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madmav
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# Posted: 25 Jan 2015 11:41pm - Edited by: madmav
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Hi everyone! This is my first post.
So, my husband and I want to build a cabin in Michigan. We currently live in Ohio and we want to move back. We want a few acres of land in a rural area with a well and septic already on it. We would power the cabin with solar. This would be a full time residence, and we have two small children.
What we want to do is build a cabin from a pre-made "shed" or "barn". 20x20 feet in length, gambrel style roof with full second story and staircase. We would have a independent shed lot build it for us, 4x8 skids 24" o.c. 2x6 construction through the entire external framing of the cabin, roof and everything, 16" o.c. We would put it down on a cement slab, and hook it into the well and septic after it's built. When they frame it we will wrap it in housewrap and then put up the external siding. asphalt shingles, with the truss' 16" o.c made by 2x6 construction.
Wood or corn stove for heat, and if the right land came along and didn't have septic we would just use an incinerator toilet. We would frame the interior rooms with 2x4's and drywall it in. We're thinking about having them put house wrap on it, over a layer of sheathing before siding it.
Would this meet state wide minimum code requirements? Electric and plumbing aside, obviously we would have someone come in and do those for us, unless I feel comfortable enough to do them at the time after reading up on it.
In this same kind of question, what county/ town has the least restrictive building code requirements? We were looking into the Harrison area in Clare county. Is this a good area?
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Pookie129
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2015 04:40am
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State (Provincial) code requirements are one thing but then you will need to check each municipal/district/county requirements/codes/restrictions - as you mentioned Harrison area, Clare County
This link URL may help.
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RichInTheUSA
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2015 07:36am
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Where I live in VA... I've found that going to the building inspector's office ahead of time -- explaining the project I have at hand and asking for guidance & advice to adhere to the code goes a long way. That is of course, if you're not trying to circumvent the code.
Inspectors are generally good people with lots of knowledge on building. People like to share knowledge. Use them to your advantage, rather than considering them an adversary.
Getting opinions from the inspector on how to build also helps you to not have to "re-do" any part of your construction.
I've had this approach work by making an appointment with the head inspector and going into his/her office. Don't try to get advice while they are out at your place performing the inspection... you may annoy them, and make it harder for yourself.
Just my 2 cents.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2015 08:49am
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As Rich suggested, best to talk to the local building inspector first before starting on anything. I've done exactly that and he's saved me a heap of possible issues, came up with great ideas, couple of which I am incorporating.
As you have not bought a property yet and still "on the hunt" for that elusive wabbit, I'd suggest talking to locals you know in the areas of interest who have built places. Local building suppliers (not Home Depots) are also good at knowing about inspectors, county quirks & foibles and often "may just know a guy, who knows a guy, who's selling a property" (found one like that myself).
If you have selected a builder for you cabin they may be able to tell you about different inspectors within the differing counties - they may even know of some properties available. It never hurts to ask, you may be pleasantly surprised !
Re Well & Septic: From lessons learned dept.
It's fine to "want" to find a property with well & septic in place and would certainly save time, grief & expense ("if" everything is good). You should be cautious with this... For example a property which has a well & septic that is not in use or hasn't been in use for some time may not be any advantage. Properties where a house burnt down or was demolished where septic & well still exist are out there BUT need serious investigation first off.
!) Be sure to test the water from the well & have the septic inspected. (pre-purchase conditions)
!) Try to get as much info from the township/county as you can also before purchasing.. find out when septic installed & who (most record that), when well was dug etc...
!) If no "home" attached to Septic & Well find out when the home was taken down to know how long they have been static. IF static too long, maybe no good for use anymore.
Many debate 16 or 24 oc framing. Advanced Building Techniques generally adhere to 24oc 2x6 construction with energy corners, etc. This reduces materials used, improves energy efficiency and in most cases simplify construction, all of which save you money.
Concrete Slab: Frost Protected Floating Slab for such a size of building can be quite economical and if you put a nice finishing aggregate in the top layer of concrete and polish it, you can have really nice floors too. If you install PEX into the floor for radiant heat, you can heat the water/coolant with your wood/corn stove (using a radiator as heat collector).
Incinerator Toilet: Try one and see... not everyone is up for these. Also note that if your Off-Grid the heating element in these uses a LOT of power and is not good for battery banked systems. Vented systems don't use heating and don't stink if properly used. Composting with urine separation is most efficient and economical... There are many camps of opinion in this area, all work with varying results and varying degrees of "involvement with your waste" you have to find the solution that works for you in your instance, when you get to that point.
Corn/Wood Pellet & Other:
These are good and work well... pellet (hopper) stoves require power to operate the auger & fans. This must be considered when used in off-grid battery powered systems. There is also ongoing cost for fuel which can add up fast. If you get a property that has bush on it - what can I say... Another possibility to ponder would be Rocket Stoves or Thermal Mass Ceramic stove. The advantage of Rocket / Ceramic in a 20x20 space, you can heat it fast, cheap and retain heat long term in the mass saving you fuel & labour...
Hope that some of this helps and Welcome to the Cabin Family.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2015 10:58am
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Also to add more input, the colder climate there may require more than a 2X4 exterior wall. I know where my cabin is located, I cant even get the required insulation in a 2X4 wall without using expensive options I was told, so most build 2X6. If its going to be occupied and heated, your insulation will need to meet current code too. Floors require much more and even more, ceiling.
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creeky
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2015 11:22am
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Insulation: You might want to have a look at buildingscience. they have a good wall for your area. the "perfect wall." Basically you put the insulation on the outside of the house.
Solar: There are new batteries, lifePO4. lithium ferrous phosphate you will want to look at. They seem pricey upfront but the benefits are real and long term costs are lower. They would also let you use some of the more energy intensive devices you seem to want ... (incinerating toilet. pellet stove two kids). URL has some LFP info. You can also look at the LFP thread here. Which pretty much covers the benefits.
Over an incinerating toilet look at composting toilets. Clivus Muldrum moldering toilet designs are efficient and easy to maintain. Some of the prefab models are gov't approved.
For heat. Start with lots of insulation. I use propane furnaces with wood stove supplement in my great room. Works for me. I spend about 6-800/yr heating three separate buildings. So I do like insulation.
You might find metal roofing to be comparable especially on a building that size. And with a lower long term cost ...
Good luck.
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madmav
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2015 11:25am
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The asphalt roofing is more for aesthetic purposes. I like the look better. My husband was saying something about lithium batteries for the solar. He's the expert on that.
I'll take a look at the perfect wall thing, though. 
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razmichael
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2015 12:01pm
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Quoting: madmav What we want to do is build a cabin from a pre-made "shed" or "barn". 20x20 feet in length
Although this may work just fine, don't exclude the option of finding a local builder/framer in the area that could put this up on-site. This is not a large building and, given your intent to do all the finishing (even the wrap) yourself, a local crew might give you more on-site flexibility and be able to react to changes during the build without much (if any) increase in cost. Depending on the current building market in the area - it could prove to be cheaper. As a residence (not a recreational cabin), you may find that, by the time you get a shed builder to make all the modifications you need, it would no longer be that cost effective a way to go using a remote shed builder. Can't say for sure but something to consider. It also rarely hurts to be using local crews that know the rules, the inspectors, the other trades etc.
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justincasei812
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2015 02:47pm - Edited by: justincasei812
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Madmav,
If you are considering the Clare/ Harrison area I would check with the local Amish community. They are pretty prevalent in the area and could possibly build a cabin or whatever you like. I have a cabin in Grayling, MI and travel 127 most weekends which goes through right through Clare and Harrison.
Kevin
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