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Gotta Gettaway
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2014 05:01pm
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Hi
Built a cabin this year about 45 mins from Bancroft.
I have had the house wrap exposed for about 8 weeks now and no leaks or anything, but I am now ready to do my siding (I need 400 sq feet essentially, so have to purchase about 450 sq ft). I know there are some mills and lumber yards around the Bancroft area. Does anyone have any suggestions on type of wood (cost is an issue as I don't want to spend more than about $500 on siding)? types of siding? vertical vs horizontal? And does anyone have places in my region that you would recommend using?
Any help would be appreciated immensely. As a first timer doing this I love getting to see this dream come alive, as well as being able to learn so much along the way.
Backside (Don't mind the fascia, replacing)
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2014 06:00pm - Edited by: bldginsp
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Is fire a threat in your area? If so I suggest Hardi siding, made of cementious materials. If fire is not a threat, you might check with local small sawmills, you might find a good deal. Cedar is good just because it is resistant to rot. But you can use anything. All siding has to do is protect the underlayment so it stays waterproof. The siding itself can leak a bit toward the underlayment, so long as the water can get to the bottom and get out.
You should flash the top of your window with flashing that overlaps the window fin and under laps the house wrap.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2014 06:29pm
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BLDG took the words rigth out of my mouth. Do you have OSB under that wrap, or jujst studs? If its studs, you need a sheet siding. If its sheeted under the wrap, then you can use the planking and those are much easier for a guy going ti by himself. You can get hardi siding in planks too. But warning, cement siding reqwuires a special blade (diamond) and wear a face mask, the dust is horrible and it can cause a debilitating lung disease known as silicosis. And nailing it can be tricky, its like sheetrock, you dont want to bust the skin or you lose the strength of what little there is. (reason it must use an underlayment like OSB)
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Gotta Gettaway
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2014 08:44pm
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BLDG - Fire is not really an issue with the area I am in. I have been in contact with a couple local sawmills, just am looking to see what others thought. I will be flashing the windows when I do the siding, which will be the weekend after next.
Toyota - I do have OSB underneath that house wrap. I am really leaning more towards wood from a local mill I believe. The cost of the cement siding was going to be almost twice what it looks like I will be able to get from a local mill in the area. Luckily, in my area, there is quite a bit of logging happening.
Thanks for the input guys! Always nice to hear suggestions.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2014 10:08pm - Edited by: Don_P
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If rough sawn clapboard, take the thickness of 2 pieces and that is your minimum window, door, and cornerboard trim thickness. A bit more to give a reveal would be ideal. Trim thickness is one thing that is often forgotten when ordering rough sawn but is easily made while running the order. The old houses here were often done in 5/8 thick tulip poplar clapboards.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2014 11:39pm
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DonP- is tulip poplar a rot resistant species? Anything 'poplar' on the west coast equals garbage (I mean local native species, not lumber yard poplar, which comes from back east)
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Don_P
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# Posted: 23 Sep 2014 06:32am
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No it is not, I replaced some that was over a century old a couple of weeks ago. My focus there was more on the 5/8 thickness though, it makes trim work better. I imagine your poplar is "popple", aspen.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 23 Sep 2014 08:53am
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Though not rot resistant, as siding it is where it can drain and dry well, which I suppose is why it can last 100 years.
Our west coast 'popples' are variously called aspens, cottonwoods, and sometimes poplars, and are all pretty much useless for building, being spongy and punky, very water absorbing and prone to rot quickly. Make good landscaping. I want to put quaking aspen on my property, but it requires a lot of water.
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Gotta Gettaway
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# Posted: 23 Sep 2014 04:03pm
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Thanks guys. Am looking at pine as it's abundant in the area and relatively cheap (half the cost of cedar locally). I am planning on staining and sealing it before installation. Suggestions on what to use?
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Don_P
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# Posted: 23 Sep 2014 11:00pm
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As one builder told me "They're all the best, just read the can  "
I make a drip tray or dip tank using long rips of plywood for the bottom and 2x6's for the sides. Caulk everything while assembling and stitch the ply to the frame well. A hole in the end for draining into buckets and appropriate dowel stopper if it is a dip tank rather than a drip tray... but either way working in a tank allows you to really get it onto all sides well. I use a heavy nap roller and work the stain in then set the boards on sticks over the tank to drip out for a minute before going to a drying rack.
Take a cottage cheese or large yogurt container, cut an X in the lid. Stick the handle of a small cheap paintbrush up through the lid. Keep some stain in that with the brush end just immersed by your cutting bench. When you cut a piece of siding hit the fresh cut end with some stain. Stick the brush with lid back into the container.
Transparent finishes let the light all the way through and fail the quickest, they are also the prettiest to my eye. High maintenance, the wood shows through best.
Semi transparent is somewhat opaque, there's paint overtones but the wood grain is still visible.
Solid stains are the paint of the stain world, you see the color of the stain and little else. They last the longest.
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Gotta Gettaway
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# Posted: 24 Sep 2014 02:13pm
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Thanks very much Don. That sounds like a good efficient tip. I appreciate all the input and suggestions.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2014 12:58am
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What direction are you 45 minutes from Bancroft? I'm asking because south east of Bancroft, there is a large lumber mill called Chisholm Lumber near Roslin which is off of highway 37 north of Belleville. I think map quest shows it is about an hour and 15 minutes from Bancroft. When I did an addition on my cabin in 2010 I purchased most my lumber from there. I used board and batton rough pine siding. They also had pine siding in different profiles including a log profile. I used that for my inside. Their prices were very reasonable. They also have a great website. May be close enough for you to check out.
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Gotta Gettaway
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2014 07:37am
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Great thanks skoota. I will check them out. I have been looking at Northwoods lumber, in Bancroft, but local mills are always interesting. I will also need wood for inside later this fall.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2014 08:45am
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I liked dealing with them as well because they showed me where the different wood was piled and they had no problem with me going through the pile to pick the pieces I wanted.
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Gotta Gettaway
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2014 09:15pm
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That's one of the greatest things about staying local.
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