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mattd
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# Posted: 24 Sep 2013 08:49pm
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I've been planning a gambrel, barn style, 2x4 truss roof for my 20x16 cabin, build here.
But My inlaws are tearing down a 25 year old deck that had 2x6 cedar boards for the floor and there are plenty that are still in good shape. Will the cedar boards be good enough structural members for the roof trusses?
Here is an image of one of the stamps on the board.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 24 Sep 2013 09:19pm
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Are your trusses for the 16' wide? What pitch? Are you going to build your own trusses or use rafter construction? Cedar is a weak wood, but given 50% more material, they should work.
Owen
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mattd
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# Posted: 24 Sep 2013 09:24pm - Edited by: mattd
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They are for the 16' width. The top slope is 1.5 to 4 and will span 4' on either side of the ridge line. the steep slope is going to be dropping 5' over 4' to the seat cut, and continuing another foot beyond the wall for a 9' span
Building my own on site
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 24 Sep 2013 10:11pm
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Western Cedar may not be as strong as Sruce, Pine and Fir but it is also not all that weak. Maybe a 25% decrease in bending and shear strengths. The grade stamp on it is an appearance grade stamp, not a structural stamp so it is difficult to say with certainty how it stacks up against the common construction lumber species. That commercial grade is the lesser, but mainly an appearance thing.
BUT, IMO, it would be a shame to waste cedar for something that will be hidden away under cover. Cedar shines when used outdoors where its natural decay and insect resistance comes to the forefront. That why it was used for that deck in the first place. I'd find a use where it can be used as it was meant to be used. Some belt sander work or maybe one of the special cleaners and brighteners could be used.
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mattd
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2013 09:07am
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Quoting: MtnDon that will be hidden away under cover.
that's another question....what's the point of insulating the ceiling if i have vents at each peak. if i wasnt insulating it then it would be exposed and be an interesting look.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2013 10:52am
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The insulation is to keep you warm down below the ceiling. The ventilation is to keep the space between ceiling and attic free of excess air borne moisture. Also helps keep living space cool in hot weather.
You can do a cathedral ceiling to expose the roof framing. Then you have to tackle the venting in different ways. Or maybe not vent. That is another topic and depends on your climate zone.
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mattd
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2013 11:29am
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yeah, this is going to be a glorified shed / hunting cabin. 20x16, with 8' of the 20' length split between a bedroom and kitchenette. loft above that. open ceiling. i sure thought i had to vent. but i dont? or how else would it be done?
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SE Ohio
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2013 11:43am
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Cedar might work well for a treehouse/deer blind, with the additional purpose of entertaining kids! I hope to add such a feature at my cabin.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 25 Sep 2013 01:02pm
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Quoting: mattd i sure thought i had to vent. but i dont?
Depends on the ceiling / roof design. In order to not vent the best way is to apply foam sheets on the roof sheathing before the final roofing. The costs are likely higher than you want to spend on a hunting shack. I would do it for a full time or even part time residence (if the part time use was more than 90 days for sure).
Otherwise try to make the rfaters/trusses as deep a section as possible to permit space between the roof sheathing and any insulation you want in the rafter bays.
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