The wood will expand & contract with humidity levels & temps, so account for that when installing it and do not put them tight up to each other, they need a tiny bit of space to expand into else they "could" eventually buckle.
Alternate solution is to setup a router table and make it tongue & groove and putting the "best face" on the outside. Maybe the mill your getting the wood from can T&G it for you ? The Mill I am getting mine from can do it for small batches like mine... it's a mom & pop operation.
If the wood is already good & dry, you may consider some type of sealer, stain & sealer or a flat varnish. A good non-toxic stain with bug inhibitor in it may be the most prudent for long term. As we know, termites & other nasty critters just adore nice fresh raw lumber that's easy to chomp on without being disturbed. Imagine how P.O.'d you be to walk in and find that the Termites renovated in your absence.
Alternatively, you could mix up some Borax Solution. Using 4 cups of "20 Mule Team Borax" to 1 gallon of Hot Water available in stores or online from The Chemistry Store (Borax, 5 MOL)
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thepalletco
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2015 04:10pm
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Well I actually own a pallet mill and we get what we consider fall offs that are roughly 8-10ft long and 6-10 inches wide. Thickness varies between 1/2 and 5/8. I had planned on putting those in a heat chamber and drying them out and kind of piecing them together like a puzzle almost. I already have the batt insulation up. I had thought about putting up some kind of wrap or paper and staple it to the studs so that with the small gaps in the lumber in will just look black in between the gaps
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Don_P
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2015 09:42pm - Edited by: Don_P
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That'll work, I'd lean towards 15lb tarpaper across the studs as a black, breathable air barrier. If you do it over osb or ply you can run patterns that don't depend on hitting framing, yeah she wouldn't let me do the Bud Clydesdales on the ceiling in hardwoods either. Attached is a pic of two patterns that were done in flooring but could be done on any flat surface, this is some of the kind of pattern work you could do over a solid surface. That logo of JEB Stuart on his horse is in the floor of the company lobby, nice workmanship.
Steve, the form of boron usually used for insect and fungal control is a borate, disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, or DOT. One recipe I've seen from the USNavy was portions (I can't recall the ratio) of Borax and Boric Acid heated with water to form DOT. The way I get there is to buy Solubor or any of the other wettable DOT powders. What I got today is trade named Beau Ron but is the same wettable DOT powder, ~$50/25lbs which is enough to mix 25 gallons at ~10% solution strength. I made a plywood bottomed, board sided dip tray and set the boards in it green from the saw, the borate diffuses into the wood on the wet so green wood actually pulls it in better. About 3 minutes in the tank and then dead stack overnight, sticker the next day, same thing let it diffuse in wet. I got one sack of this for soaking the frame of the house I'm working on, we'll first wet the wood, scrub, rinse, flood on the borate and mop up. It is a micronutrient in soil but the word is micro, disperse planer shavings, etc well and it enhances the soil.
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brooksm29
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2015 09:59pm
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I am using rough sawn on the inside and it looks beautiful so far. I thought about using some hemp rope and stuffing it in the cracks for looks only. I have insulation and tar paper, so its not rele necessary. I will let you know how it turns out.
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Ontario lakeside
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2015 11:51pm - Edited by: Ontario lakeside
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We used rough sawn spruce, and we are very happy with the look. we had some shrinkage over the winter but most gaps are small. we used a poly vapour barrier over the insulation. Cold climate here.
I have a video that shows our installation if your interested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_RTL8lbQjc
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creeky
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# Posted: 3 Jun 2015 12:50pm
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i used rough sawn for my winter bedroom for the interior also. it looks amazing. everyone comments on how much they like it. and how good the room smells (like pine).
i have had some shrinking so i'm thinking to spray foam the gaps. trim and then caulk with this stuff
log jam chinking
or go with the twine/hemp rope. the rope would probably look better.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 3 Jun 2015 02:33pm
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If you already used paper faced batts, you may get mold in between that and another layer, poly or whatever. The paper (kraft) faced batts are a vapor barrier.
Many stopped using paper faced batts, since they are difficult to keep entirely intact with no tears or gaps when installing. Unfaced with poly is much easier to keep intact.
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rockies
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# Posted: 4 Jun 2015 07:45pm
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The walls must dry when they get moisture (rain) or humidity inside them or on the surface layers. If you have a moisture barrier on the outside of the cabin, the walls have to dry to the inside, so don't use poly.
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/do-i-need-vapor-retarder
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shnnn
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# Posted: 4 Jun 2015 10:45pm
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I'd definitely use tar paper instead of poly if I used an air barrier at all.
Will there be a heater and/or an AC in the space?
Is it in a climate with lots of rain and wind, or on a foundation that might allow moisture to seep in?
Is there a weather barrier or drainage plane (like house wrap or tar paper) on the exterior between the cladding and the studs?
I ask those questions because water has so many ways to get in our walls, both from the outside in and the inside out.
IMO, it's more important--and easier--to provide a way for moisture to get out than to try to prevent it from ever getting in. Poly could trap moisture in your wall. Plus, I'd much rather look through a knothole and see tar paper than plastic.
I helped a friend hang rough-cut, planed cypress as the interior cladding in his house. Boy, it's beautiful.
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old243
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2015 08:43am
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I used spruce on our camp walls. It was planed to the same thickness . The lumber was done with a half lap joint. This can be done on a tablesaw. or have it done on a shaper. The lap is left with lots of clearance.The next board covers the gap and allows for expansion. The building is not heated when we are not there. It has been up about 15 years now , with no problems. We also have a lot of tongue and groove. All the lumber came off our property. All the siding is left natural, no stain and coated with urethane . You could leave your lumber rough if you wish, by planning you will eliminate, twisting and cupping of the boards. Have fun with your project. old243
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