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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 1 Sep 2013 09:40am
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I'm a big fan of T1-11 plywood siding. It has storm bracing built in and can be installed before raising a wall. Not everyone likes the look. It could be better. Log, half log, or even horizontal wood is very nice, maybe the best. My problem with it is dampness retention. Vertical grain sidings shed water better. A big overhang can help that.
I just got a request for board and batten. I didn't want to do it, but I did. I needed an OSB backing and the rough sawn 1x8's cost more than I would guess. I also thought board on board would look better than batten. It went on fast and looked good. I just might add it to my list for jobs in the future.
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Darenkcbiggar
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# Posted: 23 Feb 2014 10:37am
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Afternoon, just deciding on a way to re side my camp. Has old wide manufactured siding from 70's on it now. Board and batten I'm thinking, but like the board idea, what was the spacing between boards?
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 23 Feb 2014 12:44pm - Edited by: OwenChristensen
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The boards here were 8'' with a 6'' space between. I take it you're from Canada? When ever I build up there they call them camps. We mostly call ours shacks or cabins, all the same.
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TheCabinCalls
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# Posted: 24 Feb 2014 09:49am
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Owen couple of questions when you get the time.
1. I assume the boards are the same width. Do you nail the batten through the board behind or do you try to avoid hitting that so they don't split the edge.
2. Do you use a spacer block and installed the boards first or do you alternate as you go?
3. Do you install and trim out the windows first or after?
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 24 Feb 2014 02:25pm
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It's easier to trim out the windows first, although you could leave the desired set back to finish later.
We used a spacer block and installed the inside boards. This way you can reduce the spacing to make the corners come out even. We did this the old way and put the boards on green, and they dry in place. You should nail though both in the 1'' overlap. I had heard that the nails should be angled in, so when the boards shrink they will become straighter. that logic escapes me, as both boards are shrinking. It is necessary to have solid nailing for at least some of it. I had interior 2x4 blocks midway in the stud cavity as well as the floor stringers and top plates. For the nailing between, I just nailed though the two boards and 1/2'' OSB sheathing. If you want, and your stud cavity is open, you could clinch over nails that show on the inside.
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