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optimistic
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2014 07:26pm
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I bought this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-46-in-x-30-in-Drain-Pan-with-PVC-Connector-26- Gauge-26DDP46X30/204168002
to be used as a shower base. Reasons are - fits perfectly, has side hole, and should we like the metal look...
I do need to increase the hole on it (currently 3/4"). Ideally, I want to make a hole and then connect this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chief-2-in-PVC-Shower-Drain-with-Strainer-828-2PK/20 2313205?keyword=728028
I want to have a nice clean cut. Any suggestions on how to do that without buying a $50 tool?
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PatrickH
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2014 07:58pm
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I would use a hole saw with a piece of wood on the backside
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2014 08:06pm
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Take out the fitting, clamp a piece of 3/8ths plywood top and bottom, drill a starting point, and cut a 2" circle.
However, that drain will leave a lot of water in the pan, unless you go out the bottom.
Tom
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sarndt
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2014 09:59pm
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Patricks suggestion is the same way I would do it.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2014 10:39pm
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Even if that drain is located in the bottom of the pan. It will sit 1/4" above the pan so all the water won't drain.
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Truecabin
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2014 11:42pm - Edited by: Truecabin
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you cant put that shower drain in the side of that pan
plug up the hole in the side and put your drain in the center or somewhere in the middle
you dont need a clean cut hole the flange on that drain will cover maybe a half inch of evil
if you must use a holesaw then screw 2 pcs of plywood together and the screws are inside the 2 inch diameter they will just come out with your plug
your first hole in sheetmetal with a 2" holesaw could be an adventure i dont know if you should learn on your 68$ drain pan you better get a test peice drilled first
if you want to be done fast just drill a circle of small holes and bust it out then use a file to make it as nice as you need or dont put any pics in the internet 
set that pan on a half inch lift all around the perimeter and use the threads in the middle to pull the drain down a little below grade
bldg said 1/4 inch above i dont think so maybe 1/32" the thickness of the drain flange
if you lift the perimeter for drainage i would pour something under it for support that will harden like a thinset cement you can do it ontop of plastic if you dont want thinset stuck on your floor
it might be better to lift the drain a half inch and the perimeter 1 inch
dont really want thinset to go to zero at the center
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optimistic
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 07:42am
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Thanks!
Quoting: Martian However, that drain will leave a lot of water in the pan, unless you go out the bottom.
Quoting: bldginsp Even if that drain is located in the bottom of the pan. It will sit 1/4" above the pan so all the water won't drain.
I was thinking to just put the pan on a piece of plywood
and then stick a small piece of wood under it so it is tilted toward the hole on the side. Will that make it better or will I still leave a lot of water in there?
Just trying to figure out just how bad will it be with a side drain vs. middle drain?
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 08:32am
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Since the parts involved are relatively cheap I'd suggest experimenting with it to see if what you end up with is what you are willing to accept in your shower. Send us photos. Good luck!
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Coastal
Member
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# Posted: 11 Jan 2014 05:06pm
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Quality tin snips will do the job. Trying to holesaw out something that already has a hole is a pain.
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tallpaul
Member
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2014 09:07am
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There should be a way to put a small recess where you want the drain to go in the bottom. The metal will stretch a bit and if you figure out the right size hole in a sheet of 1/4 or 3/8 below the area ya want the drain ya should be able to pound it down or press it into the metal then drill or plasma cut the hole in it....
as for the whole if ya are good with a torch- or a plasma cutter but watch the fumes from the galvanizing- or a hole saw should all work
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SE Ohio
Member
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2014 10:42am - Edited by: SE Ohio
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Per he tray specs, the pan is only 2.5" deep, so there will only be .25" of sheet metal above the enlarged side hole if centered. Might break out if the tray flexes some under load, but might not be a problem if fitting is well caulked?
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CabinBuilder
Admin
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2014 01:28pm
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The hole saw might work. Retail ones usually are not meant for metal but should cut through a thin sheet, I guess.
Carbide Tipped Hole Saw 1
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Carbide Tipped Hole Saw 2
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