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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Installing direct vent propane furnace
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mojo43
Member
# Posted: 20 Apr 2013 19:15
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I have a couple of questions about installing the HWDV Housewarmer direct vent propane furnace (was recommended by small cabin forum users). I am starting the installation of this furnace tomorrow and I am wondering:

1) Does this install right on the wall. I have pine tongue and groove. Do I just install on that? If so, won't it get hot and potentially start a fire?

2) How close to I put insulation to the piping that vents the gas? Can I wrap the insulation around the pipe or is that a fire hazard?

Thanks for all your help and hopefully I can get an answer before I leave tomorrow

LakeSuperior5
Member
# Posted: 20 Apr 2013 20:51
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We installed ours on Sheetrock. If you are concerned attach Sheetrock over the pine. I would cut the Sheetrock to allow for a two inch boarder around the heater. As for the insulation, we used fiberglass tight to the piping.

johng
Member
# Posted: 20 Apr 2013 23:22
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I'm guessing you bought this second hand and didn't get an installation manual. If so you can go to the manufacturers website and download one.

bldginsp
Member
# Posted: 21 Apr 2013 10:35
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As Johng said, get the installation manual. The manufacturer and Underwriter's Laboratories (or other testing agency) have done specific testing on the unit to determine what the clearances to combustibles need to be.

The instructions will tell you if you can attach it to the wall or if you need a space behind. It probably won't tell you that you need to put a specific material behind, like sheetrock rather than wood. Sheetrock has combustible paper on the outside of it. Either the unit is designed to go against any materials or it has to be spaced a certain distance.

The installation manual will tell you what the clearance to any combustibles must be inside the wall from the flu. Be sure you have the correct flu that is designed for this unit. Direct vent flus have a double wall design, so the clearance to combustibles is usally only one inch.

I doubt the manual will let you wrap insulation around the flu, it should be held back by the clearance or more. I wouldn't worry about losing some insulation in the wall by holding the insulation back a good 6". Actually insulating the pipe itself could allow it to overheat, it's best to allow air space around any flu so it can cool.

If you really want to get insulation close to the flu you could use rock wool which is a non combustible mineral based insulation. I plan to use this within 12" of my woodstove flu through the roof, cause I don't want the rigid insulation anywhere near the flu.

A small direct vent like this is probably the least dangerous of fuel burning heaters, but still, you want to know what the manufacturer believed are the critical installation issues, and be sure you are using the right flu.

Last thing is to be sure the exhaust termination is far enough away from an openable window or eave vent that you won't be feeding the exhaust gases back in the building. These clearances are usually not very far, 24-36 inches.

I think this is your manual, but double check the model numbers to be sure this is the right one:

http://www.ecsretail.com/documents/HWDV/manual-HW-75-130-180-DV.pdf

All gas appliances scare me a bit, having seen hundreds. Installed correctly they are just fine, but it's so easy to do something wrong and make a lethal situation....

mojo43
Member
# Posted: 22 Apr 2013 06:55
Reply 


Thanks for all of the information. I had bought the furnace new, but it never mentioned what it was supposed to be installed on. Installing on pine made me nervous so I took LakeSuperior's advice and installed over sheet rock with a 2 inch border. I wrapped the exhaust piping with roxul (which is rock wool).

Although it made me nervous installing the heater, this part was really easy. The installation of the propane hookup will be done by a professional as I have no idea how to do this and I don't want to take a chance.

Thanks for all of the help!

mojo43
Member
# Posted: 22 Apr 2013 07:11
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Here is the furnace installed
9F6980F357644C06A.jpg
9F6980F357644C06A.jpg


KSalzwedel
Member
# Posted: 25 Apr 2013 01:58
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Looks good mojo

mojo43
Member
# Posted: 25 Apr 2013 08:11
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Thanks, I still have a lot to do!

KSalzwedel
Member
# Posted: 30 Apr 2013 01:58
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Have you used the furnace this season yet? Do you like it? I ak because the housewatmer is cheaper than toyo, but toyo has a good rep here.

mojo43
Member
# Posted: 30 Apr 2013 07:46
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I haven't installed the propane yet so I haven't tried it. It was recommended by a bunch of the people here. I am supposed to get the propane installed this week and I will try it out then.

Dillio187
Member
# Posted: 30 Apr 2013 20:18
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I have the same one, and it's worked great all winter. Just a tip to light it though, wrap the outlet in a plastic bag or two to eliminate the reverse draft.

mojo43
Member
# Posted: 30 Apr 2013 20:26
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Sorry, what can you elaborate Dillio187? What do you mean? what outlet?

Dillio187
Member
# Posted: 30 Apr 2013 22:23
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the exhaust vent. As you know, the exhaust is the inside tube, and the intake is the outer tube. I stuff a couple bags around the exhaust tube, and wrap another around the whole outlet until the pilot lights.

mojo43
Member
# Posted: 1 May 2013 06:49
Reply 


Ahhh, ok thanks for the explanation!

ICC
Member
# Posted: 1 May 2013 10:05
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Maybe it's the way the wind blows but we've never had a problem like that. Press and hold the knob on pilot for a count of 15 then hit the piezo button once or twice and she lights. Count off another 15 and then release and turn to temp setting desired. YMMV

Dillio187
Member
# Posted: 1 May 2013 15:53
Reply 


well, if you don't have the same issue, that's awesome because it's a bit of a pain in the....

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