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Jeremy
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2014 10:04pm
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I am looking for advice on a materials list I have put together for a 16x20 cabin our family will be starting this spring. I want to get off on the right foot so any tips/advice will be greatly appreciated. I hope to have it framed and dried in by fall. I originally wanted to saw the lumber, dry it, and build with rough cut lumber from the land we are building on. With the lack of time and looking at others skill level compared to mine dimensional lumber may be a better starting point.
I was hoping to start in spring of 2013 but my wife and I found out we were expecting a baby in the fall. This gave us extra time to think, dream and look at ideas from all of you!
So, the foundation... 16'x20' cabin with 8' screened porch, with my beams running 20' in length. Am I right expecting to put 3 beams consisting of (2) 2x10x20' notched into a 6x6x8 post or is there a better solution?
Posts will be set in 4' holes with cement and looking to have foundation at least 2 feet from ground level. Can the joists be toe nailed into the beams or will I need joist hangers?
If I put the porch on right away, can I use 2x6x8 for the joists under the porch? Do I need something more besides the beam from the cabin to support the porch like a ledger board on a house?
I will try to figure out how to post pictures of the floor plans if this may help.
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Jeremy
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# Posted: 9 Mar 2014 10:07pm
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If anyone is interested in the plans I purchased I can email them via a PDF.
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VTweekender
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2014 12:43pm
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Congrats on the baby on the way!!
You would set the 20' built beams on top of the posts that are going 4' in the ground, then build on top the beams....so that your joists rest on top the beams..you would then use rim boards around the outer edge to close it in.....use at least 3 beams , a beam on the outer edges with joists overhanging them on top a few inches, and a middle beam. 4 rows of beams would be more sturdy though. As for the porch, hard to know what you mean axactly, but that span will be springy without middle support.
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mongo1
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2014 02:27pm
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Jeremy,
I just built my 16x20 last year here in Penna.I also used 6x6,s down 40inches and concreted in.2x10,s doubled on the outside and as my middle beam.6x6,s were notched to receive the 2x10,s and carriage bolted together.I used 2x8,s for floor joist(with outside and middle beams added in was less than 8 foot span-actual floor joist span is 7'7&1/2inches) and definitely put on joist hangers.I shot my 6x6,s for the notch cuts with my transit and everything was within a 1/4inch.Figuring that us humans were doing all the cutting.Ha-ha!!My cabin is off the ground about 3 feet which makes good for putting stuff under it.Have fun and have a great day!!
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Jeremy
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2014 07:19pm
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perfect thanks for the advice. Mongo did you use 16 foot joists or did you use 8 footers and use joist hangers on both ends and the middle? or just rest the joists on the middle beam? Did you insulate under the joists?
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knock
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2014 08:49pm - Edited by: knock
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Jeremy,
I started my 16x20 in 2013.
I used two beams (but used 2x10's for my joists). I also secured my beams directly to the tops of the piers (so I don't have to worry about the wood posts rotting out). May not be an option if you have a sloping grade or want alot of clearance under your building.
Agree with VT that the joists should go on top of beams and to-nails should work, no joist hangers needed. You could always used hurricane clips or twist straps for piece of mind to connect joists to beams.
I insulated between the joists with foam board.
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mongo1
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# Posted: 10 Mar 2014 09:54pm
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Jeremy,
I used 8 footers with joist hangers at ends and in the middle.That was my preference but on top of the beams with floor joists is another option.I have not insulated the joists yet.I was up to the cabin a good bit this winter with some days in the negative degree range and was warm with my woodstove.I do plan on insulating some day and will either cut in styrofoam or do the spray foam method.Good luck and have fun with it!!
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Jeremy
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# Posted: 11 Mar 2014 02:17am
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I was originally planning on 8 footers with joist hangers, as I feel more comfortable with that for long term durability. I think I will stick to buying almost 60 hangers... 2x10 beams everyone is agreeable with that it sounds like.
If I do insulate it with the roll insulation do you put the paper side towards the ground or the floor decking? I'm going to be putting osb on both sides of the joists. Anyone have any opinions bout mesh lining for insects and rodent proofing?
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knock
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# Posted: 11 Mar 2014 10:18pm
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Jeremy - If you use faced insulation, the craft face goes to the warm in winter side ( paper towards the floor).
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 13 Mar 2014 02:21pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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Quoting: Jeremy ....plans I purchased...
Quoting: Jeremy ..... I can email them via a PDF
Isn't there an ethical problem here if they were purchased?
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paulz
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# Posted: 9 May 2014 10:07am
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Quoting: knock Agree with VT that the joists should go on top of beams and to-nails should work, no joist hangers needed. You could always used hurricane clips or twist straps for piece of mind to connect joists to beams.
I have been wondering about this too. So with joists sitting on beams do most people attach them, toe nail, straps or just let them sit? Building code?
Thanks.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 9 May 2014 09:38pm
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Hmm, building code and where to begin.
A pier foundation is non prescriptive and requires an engineer's blessing per code. Sitting a laterally unsupported beam on the pier is outside of code, look at the girder under the tilting pier thread, and the piers for reasons behind those two.
Prescriptively a continuous perimeter foundation is used. There is no outside girder needed on the continuous foundation wall since there is continuous support. With the floor anchored to the foundation, lateral movement is restrained and a dropped center girder is possible.
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Jeremy
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# Posted: 10 May 2014 12:22am
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I will be starting to clean up the property tomorrow and plan to have the gravel brought in for the driveway and under the cabin and posts set by Memorial Day. I will attach pictures as progress is made. A critique would be appreciated as I move forward. I hope I can given an example of what to do rather than what not to do. Thanks for everyone's input thus far!
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pcroom
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2015 01:15am
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mongo1
I was reading one post about how u built your cabin and wanting to ask you a question if you could help me.
Im biulding a 16x16 like barn style but with a regular roof the upstairs will be a full loft ok now my beams are less then 7' foot apart do I need 2x12 for my floor joist because of my second floor and the weight or will 2x10 be fine???
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Sheeterdan
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2015 09:14am
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Hey was wondering if it's to late to get a copy of those plans. Want to build a cabin and a barn in the near future. But just still debating on size and design. I have a tenisey to over think things . Thanks Dan
Dlsiefer@gmail.com
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Don_P
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2015 11:47am
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Hi there, here is my email, I would like to conspire to commit federal copyright theft... just sayin
pcroom, you said you own a codebook, span tables are in chapter 5.
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pcroom
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2015 01:10pm
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No I don't have anything that tells me what I should use!
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ddurrett896
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# Posted: 6 Jan 2016 05:07pm
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Can you send me a copy of the PDF? ddurrett896@gmail.com
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Blossom80
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2016 03:50pm
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Jeremy
yea is there a way to get a copy of plans to courtemanchead@gmail.com?
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darren
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# Posted: 5 Feb 2016 11:20am
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Jeremy
I'd like a copy of the plans, if the offer still stands.
darrensusin AT gmail.com
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cscmtp
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2016 09:48am
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Jeremy
Jeremy would love to know what your foundation ended up costing. Trying to figure what path to take with our new cabin
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