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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Insulation and poly question
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BryanL
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# Posted: 15 Mar 2015 10:17pm
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Wondering if anyone would be willing to comment if I am doing this right. Having a 12x24 barn built to be used as an occasional hunting cabin. It will be built with 2x4 16"oc on both walls and ceiling. Floors are marine grade plywood but not t and g. It will have J Hardie siding but does not have Tyvec wrap underneath it. I am doing everything I can to eliminate the problem with bugs and more importantly mice. My thought on the floors is to wood glue or caulk all the plywood seems and then go with carpet over the top. On the walls I am going to go with Roxul in the hopes of cutting down on mice nesting in it and then poly over the top. Debating with Roxul on the ceiling with poly over or regular fiberglass. Would like to save some money with fiberglass instead of Roxul but I would guess mice are just as likely to get in the ceiling as the walls so will probably stick with Roxul. I am not enclosing the upper area so don't believe I need to vent the area but might put a vent on each side anyway. Thoughts? I am building in central/northern MN so cold weather will be a concern.

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 15 Mar 2015 11:08pm
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Quoting: BryanL
I am not enclosing the upper area so....


Does that mean you will have a cathedral type ceiling? Or will the ceiling be flat and the space between ceiling and roof an attic? Maybe it is just me but I am confused on that.

If making a cathedral ceiling what size are the rafters?

BryanL
Member
# Posted: 16 Mar 2015 06:00am
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I should have used the right words. It will have a gambrel roof. Think of the prefab barns Derksen sells. Same basic thing. It will all be open and not closed off. Sidewalls will be 8' high and total height at center will be around 13'. Will have a loft area on one side. Sorry for the confusion.

Steve_S
Member
# Posted: 16 Mar 2015 08:04am
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I would stick with Roxul as opposed to Fiberglass simply for the lack of moisture retention & wicking plus the critters not liking it (mice will still disturb it somewhat).

With 2x4@16oc walls, without thermal break, you'll get roughly R13 insulation value. Note that the studs will transfer heat/cold without the thermal break. With batt insulation, you will need to put 6mil Poly on the walls & ceiling/roof to prevent moisture transfer into the insulation.

If the roof is 2x4 as well, I would very strongly suggest adding a foam thermal break on that, it will make it more liveable in all seasons. There is a few ways to do this depending on roof finish (tin/shingle), my personal favourite is tin. Better for rain capture and won't collect leaves / debris which can cause premature roofing failure.

Marine Grade plywood is a great product BUT some of them do off-gas for quite a while and are not to be used indoors... Be very very certain about which you are using ! You may want to consider using Bluwood which has a few extra advantages over Marine PW without a cost difference. It is sold at Lowes & other retailers, check your locality. You are better off with T&G boards so as it contracts & expands with humidity & temps you don't get gaps. Gluing PT to non-PT can cause heaves & buckling, nail/screw pops due to the differential in moisture/humidity absorption.

I would stick to area rugs which can be cleaned & aired out. Otherwise in a non full-time environment with varying humidity etc, it can quickly become something unpleasant.

You didn't mention what you are putting this on. Straight on dirt/gravel, concrete blocks/pads, skids/rails ? This will of course affect how you seal your floors against vermin / critters and how you manage the insulation. The one place I would not use "Batts" is in the floor, that is a job for foam, simply for moisture, critter resistance and maximized insulation.

BryanL
Member
# Posted: 16 Mar 2015 08:11am
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Thanks! It is going to be a floating cabin built on skids. Area is well drained and is mostly gravel/ sand. I have no intention of insulating the floor.

creeky
Member
# Posted: 17 Mar 2015 11:04am
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one good thing about vents is that you can take em out, put in a mouse trap, replace. you may need to this multiple times through the season. i don't know why I thought of this.

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