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keljohnso
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2013 08:44am
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I'm looking at a shed kit offered at a discount building supplier locally. The 12 x 16 kit with a 3/12 pitch gable roof with double barn style door, $1200.
I want to make some changes to the original design and here's my plan...
First the building will be elevated about 3' on 6 X 6 post, 24" in the ground.
I will be adding lots of windows and a regular 36" door.
I will go with 5V tin roof instead of shingles.
I want to change the roof pitch to 15/12. If I'm figuring right that'll give me a loft with a 7' or so height in the middle and make the overall building height including crawlspace about 17' 6".
There will be a wall directly under the loft, one side bathroom (6' x 6'), one side kitchen (6' x 6").
I will also be adding a 8 X 16 deck with a roof to the front of the building.
I'm planning on using 2 x 4's for the rafters/trusses on 16" centers. The building will be in south central Virginia.
How's this sound so far? Any issues with the roof design?
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VTweekender
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2013 10:08am
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There would be zero reason the buy a "kit" then make these mods.....also the floor in that kit wouldn't cut it for what you want, you would need 2x10 joists on beams with 3/4" subflooring.
So in the end you would be buying 4 walls of 2x4 with probably less than desirable siding for $1200....yikes.
Figure what you need to do it right for lumber, get the saws out and strap on the toolbelt.
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keljohnso
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2013 11:18am
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Kit I guess isn't really correct. They have a plan with a materials list. I'm just using that as a starting point. The "kit" does include everything needed to build according to plan, including nails, door hardware.
The floor is 2x6 pressure treated 16" oc. with 3/4 OSB. The siding is primed 1st grade 3/8 OSB T-111. The framing lumber is #3 grade.
There is no up-charge in their "kit" price, its priced by materials. If I want to change to 2 x 10 joist,or #2 grade, I just pay the difference.
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VTweekender
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2013 12:59pm - Edited by: VTweekender
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It appears to me that you want a guideline on paper more than the kit.....as it is not what you want with all the mods you want to do......if I were you I would find a nice cabin plan that suites your needs and build from that......take a look over at http://www.easycabindesigns.com ......possibly something there that fits what you want.
Secondly, here is a free 10x16 plan you could print out and maybe draw something up from that http://www.smallshelters.com/freedwnload.html .
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redbeard
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# Posted: 1 Oct 2013 01:26pm
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Ive built several sheds and cabins using 2x6 joist and there all still standing. You can frame your roof on 16 centers with 2x4. New garden homes in my area are using this method. Look at my alabama budget build for the way I built my floor. good luck brother.
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keljohnso
Member
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# Posted: 2 Oct 2013 08:32am
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Thanks redbeard!
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keljohnso
Member
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# Posted: 2 Oct 2013 08:41am - Edited by: keljohnso
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So I want to elevate this building about 3 1/2' with the a deck about 3' off the ground. I'm using 2 X 6 joist with the 16' 4 X 4 skids, with a total of 8 legs.
I'm trying to decide between:
1) 6 X 6 treated post, 2' in ground, cut to height.
2) Precast concrete piers with 24" 4 X 4 for height.
3) 8" X 8" X 16" concrete blocks, 2 wide, 4 high, stacked to height.
I think option 2 work fine and be the cheapest and easiest to level. I'm just worried about using 24" 4 X 4 with that height.
Thoughts?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 2 Oct 2013 02:59pm
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Quoting: keljohnso ....worried about using 24" 4 X 4 with that height. Thoughts?
I am too....
Option 1. Piers with 3 1/2 feet above ground and only 2 feet in the ground is not good. What is going to keep those piers from tilting etc? The earth becomes very poor at restraining sideways movement of any kind when it gets wet. Put a cabin with a high roof on that and you have one heck of a lever arm acting on that 2 feet in the ground. The first 12" in the ground seldom offers any good lateral resistance even under the best of conditions.
Option2. Even worse than 1. The connection from concrete to 4x4 (or even a 6x6) is not strong when lateral forces are applied. It is somewhat akin to installing a hinge.
Option 3. Depends on the depth of footing. These are best if done in a square configuration; 2 blocks side by side in the first layer, then each subsequent layer turned 90 degrees.
The biggest potential problem with any kind of pier foundation is tieing them together to prevent one or more from developing lateral movement. Many piers I see are connected at the top end and then poorly braced against lateral forces. Combine water saturated earth with high winds or a slope and the result may not be good. Not all buildings on piers have problems develop but the higher the above ground distance is the more likely troubles are.
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redbeard
Member
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# Posted: 2 Oct 2013 08:46pm
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You could x brace the 4x4 with 2x4 all the way around, that would help with your concerns a little.
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redbeard
Member
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# Posted: 2 Oct 2013 11:32pm
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Look at handi-blocks as well
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keljohnso
Member
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# Posted: 3 Oct 2013 09:57am
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MtnDon
Thanks for the input. I have not tried digging on the property yet. It may be easier than I hope, if so I will go down deeper. The building will sit on a very wooded 3 acres that won't see a lot of high winds.
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keljohnso
Member
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# Posted: 3 Oct 2013 09:58am
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redbeard
Thats what I was thinking about, with cross braces.
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