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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2014 01:14am
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I am looking at building a cabin about 860 sq. ft. The area where I want to build has limited access and the techno post seems to offer a solution. Has anybody here used techno metal posts as a foundation for a building? We are a building in BC
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2014 07:43am
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Yes, and I think they were Canadian, building next to a river. I don't know how to locate the post. It had good photos of the process and the owner was happy with the result. Sorry I cant point you to it.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2014 07:45am
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Found it:
http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3708_0.html#msg59801
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old243
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2014 09:49am
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my son mentioned using them as a base , for a deck and dock they were building . At a customers . I didn't see them . probably something similar. Old243
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2014 11:52am
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Thanks buildinginsp, I checked out Divers post and it answer lots of questions for me. I posted a few questions more. Looking forward to spring.
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old243
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2014 03:45pm
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something similar to this is used by electrical utilities, etc, as a base for line towers communication towers etc. In unstable ground they just keep adding additional lengths until they reach firm ground that will support the load. Swamp , muskeg etc. . Old 243
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rockies
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2014 05:52pm
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Hi. I have mentioned these posts in several different threads for situations where there is limited access. if you can get their small installation machine into the site, they can install them. I plan on using them myself when I build. They have several different models that are rated for different loads, but their engineers will help you pick the right one and provide documentation for the building inspector to prove they can support the weight of the cabin. You can also get a "frost sleeve" installed around it in case you have freeze/thaw problems.
http://www.technometalpost.com/en/dealers/canada-2/
I plan on building in BC as well, although my cabin will be about half the size of yours.
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2014 08:24pm
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Thanks Rockies. Like to get some feedback on the product if I can, before I spend the Big bucks! Diver's post that buildinginsp linked is very interesting!
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2014 09:54pm
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Talked to Techno Post supplier/installer and yo building inspector today. The installer says he would install 5 5" posts for perimeter plus 7 3" posts for intermediate loads and 5 2 " fir deck support. The building inspector says I will need an independent engineering stamp on the completed foundation for him to accept. Still working on this, and hope to get it to work
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rockies
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2014 10:07pm
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I thought Techno had in-house engineers that evaluate the strength of the posts based on the torque needed to screw them into the ground? If they are going to be out there anyways to put in the posts, why not use bigger posts for the whole cabin? I am considering the comment made in the "Diver" thread about lateral stability. Might as well overdesign.
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2014 03:52pm
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They do have in house engineers, however the building inspector seems to want an independent stamp. That's not unheard of, but we are working on it. They may yet agree to the in house engineering. I will keep you posted. As for posts, I think we have some over design right now and I am fine with that.
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 8 Mar 2014 01:44am
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Working with truss supplier to provide tech info for beam sizes and spacing of posts. Will take this info to redraw foundation drawing. Should be ok with building insp.
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morock
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# Posted: 15 Mar 2014 11:55pm
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I thought I should post my experience with Techno-Post technology and my cabin. First off a disclaimer that there are so many variables at work here it is hard to say with conviction that anyone item is the problem. I built a 24 x28 cabin used 15 x 5 inch piers in three rows. The soil is wet clay with no support, so the posts have minimal helix and extend down 12 feet to bedrock. The post alignment was not great and I also had to shim almost every post. All the corners have cross bracing done in triangle form and yet, the building has noticeable movement. TP came back and installed 4 of the regular helix posts at 45 degree angle off the corners and welded them in place to the corner posts, this did make a noticeable improvement. The building is on a slight grade with the floor beams being 2 feet off the ground at one end and the other end of the building is just over 3 feet.
The building still moves (more than my wife likes) but I'm hoping as I add more walls and wall coverings that it will stiffen it up. This winter I am having a problem with my front door, seems the front middle post has heaved with the frost, I do have frost sleeves too.
Suggestions, keep the building low to the ground and maybe use steel beams for the floor structure this will allow the posts to be welded to the beams.
It was a lot of money and if I had known the outcome would have moved the building site and used concrete.
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 20 Jun 2014 11:01pm
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Posts are in. Techno did a good job. Engineering report are furnished and we are ready for beams
Techno Post 1
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Techno Post 2
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JJHess
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# Posted: 21 Jun 2014 10:55pm - Edited by: JJHess
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I'm kind of late to this thread but I'll still chime in. I'm a TMP dealer/installer in PA. I've installed many piles for cabins, including our own. Most of the time on anything over a 12x20 cabin we install our P5 piles for the corners and P3's for the intermediate. If budget allows, we prefer to use P5 for everything.
Link to my intro thread with pic of piles for our cabin.
http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/2_4604_0.html
As morock stated, lateral bracing is typically used for anything over 3' out of the ground but building height, lateral soil capacity and a few other factors play into this. I typically use a custom L bracket for this work so the bracket can be bolted to the side of the beam instead of screwed up from the bottom. The bracket is welded to the pile. That does wonders for lateral stability. Perimeter steel I beam is also a good idea.
Dekagoldwingers, you must be in Canada. None of the US dealers have the EM-1, the large machine. We use the small machine exclusively on our jobs. We have a creek-side job coming up where bedrock is down 6' and the cabin is out of the ground 6'. we'll use plenty of x bracing for that one. Keep us posted on the cabin progress.
Our next job is on a lake. A pier and floating dock. Not a bad summer project.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 22 Jun 2014 09:01am
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The comment on independent vs in-house engineering has me curious. Who typically does the engineering work on these? Is there a site visit? Just curious about the design work.
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JJHess
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# Posted: 22 Jun 2014 08:26pm
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Don
At Techno Metal Post HQ in Quebec there are 2 main engineers who know all the ins and outs of the product. They can recommend the proper pile, helix size, pile cap, ect based on the structure being supported. When I have a larger project to install piles for I send the plans to HQ and they calculate the loads on each pile, pile spacing, pile size, ect.
I currently work with an engineer in New York who will do any necessary design work and is licensed in most states we currently have dealers. He is an independent engineer (he does all types of structural engineering work) but most of the US dealers use him for the design & stamping work. He is also the engineer who stamps our installation Field Reports that we give to the building departments in place of the footing inspection.
It's tough to work with engineers who are not familiar with helical piles because they are such a specialty. I have engineers call me from time to time looking to do my engineering work but I don't feel comfortable working with someone new. It is a regional thing though. Some areas of the country/world are familiar with helicals so there are plenty of independent engineers to work with. Others, not so much.
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 1 Sep 2014 11:12pm - Edited by: Dekagoldwingers
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Posts went in the 1st week of June, beams late June, joists and insulation July, and then plywood floor. Walls started on August 3rd. Walls now up, windows in, trusses on and steel "Pro-lock" roof on. In September we plan to install doors and seal up gable ends for winter.
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 1 Sep 2014 11:20pm
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This photo shows trusses being delivered.
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 1 Sep 2014 11:21pm
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Does anyone know why my photo posts upside down?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 1 Sep 2014 11:27pm
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What was it taken with?
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 2 Sep 2014 12:07am
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Taken on iPad
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Frederic
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2022 10:04am - Edited by: Frederic
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Morock, thank you for sharing your experience. Why did you choose standard 5" post instead of galvanized? How is the un-galvanized holding up now that it has been over 8 years since installation? Did you paint the part that is above ground and also the cross bracing? Did you use any ring anode for cathodic corrosion protection?
The local Techno post dealer here in Canada claims that it will double the life of the post, while galvanizing will only ad about 7 years. By the way our cottage is 38' x 20' and we plan to use 14 P5 standard steel posts (with 18' helix and 15 x7' P5 post extensions budgeted for ) with P5 tops welded to seven 22' long metal I beam W10-39. The P5 tops will be attached only at the end of metal beam (so no piers to support the middle), since this is for a foundation repair. We did not want to have to tear down the middle of the floor that was done recently with expensive hard wood and tile. The price of the repair (includes metal beams, lifting the cottage to put the beam on top of the P5 posts and cross bracing, plus 4 P2 for the deck) is CAD $ 53 K with taxes total. These beams are available from a local company for CAD $ 63.25/foot, transport to the site and delivery is CAD $ 90 (all prices with taxes). Quoted price also includes ring anodes on each post and extension ($40 each ring anode with tax)
I had a quote for galvanized P3 posts (12' helix) for the building and P2 posts for the deck for less than CAD 25 K with taxes (no metal beam), but that required making holes in the middle of the cottage floors and sliding the posts under the current wood beams. I was concerned the metal posts may bent or that this cheaper system with 7' long posts may now allow to reach enough support capacity.
Attached a diagram that I did in Google Sketchup to show what I think it will look like
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