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optimistic
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# Posted: 29 May 2013 09:38pm
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The frame was easy enough but the windows I got were not only flimsy but it didn't go in as planned at all. Had to stop, close the hole in the cabin, and re-group... Should have listened to ICC. But live and learn.
I ordered a couple of new construction, with fins and j channel, windows and they will be installed shortly - next weekend.
Only thing I still need to resolve- the cabin sheathing is this plywood that has some kind of pressure treated quarter inch wood siding glued to it. It is a one piece kind of product. Not sure what it is... Anyhow, the flashing tape I got didn't adhere to it and it also has grooves in it which make it a really impossible to seal....
Any advice on how to flash? I thought of maybe getting some pt 2x6 and installing it around the window - then flashing the tape on it so it sticks to it.... Any advise will help.
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johng
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# Posted: 29 May 2013 10:30pm - Edited by: johng
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Ideally the siding goes over the window nail fins.
Can you install from inside?
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PA_Bound
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# Posted: 30 May 2013 09:37am
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Opti... I didn't use any flashing tape under my windows. Maybe I should have (newbie mistake?), but I figured that since my windows were actually nailed to the frontside of the siding, as long as the caulk seals well I'm not sure how water would even get in under the window. Now I know that's a bit of a risk, but I think it's part-and-parcel of the risk of even installing windows this sub-optimal way.
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bukhntr
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# Posted: 30 May 2013 09:54pm
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If your nail fins are on the outside of the siding should still be ok. We have used 1x4 cedar around ours and let the top trim extend to the outside of the verticle pieces if that makes sense. Caulk the top trim piece with a heavy bead of caulk to get into the grooves of siding smooth with your finger both directions should fill it in, and a smaller bead around the rest,should be good. We have a similar siding and did the windows like that on purpose so if we had a broken or damaged window all you have to do is remove the trim pcs not the siding/sheathing. We have never had any moisture problems and I did the same on a shed about 12 years ago. May not be the correct way but worked for us.
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bukhntr
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# Posted: 30 May 2013 09:59pm
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Sorry another thought. I saw you had water coming under the window, they have drain holes that can get clogged causing water to back up on the bottom sill and flow inside. I have even seen some windows like an awning/casement vinyl window where you have to add your own depending on the way you install them. We had to do that to our awning window in the bathroom
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PA_Bound
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# Posted: 30 May 2013 10:07pm
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I installed my windows almost the exact same way as bukhntr- even down to 1x4 trim. The only difference was I used PT lumber for the trim, not cedar.
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optimistic
Member
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# Posted: 31 May 2013 02:13pm
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Thanks for the help!
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ICC
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# Posted: 8 Jun 2013 11:26pm
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glad you got things straightened away. all in all you will probably be fine if you use a good long life caulk under the fins. it's not ideal but about as good as you can do when starting with a prefabricated shed as a cabin. Don't bother with flexible flashing if it won't stick.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 9 Jun 2013 10:40pm
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Hey ICC.... I just got back from the land and both windows went right in. I kept thinking about what you wrote - "new construction windows install themselves"... Sure is true.
I now need to order two more windows and I am done. Also, OSI caulk is incredible. very very strong stuff.
Quick question - what is a brick mold profile window? http://www.lowes.com/pd_189753-206-151SL24240002_4294772369__?productId=3466346&Ns=p_ product_price|0#BVRRWidgetID
Can I use this window in my cabin?
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johng
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# Posted: 9 Jun 2013 11:00pm
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Quoting: optimistic what is a brick mold profile window?
All that means is that the exterior plastic mimics Brick moulding, as opposed to other windows with built in J-mould.
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