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Ontario lakeside
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2014 11:35pm
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Hey all
Im thinking of using 1X6 pine boards on the interior walls. Not Tongue and groove but simple boards. I got the idea from these videos.
Has anyone done this? How did it work out? Any issues?
Thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsG8WZN2FIk&list=PL156AE490198B14C8&index=50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWAlNR2eH0E&index=111&list=PL156AE490198B14C8
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 12:04am
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We used square edged 1x6 on the ceiling of the gazebo. There are gaps between boards here and there, more in places and less in others. The boards were dry at installation. The spaces do get smaller during July - Aug when we get our rain. For our application it is alright. However, I would not want that inside the cabin. That would allow way too much air movement in and out of the walls and would defeat some of the value of the insulation.
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Ontario lakeside
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 12:09am
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Thanks Mtndon
I am installing vapor barrier and house wrap so some of the air leek issues are taken care of. I like the look and it would save me about $700
But you make a good point....
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Malamute
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 01:44am
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It would save you that much compared to tongue and groove?
I've used No 3 T&G for ceilings and it cost less than No 2's. I don't recall the percentage of difference. I had little to no waste with poor boards, as my supplier thought I may. I really had very little problems with them. They had a few more knots per board, that's about all the difference I saw.
I've done traditional log cabin ceilings with regular 1x boards. It worked out alright, but there was serious barrier material behind them.
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Turbogeno
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 06:33am
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I used all rough cut 1x8. Board and batton outside and horizontal on the walls inside. 2x4 walls, full vapor barrier and insulation everywhere. I had them stickered and under cover for 6 months before using them. Due to shrinkage and the nature of rough cut there are gaps and different widths and thickness's but I think it looks fine, I wanted it rustic. There is very little if any air movement through the walls. Double pane windows, 14x16 foot print. Once it's warm in there it takes VERY little heat to keep it that way right into the single digits.
Thanks, Geno
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TheCabinCalls
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 02:28pm
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I have seen old pallet boards used like this. It looked really great. If you are making up for the moisture and air with something I say go for it.
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CaptCanuck
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 08:50pm
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^aren't pallet boards treated with chemical pesticides? I don't think I would want them in my house, let alone bedroom.
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Nirky
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 09:02pm
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I wouldn't think so, pallets are almost always made out of the cheapest wood available and they don't need to last long, just hold product for shipment.
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CaptCanuck
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 09:14pm
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Google "are pallets safe to use". Lots of information and warnings i.e.:
Any pallet you find may have been:
1) exposed to chemicals and/or toxins. These can include toxic bacteria from food or animals, chemicals and/or drug residue.
2) fumigated with toxic insecticides to prevent insect infestation.
There's no way for us to be able to tell how much danger there is in using pallets, but we can tell you what we do know.
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Ontario lakeside
Member
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 09:25pm
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I like the look, but the unknown chemical nature would scare me off. I will be using kiln dried red pine.
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TheCabinCalls
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 10:22pm
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I wasn't saying to use pallet wood - just that the technique of squared edged boards will work.
BTW - we get pallet wood direct from the sawmill so there are no chemicals. The sawmill doesn't add anything to the wood or treat them in anyway.
A lot of construction materials (osb, carpet, insulation, paint, adhesives) are still harmful in some respect, but it is good to find out for sure.
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morock
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 10:27pm
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I am doing something similiar with cedar in my shower stall but I put a half lap on the boards. That way when they shrink you don't get holes. I am doing virtually my entire cabin out of #2 knotty pine T&G, you really can't find a more beautiful material, and it's so inexpensive. I buy 1x8 t&g for $0.59 sq/ft. and thats retail, you could do better at a mill and I'm in eastern Ontario.
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tcmatt
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 10:33pm
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I'm planning on "paneling" the interior of my 12x16 using horizontal 1x6's, 1x8's, and 1x10's. Im planning on pickling the ceiling boards and just going with natural grain on the walls - with the exception of one board at about eye level that I plan to stain a bit darker. I'm either going to create shiplap boards to avoid the gaps using a friends shaper/router or not shiplap and simply staple white rosin paper to the ceiling and tan rosin paper to the walls to hide the insulation in the gaps. I don't mind the gaps, but I used different brands of insulation - some with white backing paper and some with tan.
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Ontario lakeside
Member
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2014 11:00pm
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morock
Please tell me where you get T&G for .59 cents a square foot!
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Wilbour
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2014 09:18am
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Quoting: Ontario lakeside Please tell me where you get T&G for .59 cents a square foot!
Probably means a "linear foot"
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razmichael
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2014 09:36am - Edited by: razmichael
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Quoting: Wilbour Probably means a "linear foot"
Don't know for sure but the mill I picked up my interior T&G (and exterior siding) from (Les Bois Heritage) which sells the 1x8 Grade B for .55 per sq foot (.35 linear foot). Grade A for .99 Sq ft. Canadian Prices!
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Malamute
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2014 02:13pm - Edited by: Malamute
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Quoting: tcmatt I used different brands of insulation - some with white backing paper and some with tan.
You may want to use the unfaced insulation and cover with plastic. Its much easier to get air movement stopped that way. Any small tear, and gaps on the edges of the kraft faced (paper) can allow air movement. The insulation guys I've used told me that using faced batts and plastic wasn't a good idea, it can trap moisture between them and cause mold. I run the plastic snug, cut the plastic over the electric boxes snug in an X pattern stretched over the boxes, and tape all the edges at corners and ceiling.
I don't recall where I saw it, but pallets are stamped with codes as to what they are treated with, if anything. Those from overseas are likely to be treated, domestic may be as well. A google search may turn up the info. The discussion I saw originally came up in regards to people using pallets for firewood.
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LDamm
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# Posted: 2 Aug 2014 08:03am
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I used rough sawn, blue stained, bug holed, pine boards in my shed. Worked really well. I think the key was the mill rough-rough cut the boards then kiln dried them, then finial cut the edges so I have almost no gaps.
I did the same board tonge and grove on the ceiling for easy of installation.
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CaptCanuck
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# Posted: 2 Aug 2014 08:57am
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Something to keep an eye (and ear) out for is rural sawmills shutting down and selling off their stock. We got really lucky and our little cabin was built almost entirely with lumber that was discounted about 80%.
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Ontario lakeside
Member
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2014 09:11pm
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Thanks for the info all. I decided to go for it, rough sawn no T&G. I will post video of the results.
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gunslinger22
Member
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2014 11:11am
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You could take a dado blade to the boards and give them a shiplap.
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project_north
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2014 03:29pm
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That is exactly the same look I am planning for the walls at my place. I intended to prime both sides of the pine boards to prevent cupping after installation. Do you think that's a wise move? I also have the house wrap, insulation and full vapour barrier plus am in Ontario.
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morock
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2014 10:24pm
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Here is the link to the place where I get my pine. I'm lucky it's on the way to the cabin. http://www.pro-pin.ca/
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CaptCanuck
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2014 06:40am
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^neat store, close to my home too (Ottawa) 
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SteveF
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# Posted: 9 Aug 2014 09:33am
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Here is a link that was passed on to me for a supplier:
Les Bois Héritage
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Hunterda98
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# Posted: 10 Aug 2014 10:03pm
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CaptCanuck: what did you finish your boards with? I love the natural look. We are bulding a cottage just outside Algonquin park and want exposed wood framing on the inside. We will put iso on the outside of the walls and above pine roofing boards and between two layers of plywood on the floor. But not sure how to treat the interior wood. Especially the Douglas fir beams. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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morock
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# Posted: 12 Aug 2014 07:04pm
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Hunterda98: I have used products from this company. very good but not cheap. http://www.canadianloghomesupply.com/index.htm They are just outside the east side of the park.
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Wilbour
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# Posted: 13 Aug 2014 04:17pm - Edited by: Wilbour
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I asked Pro-Pin for an estimate delivered to Wolfe Island. I am looking for 700sqr ft. Here is the reply: Good morning,
Sorry, we can't delivery a small order over such large distance.
Regards, Mike
From: Contact
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