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grover
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2015 05:34pm
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Is there any reason to wait for the exterior siding to be done before interior wall finish? Plan on looking for some ship lap or t & g pine to do the inside but we still don't have the siding on and probably won't till spring because of the weather. Insulation, and plumbing vents are finished. Wiring is mostly done but wiring for exterior lights is just punched through the sheathing. I'm trying to think if there is any reason we can't start on the inside.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2015 07:36pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Yes, the siding is the sheer strength unless you are wanting to use planking on the outside or a beveled siding etc. then you would have the underlayment (plywood or OSB), but it would be sheeted either way. The structure gets real weak as you go further into the build adding weight with just side bracing. It could even get dangerous. So you want to sheet it as soon as you can (before a roof is attached anyway, a second floor would be OK, then do what you want on the inside.
I helped a buddy build a toolshed and put off siding as long as I could. We were adding roof and it was just too wobbly. We sheeted the sides with 1/2" real plywood T1-11 and its became rock solid after than.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2015 09:20pm
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If the building is sheathed in OSB or other structural panel then the building has its shear strength in place. The siding is then more or less cosmetic. If the weather resistant barrier, housewrap or building felt (tar Paper) is left exposed to the weather too long though, it will deteriorate. Housewraps usually have maximum exposure times listed. Felt dries out if left exposed too long. Wind damage can occur with both. If the wrap is not yet installed then the sheathing will be weather damaged and the structural integrity may be damaged. So, yes it is best to get the exterior finished as soon as one can.
Yu mentioned having electrical punched through the sheathing. What is the final siding to be? Think ahead and make sure those electrical, and other, perforations are well flashed. If lap siding is to be used think ahead to how the light fixtures, outlets, whatever are to be mounted. Using trim thickness blocks at fixtures can simplify the siding process and make for better weather resistance.
... a picture can explain that best...
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grover
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2015 10:32pm
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What is that outlet box Mtn? Is that just a piece of siding cut in a square?
Yes, it is sheathed in osb then house wrap. We punched the wires thru the osb at the approximate place the light will be. I will be using lap siding and I'd like the base of the light to be within one full piece of siding (vertically) if possible. Question Mtn, can I screw a pancake type box directly to the osb and then cut the siding around it then mount the light? I was thinking it would work if there was enough room for the wires. Otherwise I guess I'll have to cut a hole in the osb for a box,...octagon,round, or square, not sure which is the proper one to use.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2015 10:51pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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The picture shows pieces of trim used flat, in plane with the sheathing for the outlet or light fixture to be mounted to. For my lights I used a pancake box mounted to the trim square; the light fixture mounts over the pancake box. Doing this keeps the light properly vertical. The lap siding fits around the trim piece ōin a manner similar to the way the lap siding abutts the corner, window and door trim. A slight gap that is caulked. I don'tlike boxes cut into the sheathing as that is a big invitation to a future water leak point.
Sorry I don't have a better detailed photo. By using the same material as the corner, window and door trim thelap siding joins up just like at the doors and windows. I used the Vycor flexible flashing under the block the same as one would flash a window or a door.
Hope that helps.
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